Leaderboard

The car is clean, waxed, tires shined. I’ll be leaving before sun up. No radio just me, a car and a tunnel of headlights. My favorite time to drive. It’s so peaceful, but not lonesome. Self reflective. Looking within. With young kids these drives are nearly nonexistent. I have everything set out. A camera, phone charger, selvedge jeans, my New Balance driving shoes, a journal, an actual Safari Rally silk jacket (from 1982?), some pens(filled with ink of course), my corral pass, and the list goes on. The car is a ritual. Yours Truly, Ben

Installed new chrome center trim on a set of Z tail lights......

Hi , nice work!! And it is a great source for you in the US . In Japan, Skyline Ken - Merry GTR master vac is usable for 6 inch vac , internal parts are only usable, not usable the outer case . And it was still available at 2013 . I now am asking local Nissan if it is still available new . https://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/power_planning/56600650.html Kats

I wanted to find out how many of you are going to be attending the Monterey Historics this weekend. I am going to be there on Saturday and Sunday and I would love to meet some fellow Z enthusiasts from the forum. I am bringing my Z and with Nissan as the Marque they are celebrating it's going to be heaven. Ben

I oil them up as much as possible. Squeeze it to one side and try to work it out a little at a time. Ehen they look like yours it maybe a lost cause.

if all else fails, the part can probably be cobbled from sheet metal (24 gauge sounds about right). Trace a pattern, drill the holes for the roller, bend to shape, trial fit. Make some dimples in the fold-over to help provide some bite on the door flange (the OE part has pressed-out teeth, IIRC). Precision to +/- 0.001" is not required. Nor is concours appearance. When you're happy with the fit, temper the metal to give it some springiness. Remove the roller, heat to red-hot with a torch, and then quench in water or (preferably) oil. Prime and paint, or zinc-dip, or zinc plate before re-installing.

Classic racing Days at Mantorp Motorpark. I was the only Datsun....as usual. Lots of fun.

I have an airtex 8012s pushing 3.2 psi and after setting my floats works perfectly. Thanks to the advice of my friends here at the forum.

Bummer about cracking the bakelite disk. I would have been with you on using JBweld to seal up the small holes, but I'm not sure I would try to repair the rest of that damage. I'm thinking a replacement would be prudent. And I'm sorry that it's too late, but here's how I got my stuck retainer clip out. Couple small rare earth magnets. Very strong for their size: And this is what my poppet valve plunger looked like when it first came out. Looks just like yours: As for disassembly of the poppet valve assy... The end piece is crimped into place and is not meant to be disassembled. You can see the dents of deformed material that hold the end on. The only reason I even knew it was possible to take it apart was that I had bought a rebuilt booster and it was clear by the marks on the valve that it had been disassembled and subsequently reassembled. I don't have any pics of the "rebuilt" one, but you could see that they had "repeened" the dents that held it together. Of course, the workmanship there was suspect... It looked like they whacked it with a center punch a couple times around the circle. But the point is... They were doing it, and I figured I might try it on my spare valve. Had nothing to lose. So I cobbled together a "fixture" from cut-offs and shorts and whatever chunks of metal I had laying around: And put it on the hydraulic press to push the end off the valve shaft: Here's what it looks like when it comes apart: If I was going to be doing more of these, I'd build a better fixture for taking them apart, but since I wasn't even sure it would work, I spent very little time on it. It came apart easier than expected. Might even be a small enough force that you could cobble up a "puller" using a large C-clamp instead of using the hydraulic press. And for the reassembly, I would try to recreate the original dimples, but I won't move to that part until I get the seal from you.

Your photo is a great illustration of how (and why) these parts failed in regular, daily-driver service... 5 years of driving x 1 drive/day x 1 up-down cycle/drive = 7000+ flexes through those two narrow webs of spring steel. Add additional cycles for further use by new owners over some/all of the next 35 years. 'S-N-A-P'! A junkyard piece may have already exhausted a good part of its useful life, so if you're planning on keeping your car and using it a lot, it might be a good idea to grab a spare for the driver's side door.

@kats Thank you for investigating. This is the equivalent of about US$400. When compared with the current price for a rebuilt unit -(US$200), that seems a reasonable price for a comparable-design, new-old-stock Nissan part. As you note, however, only the internal parts are useful for the owner of an S30. If you have the time, would you please ask your Nissan parts source whether either of the original re-build kits for the S30 MasterVac are perhaps still available? They are: KIT-A REPAIR FOR MAS - 47210-E4625 KIT-B REPAIR FOR MAS - 47210-E4626 (includes Kit 'A', plus the plunger, check valve, and filter-silencers) According to the manual, these kits were designed for use only with S30's produced up to Aug. 1971. There is only a small possibility, I know, but I think worth investigating.

