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These guys have had a youtube channel for some time and will be starting a new show on the Velocity Channel soon. A pleasant surprize to see them review a 240Z. Enjoy.

zKars, you are "The Man" when it comes to "giving up" your parts for club members..... you do over and over again.I'm proud to be on the back of Morton's car with you....Good job! Guy

Then.........after lots of work and $$$$$$. See what you have to look forward to

Well, If your "parts warehouse" is out of stock I just happen to have said parts from a 77' that I'm willing to let go. The faceplate has a crack but I believe it to be repairable. The lens is in good shape. I can send you a pic later if you want to see. I'm leaving for a Scout meeting soon and there are couple of big storms starting to come through.

Sounds just like Edmonton!

Is this good enough Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

love the 9. item, so true.

I'm probably wrong but it looks like the very early just AM radio with the built in antenna switch.

I got a good deal on a 2 owner matching numbers car that is complete and very minimal rust. The only downside is the automatic. My plan is to restore to factory condition, but I'd like to swap for the manual. Plenty of resources online about doing that, but.... I want to understand the impact on the value. If I put a factory 4 SPD that is year correct is that as good as it being an original manual car? Does it matter to the value? Would I even need to mention it was swapped to a manual or is at as good as original? I'm sure if I jump to a 5 SPD it's no longer 'original' but what does that do to the value? Lastly, leaving it auto, would I be above or below the manual conversion values? Thanks! Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

FLASH NEWS: Michael, my neighbor the car paint pro, came over to look at a rust spot rearing it's nasty head up on RedBird. I intended to photo the process of him working on it, but in the experience of watching and learning, I forgot. This spot is along the edge of the left qtr. panel, where the hood closes. Mostly out of sight, but now was making an appearance on the top, not only on the side edge. Michael did his magic (his every day work) on the spot making a temporary fix. Explaining it will need further intense work on it soon as I can, as it is too far gone for a quick fix at this time. I'm so happy at having this man right next door, but wished that the diagnoses was better. Blah! He then went all over RB painting the simple road stone strikes, and similar. So she is as good as she can be for now. Maybe we will be able to squeeze out a few car shows this summer, before the rust spot gets worse. Again he had much praise about the total condition of her. Saying "for a daily driver, her engine is clean. I've not seen one that clean without the normal stuff done to it to make it look good. You can tell she was cared for". So, yayyy, I'll be off to Chattanooga Saturday to meet with our members, and others. Looks like a fun day ahead! P. S. Added an older photo of the rust spot just to show where it is at.

From my brief experience with blasting, I found it was more than just from the car....

I second that. Strip it first. Tent the car in poly in a garage if you can and recycle the blast media through a filter to save money and waste. I used copper slag (black grit) and it worked great. Don't blast any sheet metal like doors or roof etc. Leave that for sanding or chemical stripping. Then be prepared to blow grit out of the car from places you didn't know you had for months...

You're going to end up with sand in places where you don't want it. You should strip the car down before you blast. What media are you using? Looks like beach sand. That doesn't work very well. I used aluminum oxide. From what I can see (other than the gas cap area) the car doesn't look awful. I guess you need to ask yourself what your thresholds are for pain and money. It's gonna take both.

I've been chasing a fuel starvation myself at WOT. It showed up before my engine swap, but I was able to make the carburetors richer to compensate. Now that I have a 2.8 with higher compression, I have the SUs as rich as I can reasonably make them. My fuel pressure is low, though. You may want to check fuel pressure to verify whether or not that could be contributing to your problem.

Hang in there. Many of us probably have seen worse.

Are you finding much bondo?

Hi jdbrocious, nice car you found ! I love my automatic 240Z , if my car had a trouble of it's function, I would have had replaced it to stick shift. Hopefully it works pretty good, no disappointment. One thing aout a clutch pedal stopper, this will be needed if someone wants to make it perfect conversion. Original is welded to the firewall , so the job will be little hustle . And a radiator has two connecting pipes at the bottom for oil cooling of the transmission, this is another point for perfection. You have decided to stay auto, so this is just a little information for someone. Kats

It snowed yesterday as I took the race car back to the garage but the good news is that we are now 5 sets away from 2,000 frame rails sold. Whoever ends up buying the 2,000th set, and anything else purchased along with them, will get a complete refund.

Couple pics of the hatch area. Dark spots are just dirt. Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

What the heck is wrong with these folks, I would think you would have to pay 750 to have that one hauled away.

Merci pour l'option canadien.... mais pour qu'oi est-ce qu'il n'y'a pas de rabais pour vos frère quebecois??? Franchement, je suis Anglais mais j'ai etudé en quebec....!

Hi. No, not at all :-) - conceived for the line to be no longer than the floor strengthening 'bars' and to tuck up neat under the rear suspension crossmember with a rear muffler sitting discreetly behind the rear lower-fender.

Nice! I was messing with shop lights a couple months ago as well. I got tired of replacing 13W fluorescent bulb in my typical shop light, so I took it apart and modified it to use a 60W equivalent LED bulb instead of the 13W flourescent. Then I decided that I could stuff TWO of the 60W LED bulbs in there. Took a shoehorn and some creativity, but I got them both in. No more "blink - blink - blink - ON" of the fluorescent ballast. It's instant on, full bright even in sub-zero temps, and it's now like holding the illumination brightness of the SUN in your hand. AND it even runs cooler than the 13W fluorescent! I've got something like 1660 lumens of awesome warm while illumination POWER on the end of a cord!!