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Thanks for all the great replys. I drove 26th for years before I took her apart to restore. I consider her 'my car' and as such do not intend to restore her to stock because I intend to drive her. I have 27th to restore stock. That's the plan. Both cars are originally 907 racing green with tan interiors. They will be restored that way. 26th is going to get my competition 5 speed and some other nice period correct do-dads like headlight covers and Watanabe wheels. I'm toying with the idea of recreating the tan interior for 26th in leather. Something like what Len Welch did. So today I have a tale of two radiators. I had the radiator for 26th re-cored some time ago and it has been sitting on a shelf in storage. I took the radiator out of 27th to find it damaged and had it repaired last week. My, what has happened to the price of copper and brass! The radiator for 27th also needed a replacement bottom and before I knew it, the radiator for 26th had a new bottom pipe replaced. All painted and cleaned up. New overflow hoses and I have ordered repro decals for both from Banzai.

Kats, I finally took a picture of my clear hatch glass.

So paint is done and finally starting to put her back together.

I have the Float Sync, and think it works quite well. The way I use it is to lay a 14mm nut on the edge as shown and that gives me a great level indicator.

After: My lucky Day.. clear windshield early hood with no corner reinforcements early gauges early radio early mirror early alternator early hatch with vertical wires and vents (uncracked) one storage door grill in great shape Bumpers in great shape Side and window glass in great shape 2 sets of 4 screw carbs mostly uncracked plastic panels perfect center console perfect headliner and vinyl trim early 710 oil cap E31 head Notable items: Engine and transmission was swapped no differential lots of rust steering wheel was swapped seats were recovered COIL OVERS! Pulling off flatbed distorted rear but the bumper is fine... whew THIS IS A BIG PICTURE!

Hi Chris. Glad to hear your plans for 26th and 27th are finally back on track. As you may know, I had reproduced, along with others, the red mastervac decals being sold by Motorsport and Banzai. More recently I have made the earlier ‘69-‘70 mastervac decal, also very nice and yet to be offered for sale. let me know if they would be of interest to you. the second photo is an original decal, the first, my reproduction. Colors, not well illustrated in the photos, are very accurate. Dan

During the trip to my mother’s home , I dropped at Mr. Kawashima ‘s factory to help his work for another ZG which has been purchased recently by my colleague , senior 787 captain. His ZG is almost identical to my ZG , he also loves stock . So as much as possible, he want his car to be original. I helped the restoration of its 8 track system and , auto antenna . The antenna mast was broken like most of the car . Mr.Kawashima did a great job . He snapped of the tip then drilled a hole to be re- connected to the top rod . Also he drilled out the old remaining plastic from the top mast end , then he connected the plastic wire with the end by JB weld and punched it. Please see the video , I hope this can help someone who has a broken antenna mast . Kats

Today I arrived home from 1800km round trip in four days . I took my ZG for this journey, I must say “ ZG is the best partner for grand touring . If you have a properly tuned L24 with G-Nose , you would not want to have one more camshaft , nor one more carburetor. ? A fuel consumption is way better than Z432 . This time my ZG scored 13km per litter (30 mile per gallon ) when doing 100km/h (60m/h ) Highway driving . Quiet , stable , and powerful. My non-restored ZG still can go anytime anywhere . Hub caps stick to the wheels always ! Kats PS : I have a question , is this cigarette lighter cooperated with an illumination also equipped for export models after Sep 1971 ? Fairlady 240ZL / 240ZG and Z432 have the illuminated lighter .

Tsunamis on the other hand... There's an old Japanese proverb which translates along the lines of "Too many oarsmen will row the boat up a mountain."

And it even has the cast aluminum HURST shifter that we made so many of in grade 8 metal work!

I have been encouraged to start a build thread about my restoration of HLS30U-00026 so here goes. I started many, many years ago, as most of you know, and got sidelined during the depression in 2008 which lasted for me until 2014 or so. Although I managed to carry on with my involvement in the Z community over the past decade, the cars have been pretty much sitting in storage and very little work has been done. Then about a year ago, I got back into it and started sorting through my stuff, creating little projects and slowly stepping back into the restoration. A month ago, I talked to the guy who is doing all the paint and body work for Steve / Twin Cam Sportscars. Steve's business / shop is right around the corner from my shop and I have known Steve forever. You may recall that Twin Cam Sportscars helped with the restoration of Classic Motorsports magazine's Lotus Elan that appeared at Amelia Island. I started the work on the chassis years ago with another body shop that associated with Twin Cam, "Beautiful Bodies", but he went out of business during the depression. Now its Kim / After Hours Racing who agreed to take on the partially completed chassis. And here is where we are today...

