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I posted mine because Mecum is a good place to swipe Japanese cars. I think the people there are primarily interested in American cars. I paid $13,750 for that car two weeks ago. I’m not an expert in these cars, but I think I stole it.

Had a noise in my ZX tranny in the 73, so I decided to install the one that Eiji rebuilt for me. I’m also taking out the Exedy Stage I performance clutch (too strong for my use) and installing an Exedy stock 240 mm clutch. If anyone wants the clutch and disc (240 mm) for $200.00 plus shipping, it’s theirs (I paid $475.00 and only has 1500 easy miles). Wow, a transmission jack makes it so much easier.....of course the lift does too ?

For what it’s worth... to anyone replacing their S30 power antenna, and wishes to use the factory wiring all the way back to the rear fender, here is what I’ve found. If you are using the replacement Harada MX-1 or MX-2; they come with a toggle switch with bridged red and green wires at the diagonal top and bottom corner posts and single black and single red leads off the middle posts. Our factory wiring has three leads from the radio harness (to the original antenna toggle switch and running back to the antenna power). The solid blue is connected to the single red wire (fuse box/ignition switch 12v power) black to body ground. The blue/white stripe is connected to the bridged red lead and the blue/red stripe goes to bridged green lead. This makes the new antenna powered up, down and hold position via toggle. Check the orientation of the toggle unit before mounting (dash, console etc.) to verify “up” toggle is toward top of switch. Just flip 180 if it’s inverted. Thanks for all responses!

The car originally had a type 1 FRP airdam. I decided I wanted a stock valance and possibly add the Euro style front spoiler. It was a last minute decision so I purchased one off EBay. Had it straightened and painted only to find out that the center section was the wrong one. I believe this is the 73 and up with shorter brackets..I then purchased a brand new re-pop, which are really super nice quality BTW and mocked it up to make sure it’s going to properly fit.

Thank you for the replies, no, I did not do any adjustments it was running fine last saturday in the cold. Reptoid Overlords- If you tighten that screw all the way it just stalls. Update on the status- I went through the Nissan service manual and narrowed it down to the bearings in the distributor. I took the distributor appart, some of the bearings for the vacuum had fallen out, so the vacuum wasn't working properly.

Hi Mike.....Mike Maginnis at Banzai has a guy that will stamp it just like the original. I bought the plate from Mike and he got the engraver to stamp it for me....didn’t cost that much either.....looks great. Guy

I like the way you think Charles, just wish I had thought of it first?

I will be detailing the process of mounting the Silvermine kit onto the AZC rotors in a seperate thread.

If you assume that that is the purpose then you need to be sure it's filled to the top. If it's halfway, you''ll still rust-bind the top of the tube. Maybe KYB uses better paint that doesn't break down and let the shock body rust. Are the people at KYB ignorant? A thin coat of anti-seize might serve the same purpose. The instructions should be more thorough. Let's see what KONI has to say. @KONI Lee What is the purpose of the "fluid"? What is the best fluid for the purpose?

Back for a few days for Easter. Received the Silvermine kit and did a test mock-up. Looks like we have a workable solution.

I love my Bendpak......

Dig around on the web for input on this. Engravers have been making indexing fixtures for this sort of thing forever. With a little creativity, I'm sure you can come up with a way to index either the stamp or the target less than the width of the punch shank.

Actually I don't like all the links in the OP's post. Links to a whole bunch of auction sites and pics nabbed from copart. Just joined. One and only one post. And hasn't even responded to all the input from other members about his original post. I'd like the OP to participate in the discussion he started and convince us that he isn't a spammer or a bot.

Who is selling that repop front valance? I have never seen that offered before, BTW the car is really coming along, great work. Now you will need a friend to drive the silver Z when you go to shows.

I was completely shocked by an ebay seller lately that was selling the black plastic insert (called by Nissan as an escutcheon) behind the door handle. This seller was asking $130 for 1 right and $130 for 1 left. The part number was shown in the ad, so I went to NissanPartsDeal.com and searched for the part number. The site showed that it was available for $5.58 each for either right or left. Apparently, this part was being made again. Also MSA was selling for more reasonable $8.18. Also, I found the window crank available for $28.97 each plus shipping which MSA was selling at a reasonable $38.87 I wonder where we can find more parts number to search for?

Nissan got a lot of use from the picture of the red Z. I think this non-factory banner is based on a dealership brochure/hand out. To those with a better Hoover, please correct me if I'm in error. Dennis

I rescind my advice, and concede with the experts here on the forum. I humbly offer this opinion though. The ones without oil that I have run across, are rusted inside the tube. The opening at the gland nut, is in no way water tight. I would put some type of oil (or grease) in there, enough to fully cover the body of the strut but not spill out (50ml, 230cc, or 229cc or 233cc or 49.8 ml), no way to be exact. Some stays in the coffee pot when you tip it. I am sure you will find a suitable answer and proceed with the upgrade.

@KONI Lee should know. I'd say it doesn't matter. Maybe he knows why the instructions show 50 mL of mystery fluid poured from a coffee pot.