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Then they shall be yours.

I love this site!

Mine weren't as bad as yours so I just removed the old bushing cups and made new ones. If you want to save that mount you're going to have to cut out that rusty hole and weld in some new plate then re drill the hole, I think it is about 8-9 gauge on that tension rod mount.

Thanks @Patcon! I'll try building the strut/spring in place for now. The milled area explains why it's so stuck.

The knuckles have a milled area that fits up into the bottom of the strut They can be really difficult to separate. There is also a small O-ring that goes in there to keep water out of that joint. If you are just replacing the strut insert, it can be done without removing the strut from the car. If you really want to separate them, then it will have to be driven down with some force, which is going to stress the ball joints or you could try to drive a painters 5-way in between the parts.

Drunk on a Sunday morning. USA women's big win and now IMSA's on.

It looks like the root of the problem is with the master cylinder - bleeders usually point outboard.

Nope not tacky or sticky when dry---works well for this.

Warty, sorry -- radio bracket is gone. I haven't done a good job keeping this post updated since they restructured the ads. siteunseen, thanks for the assist. Admins, this ad can be closed/deleted if so desired.

@240260280: Thanks for the idea, I'm going to try that. @Zup: If you were to do it again, would you go with the Plasti-Dip, or use something else? It's not "tacky" or anything when you are done? I've never used Plasti-Dip, so not familiar with how it feels. @26th-Z: if you send me your snail mail address, I'd be happy to drop a little chunk into the mail so you can see what it feels like.

I used the Roadster Factory jute and sprayed it with Plasti-Dip clear. No problems with dust or small fiber shedding and keeps the original look.

That is really strange, quite often when you empty the diff there will be be far less than a litre because over the years it splashes out of the plastic breather cap on the top of the cover but not being able to get that full litre in is pretty weird I think. The only way you are going to solve it is to unbolt the cover and have a look, The paper gaskets are cheap and still available but something like Permatex gasket maker work just as well. Hard to believe casting irregularities could take up half a litre of space. That's because you have that gorgeous finned cover with all the extra oil capacity.

I built my workbench over 30 years ago and put the deck height at 42" just to make work and tools a bit easier to get to. A few years ago I gave up some of the length to make room for a shelving unit. Of course this also reduced available space for tool storage, resulting in stuff stored in different spots around the garage. Further complicating things is that I keep three cars stored in a slightly oversized 2-car garage so floor space is already at a premium. I recently spotted a mobile workbench at Home Depot and took note of the dimensions. Checking under my bench I realized I fortuitously had the EXACT right sized opening for the unit. All I had to do was clear out and remove a shelf under the deck. The install took place yesterday, it looks like a custom install, and lots of tools now have a new and organized home!

Looking snazzy. I went with stainless black lug nuts. I also have the raw stainless, it's a hard choice.

There's a reason the fuses blow and the wipers come on by themselves. I would try and figure that out. I fixed my combo switch by just flipping those 2 plates and some cleaning. I have that on my laptop. I will post it tomorrow. Cliff The bumpers! They get a bad rap.

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short... I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site.... Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams... https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

The squeal goes away when you depress the clutch. Bad throw out bearing. Could be backwards or not pressed on correctly. My 280 whines because my dumb a s s pounded it on the collar myself. 240 is quiet. I paid my machinists $10 to press it on.