Some interesting ones below thanks to data and images from @kats @HS30-H @Mike B @Carl Beck & @26th-Z and anyone I missed (BIG THANKS!) May 1969 - total 2 cars - one domestic, one export: 1 = S30-00001 (Factory prototype 1) 2 = HLS30-00001 (Factory prototype 2) June 1969 - total 1 car - domestic: 3 = PS30-00001 (Factory prototype 3) July 1969 - total 4 cars - two domestic, two export: 4 = HLS30-00002 (Primary Production prototype 1) 5 = S30-00002 (Primary Production prototype 2) 6 = PS30-00002 (Primary Production prototype 3) 7 = HS30-00001 (Primary Production prototype 4) August 1969 - total 7 cars: 8 = S30-00003 (Primary Production prototype 5) 9 = S30-00004 (Primary Production prototype 6) 10 = S30-00005 (Primary Production prototype 7) 11 = PS30-00003 (Primary Production prototype ? 12 = HLS30-00003 (Primary Production prototype 9) 13 = S30-00006 (Primary Production prototype 10) 14 = PS30-00004 (Primary Production prototype 11) October 10 Two 240z test cars and parts arrive in North America in crates - HLS30-00004 (Silver Manual Mfg:09-69) Seisan Shisaku: #14 - HLS30-00005 (Silver Automatic Mfg:09-69) Seisan Shisaku: #15 < October 22 Three 240z demo/photo/show cars arrive in North America - HLS30-00006 (Green) - HLS30-00007 (Silver) - HLS30-00008 (Red) Oct 17 Press Presentation Ginza HQ, Tokyo Oct 20 First Ad in Japanese Paper (432) Oct 22 NYC International Preview Pierre Hotel (and press kit release HLS30-00006 Green) Oct 24 16th Tokyo Motor Show Oct 24 Wilshire Motor Show Preview LA Oct 27 Calif Competition Press and Autoweek Article on the new 240z with photo of Test car Oct 30 Boston Motor Show Oct ?? HLS30-00013 & HS30-00003 produced Nov ?? 432 Race Track Testing Suzuka Circuit Nov 25 Japan Test Drive for Journalists near Mt. Fuji Nov 25 ARRC Daytona Speedway 240z (red HLS30-00007) Dec 20 Refined Z's Shipped by plane to North America (following Seisan Shisaku road testing feedback and export production slow down to resolve) Early Z Production car Early Z Photos Early Z Advertising and Promotion Early Z Brochure Press Show in Japan Tokyo Motor Show Boston Car Show ARRC with Early Promo Z in Public Press Test Drive in Japan Early Z Coverage in Magazines Manufacturing Testing in North America

If your wife gets mad at you for spending countless hours looking at the site linked below, it is NOT my fault. You just have no self control. Found this while looking for something else (we've all been there, and then SQUIRREL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) https://archive.petersen.org/pages/home.php All of the photos do have a "P" watermark on it, but some amazing pictures taken back in the day... For those who don't know or can't remember (like me), Petersen Publishing created the magazines of Hot Rod, Car Craft and the like... If you click on a photo, there is an option to request a copy. Not sure of what costs are involved with that, I confess. Enjoy

This car looks to be too far gone to restore IMHO. Does not have its original matching-numbers engine (L26). The seller is being very honest when he states that the car is "Extremely rusty and needs a total restoration" However, it could be a good parts car for someone who has a '69 production 240Z or a 1/70 build and needs the clear rear hatch glass, early hood, etc (assuming that at least some of the 1/70 240Zs had these parts). Here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264351203157?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true&autorefresh=true

Easy peasy! Great find on a parts car - I'm seriously jealous.

I'll have to do the @jfa.series1 spook repair ?

I took the advice and bought some banjo fittings and used 5mm clear pipe ...

Past inspections today now its good for another 2 years.

Good advice above, However, I'm not a fan of pulling spark plugs from a hot aluminum head. I've done it many times successfully but I hate the feel of the plug coming out. @jalexquijano Have you pulled the plugs lately and compared #1,2,3 with 4,5,6 and how many turns down are you running on the mixture screws? Both the same? Deja Vu!

My 9-70 had the early style hood. No corner reinforcements... just a tab and no side drain holes

The only two reasons for switching to electric fans (IMO) are increased cooling at low or no speed and a slight horsepower gain. I think you're on the right track suspecting plugs. Especially because you said the problem went away after a quick Italian tune-up. What RPMs did it begin to misfire? Normal for fouled plugs is around 3500 and above. Is your engine still overheating in traffic jams? If so, I'd look into the electric fans. In extreme cases (hot weather and long waits) I just turned the engine off and when I did get moving slowly I kept the RPMs as low as I could. Fewer RPMs equals less heat generated. That said, I never had any percolation or vapor lock problems that would have prevented it from starting right away.

Actually, I believe that Bugs Bunny used to say "What a Maroon" - but I digress....

