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Tempting, but I am currently space constrained. I am semi-seriously looking for a car barn. That would make me dangerous I think.

How many of you have damaged or peeling chrome off of plastic parts? A good example is the bezel around your tail lights, maybe some badging or interior parts. Well, I was looking the chrome trim on my door panels (I just purchased a set of used door cards) wondering if the chrome plated plastic strips could be repaired and when researching the interweb I stumbled on this product by a company name ALSA. The make brush-able and spray can chrome. I was very skeptical until looking at all the video of people using this product. Looks pretty amazing. When I looked into sending my tail light bezels to be re-chromed they wanted around $150 per light (yikes). Anyway has anyone ever tried this stuff? I might buy a little and test it out and then try on my door cards. https://alsacorp.com

I had a thought a little while ago. As these cars get more and more scarce and the values increase rougher cars become more viable project candidates. This isn't totally analogous but I was speaking to a restoration guy who was doing a 63' stingray. He told me the car came out of a junk yard and when he got it you could stick your arm between the roof and the door frame with the door shut. The owner was going to plow 150k plus into that car. I agree though. When I see significant rust near the door data plate, that makes me nervous

BTW Racing green with a butterscotch interior rules!

Oh, that dog just ain't gonna hunt! You are not going to find a series one with " something less than a quarter million miles". Or, you're going to pay dearly for a restored example. I have been wondering what all the obsession over mileage is all about. Yea, the dealer's a schmuck. So what! You can't just take someone's word and buy a car from the pictures. Well, you can; just look at how I bought 27th. As Beck put it; "How much worse could it be?" I would encourage looking at the car and dealing with the dealer. Point out all the non-original pieces and get him off his 'all original' spiel. We could make a list of all the stuff that is a replacement and not "correct". And the serial # is not that low. Hell, you know a guy who has 26 and 27! If it turns out to be a good running, soild car, it's probably worth the $20 grand. Offer cash and be prepared to turn and walk.

This won't last long. HLS30-361620 11/76

I see now. Craigslist has a weird search engine. Most of them will find a word buried within another word. Like 280Z is in 280ZX. CL doesn't do that. It finds 280ZX though. @Mark Maras is around here. But I know you're joking...

Horns are rebuilt. I used gasket maker instead of the paper seal. Now time to remove all the original tape from the front wiring harness and redo it.

Major Correction. Along with poor light, and old eyes, we can add an old brain. The inside measurement is 11/16". The difference is 1/16". Although I couldn't feel a ridge there must be about 1/32" of smush in the holes on the face side.

It is but it’s taken a while to get there...I’ll have it running in the next month or so....I’ll paint it next winter. no 6 pack for me...way to hard to get tuned in right....a new 6.4 hemi was my initial plan but I’d rather spend the $$ on a zcar..I’ve always wanted one since I was a kid...

Here is the damaged 4 cylinder version (no centre caps) / solid spoke. Like the other 2 I have already. So even if I got it, I'd still be 1 short of a complete set! https://photos.app.goo.gl/J7UHEXSJWeUtz6r66 You can see the chipped centre hub / area and hairline crack on the outer rim. It is now living a peace life of retirement as someone's garden hose reel. I'm unsure if I should push the previous owner for his friends details to try and rescue it from retirement or not. What do you think? Magnesium wheel repair is tricky.

Hi Kats, I have 3 wheels in total, I got them from someone who bought second hand performance parts from Nissan (in the rally scene) back in the 90s. Originally there was another "wide" version also. 2 wide 2 narrow, but 1 of those had a crack and he decided to find out what a magnesium fire looked like and put 1 of the wheels on a bon fire. Sad I know, but he had no idea what these wheels really were and had stored them for years as a curiosity more than anything else. I got them off him for a very reasonable price and couldn't believe my luck to be honest. Not only that, but someone else had another 1 in the town / region of Ballarat (narrow version like the photo you attached) and was willing to sell it to me cheap ($100) but I found it difficult to get out that way to collect (seller wouldn't post) and in the end he gave it to a friend to use as a hose reel! *Sigh*. Same person sold a good set to 1 of the only Z432 owners in Australia not long ago. (Think he got them for a steal!) I will try and find photos of that car. The left over wheels was however also damaged / cracked and Alan wasn't sure how easy it could be repaired when I sent him photos. I will dig out pics again if I can. Alan informed me the narrow wheel was likely used on 4 cylinder rally cars that competed in the Southern Cross rally (perhaps the Datsun Violet SSS rally cars?) Which came through in the period, but the wide version was definitely left over from the works rally S30z's. I would love to use these wheels at some point, but not sure what to do about the odd pairing. Worst case scenario they will become garage ornaments, perhaps my Ikeda Bussan seats with look good next to them on display? (Currently out of the car for now)...The S30z enthusiasts will know what they represent. Reproductions can never match the originals.

