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Appreciate that, yes I am hoping to work on it myself. I don't have experience working on car bodies, but I have done engine work before. I'm hoping whatever car I find is drivable, I only commute once a week for about 100 miles. I think to get the genuine 240 experience I'm going to try and stay with carburators.

I have a stash of the broken white plastic switches for these engine ights. I picked up a metal one at Frye's similar to the one you have shown and used that instead. I did take a little white paint and painted the lever part white just so it looks a bit like the original.

The description on the ad says, "•ORIGINAL A/C CAR, ALL THE PARTS ARE INCLUDED " Translation: Original A/C no longer works so it was removed. Plan on spending $1,000+ for a new A/C system and another $1,000+ to have it installed and charged. Budget, or make offer, accordingly. That said, keep looking. Dennis

Cliff beat me to it. What's missing in the description of the car is the most important item. Body condition, specifically RUST. Any visible rust is only 10% of what you'll find when it's opened up. The hood on this one appears to have rust bubbles on the nose of the hood. That's a particularly difficult spot to repair.

Buyer beware! Some very unsatisfied buyers. One star reviews from real people, 5 stars from one person; fake I'm sure. https://www.bbb.org/us/ca/glendale/profile/auto-brokers/vintage-car-collector-1216-762227/customer-reviews Take your time, the right one will find you. Kind of weird how that works but it does.

This is a perfect example of what I'm tempted to call Katayama Lore. The origin of the anecdote was Mr Koichi IWATA of Nissan Japan's Export Department, who accompanied the display of two cars (210-series Bluebirds) and a small pickup truck at the 1958 Los Angeles Imported Car Show. Mr IWATA reported that he drove at least one of the 210s around the Los Angeles area, and that it had struggled to keep up with traffic on the freeways. His conclusion was that it was almost dangerously underpowered for freeway on-ramps and inclines in comparison with larger-engined domestics. Of course, he reported this to his superiors in Japan. Mr KATAYAMA appears to have, and I'm being polite here..., inherited the anecdote as his own. Mr KATAYAMA arrived in the USA in 1960... No 4 cyl 'prototype' of the S30-series Z was sent to the USA.

I am certain that I read somewhere where they took a 4 cyl prototype out on the American interstates (speed limit 70-80 at the time?). Mr. K decided no way. It had to be a 6 to run on American interstates.

I doubt thr visual matters. Most just check emissions. For that matter, few people know what the original looks like.

I got mine when I was in HS and immediately pulled it apart. I would strongly suggest you don't do that. Keep projects manageable, and try to keep the car running and driving as much as possible. It is far easier to be motivated to work on a car that you can drive than one that you can't. How much metal work does it need? If it needs enough that it really needs to be blown apart to be fixed properly, I think I would just restore the rest of the car while keeping the car running, and then when it comes time to do the shell, you won't have a million things to do, and you can put it back together quickly when the work is done since the other components are already restored and simply need to be reinstalled.

@Patcon That's honestly great advice that I didn't think of. I was in such a rush to try to get it done I forgot to get it to a point I could actually enjoy it first. Thanks!

The switch is but a commonly available SPST toggle switch, easily replaceable unless you want to match the Nissan white plastic switch throw lever. This one is available form Amazon : about $4 Any autoparts store should have one.

Having started the tear everything apart and fix it thing ten years ago, I would strongly vote against that. Get the car running and all the details worked out the best you can and enjoy it. Then when you do the body work, the car can go right back together after paint and be off the road for the least amount of time.

Twice a year 30 minute wash. Thanks to prior owners for keeping this 71 almost rust free. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The simple way to test the pump power circuit is to disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid then turn the key to Start. The pump does not "turn on" when the key is on. Download the wiring diagram for your car and study it. Find the connectors for the pump power and clean them up. They might be corroded. There is a full test procedure for the relays in the FSM also, I believe. It also describes the other functions of the relay, if you're talking about the combined EFI/fuel pump relay. That one is not massive though, so not clear which one you're working with. Can you post a picture?

You went all out to save weight. Colin Chapman would be proud.

Thanks for the ideas on that I need to lube it up for sure. I got the latch adjusted and the gaps are starting to take shape now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have always used the same product as the Factory (asphalt-based undercoat) because: - It is an effective, durable, and workable undercoating that seldom separates from the substrate when properly prepped or painted. - It blends well when patching or expanding the coverage. - It maintains the look of originality. - Application is nearly foolproof; just wash and let dry as prep. Also cleans up with WD-40. - The good stuff is still cheap.

Hi Mike.....I think it’s great that you bring back these old posts.....always fun to see some of the early members.....keep em coming. Guy