Sweet Wheee (Mark), thanks for the comment!! Would love to see pics of them when you can send them..... Essentially we have 40yrs of technology difference between the 370z and 240z.... but being gated they both put smiles on our faces!!!!! Take care... Mark

Awesome! I also have a Black Rose (Cherry in the US) 2010 370Z and a soon to be completed Dark Green S30! Cool!

You guys in Japan are very cool!

I'm more than ready to learn something new. That's the buzz. And every day is a school day with these cars, isn't it? What I don't get is people being happy to accept anecdotal evidence (from 1973 or something...) trumping primary-source evidence. That primary-source evidence isn't mine, it's Nissan's. We need to be open-minded and pragmatic about this kind of stuff, and we all know that Nissan juggled suppliers to give us endless fun trying to make sense of it 50 years down the line, but I want to see evidence to back up a claim like that. School me! I want to see a photo of one of these sooper dooper Hitachi batteries in an S30-series Z body in 1969/1970.

I especially enjoyed the battery conversation, Alan. You, young lad, evidently don't remember the Normandy landings! So consider that the Hitachi expert went searching in junk yards for a replacement battery. As Bugs Bunny used to say; "What a buffoon".

The TTT lower control arms are awesome. They allowed me to adjust the toe, camber and track width of the rear wheels. When I first mounted the wheels, they seemed to sit too far forward in the wells. I moved the spacers to the front of the arms, and the wheels moved back into the centre of the wells. In order to tuck the wheels in under the fenders, I widened the track setting and pushed the wheels out at the bottom. This also created the right amount of camber I needed. Front and rear adjustments also provide all the toe adjustments you need. Very impressed.

As has been pointed out before now, comments on BaT auctions are pre-moderated so there are already hurdles to jump before they get thrown in front of the lions for the 'discussion'. How many 'not constructive' flags does it take for a comment to be deleted? Seems to me that its only a handful, so its easy to make it happen even if the comment is on-topic, correct and constructive. Quite a lot of scope there for sharp practice from all sides and a small cadre - or even an individual with several BaT log-ins - can make them evaporate. In fact the whole format is weird. Biggest comments spammer in this car's case was the winning bidder. I'd be interested to hear who your "self proclaimed experts" are. Would they be the type of people who claim that the car in question would have arrived from Japan with a Hitachi battery, and that Yuasa batteries were not supplied until at least 1973? Or are they the people who pointed out that the hood/bonnet is not necessarily correct for the production date of the car, or that the factory blacking of the radiator support panel has not been replicated? Is that "baiting", or fair comment? Plenty of life left in this horse, I'd say.

Hi Kats, They both look 'period correct' to me, but I find it's often hard to give 100% positive identification on such parts because they tended to supersede the design quite quickly and there could be several versions. Added to which - as you have noted - privateer users tended to have their own theories and experience, and would modify to their own specifications. And then there were copies, and copies of copies. Yours look trustworthy and correct to me. As a reference point, here's a photo of some genuine Works team S20 cam sprockets which were used in period. Complicated!

Got the parking brakes adjusted. The Silvermine cable is a little longer than stock so I had to adjust the linkage a bit. Connected the rear brake lines and bolted the calipers down. Adjusted the rear camber settings on the top of the CX Racing coil overs to let the big meaty 225/60R16 tire’s get under the wells. Still needs a little adjusting but the Techno Toy Tuning rear lower control arms are phenomenal for adjustments! Next up is the front brake lines and some small adjustments there before I drop the car on the ground. I’ll probably fill the diff while it’s still in the air too.

Finally the whole chassis was sprayed in a continuous primer. I started to place the sound deadening "tar mat" sections, but didn't like the material and that's about the time that the economy fell on it's ear and my income went to hell.

Nothing but Gated Garaged Vehicles !!! The thrill of driving stick always puts a huge grin on my face .... 1973 240z (Viper Dark Green Pearl), 2005 Ferrari F430 (Rubino Micalizzato-Burgundy Pearl), 2002 Ferrari F360 (Rossa Corsa-Red), 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (Red), 2010 370z (Black Cherry).

What he said. Don't mess with the AFM until you have exhausted all other options. But speaking of such things... I just finished my handy-dandy patent pending AFM adjustment tool. No more risk of SPROING-ing my spring anymore! Looks like this: And here's how it's used. The tip fits in the little hole and the tool gear meshes with the AFM gear and allows controllable adjustment without worrying about losing control. I wasn't there when they calibrated the AFMs at the factory, but I suspect they used something like this:

I'm sorry for not having this sooner, I was a little late waking up this morning. I went through my re build file and found this number on a receipt, Nissan #14039-W1500. I'm almost positive that's the smaller ones on my head studs in the middle because I bought 10, the other 2 are the big ones posted above. And the anti-seize isn't a must so don't sweat it if you already have them in, it was recommended in a book I went by to prevent corrosion and rust in the future. Did you put the longer threads on the stud in the head? I'm asking because I have about a 1/4" of threads above the nuts on mine but I put the short end in the head.