762 isn't all that low but it's a bonified early car with that rare, OMG rare, gas door knob. This picture is the hallmark of provenance. The description says that the engine is "sized". What does that mean? Re-bore oversize or seized? I think you would have to buy this for half the asking price to make a restoration work $. The rear quarters are going to be expensive. Door, floors, front fenders... I would leave the CB antenna on the roof. Ha! Provnance! Love the back-up light.

Hi Gavin , I now found you have a wheel which is like Z432 type , but different off set , and non - center cap type . And is it taper nut type ? And it is not the same the one on the front of the 1971 Montecarlo Rally car . Alan , could you tell us how many types there were for the works rally car . The gold is Gavin’s wheel The gray is mine And two old pictures from Nissan Craft Magazine “Fairlady Z “ . Kats

Hmmmm.... That car is a great example of one that I would need to see in person before I bought it.

In some cultures, how much you paid is viewed as a bragging right (a form of phallus waving so to speak). :). The thing that makes those Kobe Seiko wheels look unoriginal, is how pristine they are.. The originals often have a few gouges, marks, scuffs and battle scars. My collection for reference. https://photos.app.goo.gl/W2vyzLeEmcyrCq0T2

Extremely rare part, Side Marker retainer - 26182-OET1B

I found it with my "datsun" search, you have to be creative. The sellers are!!?

Might last longer than you think. You can only find it if you leave the "0" out. 28Z. https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/cornelius-1977-datsun-28z-classic/6792668176.html

If I were the buyer , I would disassemble the S20 engine. I need to see it is rebuilt correctly with correct parts . The seller said it is rebuilt already, but looking at neither non restored nor non replaced bolts and nuts on the engine block , I would be suspicious about the rebuilding quality. Even if the bolts and nuts was shining, and not informed who is the rebuilder, I would disassemble the engine. Kats

HA! I love it! Speed limit sign too.

So the 432 "project" sold for ~$64K USD. It seemed like a fair price.

I noted that the other 432 in the auction was fitted with the same reproduction KS 'Rally Mag' wheels too. Personally speaking, I don't think this kind of high profile 'showbiz' type auction is suited to the automotive world in Japan. When you buy one of these cars, everyone knows what you have paid. That's not a good thing for many Japanese enthusiasts. In my experience, they would usually prefer to keep that information away from their wife/family/work colleagues/friends...

100% reproduction. Not original.

This section has no aftermarket parts available. You will need to fabricate the section between the front rail and floor pan rails.

Managed to get all the seals replaced, pretty easy for me to get the screws out and everything went smoothly. Thanks again!

All answers are here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

They easier to catch when they use a walker! Making them tricycle motors.

I have a three bedroom house that I rent out and I live in the garage apartment in the back.

So after reading the schematic, trying to make heads or tails, I finally figured out how to make the power antenna work like factory with an after market stereo installation. Hopefully the back of your (new) radio has an "antenna control" wire included. This antenna control wire should be butt spliced into the (factory) green wire that goes into the factory radio. On my 82 NA car it was on a 4pin plug that had only 3 pins used. Next, the (factory) antenna control 4pin plug with only 3 pins, "Blue"," Blue and Red", "Blue and White" that is connected the antenna button for short range or long range (skinny switch with an antenna symbol). The "Blue" and "Blue and Red" need to be spliced together and secured with your favorite method. I pulled the pins from the plug and soldered them together then wrapped tightly with electrical tape around the factory wire bundle. This will allow the radio on/off button to raise and lower the power antenna, or when you turn your car on/off with the radio on, the antenna will raise and lower as well. Enjoy.

Correct (S30 type) emblem on left. Incorrect (S130 type) emblem on right. The 432 going to auction has the incorrect, flatter profile (and plastic...) S130 type bonnet emblem.