Problem solved:

Oh , Nissan said 47210-R5511 still available!! 42200 JPY without tax . It is weird that Ken-Merry GTR was sold only 197 ? cars , but Nissan is still selling it for the car . We have to push Nissan making more parts for our S30s which are still enjoyed so many people around the world !! Or, powerful GTR owner’s club boss threatened Nissan to make it , ha ha . Kats Also , Prince Craft in Nagano Japan

usually available @ https://zcardepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=window+roller&cat= however showing out of stock currently - I purchased a couple about a month ago when I was rebuilding my doors / adding sound proofing.

Light spring steel sounds right. I replaced my broken pieces with a used one. But I think I've seen NOS parts out on the interweb. Maybe some place like ZCarDepot even.

I would source another if I could. As I recall they are almost like spring steel and I am afraid even if you could weld it, that it would fatigue and break beside the new weld. Also you might melt the wheel unless it was removed first. You could always give it a shot if you have a welder just for giggles

Big wheels keep on turning Carry me home to see my kin Singing songs about the south-land I miss 'ole' 'bamy once again and I think it's a sin Well I heard Mister Young sing about her Well I heard ole Neil put her down Well, I hope Neil Young will remember A southern man don't need him around anyhow Sweet home Alabama Where the skies are so blue Sweet home Alabama Lord, I'm coming home to you In Birmingham they love the Gov'nor, boo-hoo-hoo Now we all did what we could do Now Watergate does not bother me Does your conscience bother you, tell the truth Sweet home Alabama Where the skies are so blue Sweet home Alabama Lord, I'm coming home to you, here I come Now Muscle Shoals has got the Swampers And they've… RIP Ed King My mothers family all from bama i watched the 69 moon shot from a little shack in bama . In 74 government put my father in Maxwell fed prison i remember this song getting in cab at airport going for a visit.

Ok so I may a little progress disassembling the booster but I also damaged it some So I was tring to get the piston keeper out. Banging it on the counter, pressing on the piston and not. Wasn't coming out, so I soaked it in undiluted Muriatic over night. The keeper was much cleaner but still not coming out. The keeper side and the reverse side So I didn't want to break the disc banging on it so I drilled some holes in it so I could punch it out Now this will create four holes that I will have to seal up. I will probably use JB weld Keeper is out. Even after soaking in acid over night there was still a lot of rust. If I had left it longer it might have come out then But I damaged the disc My punch had a flair on it and when I drove the keeper out the flaired section cracked off the flange. More JB weld. shouldn't be a big deal because it just needs to seal. No real pressure there on the flange Now I need to figure out how to break this plunger down. Can't figure it out even from CO's picture Worked on my booster tool some too Made the metal plate and welded on a lever arm and a piece of 2 1/2" PVC conduit about 6" long to help squeeze the can

I bought that bolt kit for my rebuild. It's labeled and individual packing made it a breeze putting things back together. I will say some of the bolts are too long and bottom out so be careful when torquing. I remember the oil pump bolts specifically. The manifold studs have allen wrench fittings on the ends for a good tight install. keep your old bolts for comparison and use anti seize to smooth out the new stainless threads. They are a bit course compared to the OE bolts.

Got my meds .

Hi , thank you spitz 17 , this is an old thread , I want to put something about the stitching at the seat bottom. My Z432 has the vertical stitching as you can see , I must say it is not the original. The seat bottom must be repaired at some point in the past . I looked the vinyl closely, and found it is different from the other side . Today I visited Mr . Sudo , he is a real craftsman of upholstery for S30 . He said my Z432 ‘s stitching is not original, he has been dedicated doing the job more than 30 years , he knows what is original. I placed an order to him for a set of my early seats three years ago , he said I will be the final customer for his S30 seats restoration, he has been saying when the vinyl runs out , he quit the restoration for S30 . He has sufficient amount of vinyl for GTR , so he his work continuously being made , but not in a hurry. I am waiting it’s completion, he already made some pieces, I can’t wait to see it . He of course knows about the difference of early and late model , he uses various kind of tools for each model. if you are the upholstery guy , you can tell how he make the seats nicely and there are numerous his experiences fully applied. He said he would be the only man who was successfully able to access to the original vinyl manufacturer other than Nissan . He managed to make the manufacture to find out the original mold and make it useable , then the manufacturer accepted his order , some length of roll (maybe 100 meters ? ) , he did it a long time ago , he said he was not sure he would be doing right thing or not . Soon after the cooperation with the manufacturer, the manufacturer was merged by a big company , then unable to make the vinyl again . I said he did it right for us ! Kats

Maybe @katscould do some checking for a source in Japan?