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And the winner is... Heli-coil! I practiced with a piece of 1/4" steel plate. It held well. I used one of the good captive nuts and striker plate to center the bad one in the hole. I drilled out the hole with a 1/4" bit, tapped it carefully, and ran the M6 Heli-coil in. I ended up having to change out the door lock and striker plate, but I did finally get a good latch. Thank you, all, for posting solutions and opinions. It helped guide my research and come up with a workable solution.

Hey guys, As you can see in the title, I purchased my first S30 this afternoon from the original owner’s mother. It is a silver 1974 260z. VIN RLS30-035938 with Build Date 5/74. It has rust in the usual places, but starts, idles, and drives. This is my first resto project, and I am excited... I paid $600, and couldn’t be more proud. What details can you gather from my VIN and Build date, as far as production #s, options, etc? PS, I know the 260 is the black sheep, and to some, the least desirable... so if you are going to be negative, I don’t need your opinion. I bought this to restore with my son, not to send to auction. Can’t wait to hear from you guys, THANKS!

I keep hearing "they will be safer than humans" as one of the reasons for development, lets face it the reason for self driving (as well as driver assist like braking and lane warnings) is for one reason and one reason only. MORE SMART PHONE TIME. that's it the only reason. if safety was a factor, smart phones would be disabled anytime they are moving more that 3 mph. I don't understand the addiction they possess but clearly must be more than opiates base on the extreme limits people are willing to go to get more facebook time.

If it was mine, I would clean the rusty ones with brake cleaner and run them. If it doesn't shimmy on braking, the pads will make them nice and shiny soon. If it does, then turn them or replace them as Site said...

I thought the brick was used for ROAD RAGE back in the 70's

Thank You! Captain Obvious has gotten me trained with his mantra, "pictures or it didn't happen".

ZCON 2017 Austin, TX The Unibody Bomber

Good Man SITE!

She made eye contact with the driver and he waved his hand for her to cross....NOT. It was hacked by a mad man in Austin and re-programmed to run people over.... MAYBE Companies like Facebook, Google, Microsoft, Apple, Samsung, etc. can not make bug free software for the $^!# they have been selling for years so how do we expect them to make new bug free $^!# that they have no experience with....YES THAT IS WHY THIS HAPPENED.

I definitely think this thread should be preserved given the lack of replacement parts. I found a moustache bar on eBay (kinda rusty and perished bushings) for $50 with shipping. The 2-part rubber compound is about $30 with shipping, so It's temping to spend a little cash and do some mad scientist experiments. The bushings on mine seem OK, so if I mount the bar on my workbench and use a 6' long pipe as a lever, I can determine how many pounds it takes to deflect the bar 12", then do the same with a set of urethane bushings, and finally with the 2-part compound. It might not be the most accurate method but at least it'll give me a baseline. My beer budget will be impacted, but science is important, right?

I got info. Lots! Of course most of it is completely useless, but I got lots of it!! Happy to share!

Maybe that part of the documentation was instructions on how to dispose of the old struts? Drill a small hole to release the pressure first, and then chuck them. I hate the international "icon only" based instructions. I wonder if they make sense to people in other parts of the world, because they certainly don't make sense to me at this part of the globe.

@jalexquijano I agree with Cliff. Raise the fuel level in the rear carb to the same level as the front carb. Reset the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns, check to be sure that fuel isn't pooling on top of the nozzles and drive it. When the engine is warm, if the engine seems like it lacks power under acceleration, SLOWLY pull the choke while accelerating. If the fuel mixture was too lean, adding choke will richen up the mixture and you'll feel the performance boost under acceleration. If adding a little choke improves performance, drop the mixture screws 1/2 turn and try it again. @siteunseen Tick tock, tick tock! Time keeps on slip'n, slip'n, slip'n, into the future. Fly like an eagle.

eBay says that neither ID has items for sale now. Wouldn't be surprised if Patcon was right. Frank is only a few miles away from Al. Easy to believe that they know each other and the methods seem very similar. Paint over and hide the defects, jack up the price. Conspiracy to to commit wire fraud is a pretty serious offense. Maybe somebody can get two jail birds with one stone. https://www.justice.gov/usam/criminal-resource-manual-965-conspiracy-violate-mail-fraud-or-wire-fraud-statutes

bitte schön

Thanks for this, I'll check it. I did go through all the EGR equipment as much of it had been removed by the PO and the car barely ran at all back then. But I don't remember checking that, so I'll make sure. I did notice I have tiny exhaust leak from cyl #6 where the manifold bolts up to the head, the last bolt is missing; so i need to fix that but I don't feel like it's the cause of this current condition.

Between the tears and the sniffles I certainly do..... Have sent you a PM....

Buy the one from Arizona Z Car and it comes with caps and reservoirs for $129. I have one from them and it arrived perfect.

This happened to my '77 so I always mention it but so far it hasn't been a problem for anybody else but... Where the EGR tube connects, under the intake manifold closest to the firewall on the driver's side, there's a clip that came out and that same tube comes off the hot exhaust. After some years mine rotted the aluminum out and caused a huge vacuum leak that wasn't visible until I did the "yogurt cup test" for vacuum leaks and then used a mirror to look under there. I found it and had to replace my intake. Here's some pictures that kind of show what I'm talking about. The mirror picture was to show someone the bolts for the heat shield but you get the idea. Hopefully you won't have the same problem but it's worth a look.

Isn't that for high RPM carb adjustment?

Me too.. I wouldn't worry about that. Maybe hit it with some 600 grit to make sure there aren't any burrs kicked up from the scratching, but other than that, I'd go ahead and leave it.

I'd reuse it.

Perfect! Sounds like me. I'd much rather be up to my elbows in anything mechanical or electrical than anything to do with bodywork!

Welcome to the Forum. There are a lot of years of knowledge here. I would read as much as possible and never be afraid to ask a question. As far as your car being a black sheep and undesirable??? A car that was in production for only 1 year (here in the US) is not non-collectible in my book. Great job and good buy imho. Clay

Love that EQ and the speakers on the transmission tunnel. Never seen that before.

The great news is ... it has no sunroof. Looks like you got a good deal.

You mean you're not supposed to store car parts in your home?????? Don't tell my wife that!

HUH ?? In europe you buy a set of wheels for that.. and they are ugly ones!!! PIC's !!!! wanna see that parts car!! (kidding!!) good luck! and welcome here..

Someone paid some dollars! If you need tuning advice contact David Premo. http://tuning4performance.com/

Did it stay at the scene of the accident and call 911?