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I'm probably the youngest one on this to be restoring a Z at 20yrs old. It has been my dream to own one. Nonetheless i am humbled to be around people who know so much. I will continue with updates on her restoration but i will also ask for help for i don't know everything. Thanks [emoji1591] Space_cowboy '74 260z

@siteunseen I have corrected one of the meme's you posted... there was something missing. Cheers, Mike

Here is a source for fuel compatible hose that has an original black cloth wrapped look that comes in 6mm and 8mm sizes, as well as others. They have also have JIS fasteners that look interesting as well. http://www.newcoproducts.com/new/cohline/hoses.html

The subject car is a '72 model year that was built in 10/71. So with that in mind, it's going to have the '72-'73 condole, the Hitachi AM/FM radio, etc. Early '72 models that were built from 9/71 through 12/71 also didn't have the retractable seats belts and the seat belt light/alarm. A lot of these early '72 models also had the vertical defogger lines in the rear hatch glass.

I just went up in the attic of my garage and realized that I need to take a week of so and reorganize my Z parts. I took these photos and this is just a scratch on the surface of my hoarding. The NOS parts are put away in containers, at least they are somewhat organized. Maybe it is ebay time.......again.

An Alabama pastor said to his congregation, "Someone in this congregation has spread a rumour that I belong to the Ku Klux Klan. This is a horrible lie and one which a Christian community cannot tolerate. I am embarrassed and do not intend to accept this. Now, I want the party who said this to stand and ask forgiveness from God and this Christian family." No one moved. The preacher continued, "Do you have the nerve to face me and admit this is a falsehood? Remember, you will be forgiven and in your heart you will feel glory. Now stand and confess your transgression." Again, all was quiet. Then, slowly, a drop-dead gorgeous blonde with a body that would stop a runaway train rose from the third pew. Her head was bowed and her voice quivered as she spoke, "Reverend, there has been a terrible misunderstanding. I never said you were a member of the Ku Klux Klan. I simply told a couple of my friends that you were a wizard under the sheets." The preacher fell to his knees, his wife fainted, and the congregation roared. Life is short. Smile while you still have teeth.

I've got no shame. Very much pride in my Z.

Spent the morning with my good friend Eiji Hosomi (Datsun Spirit) today. I'm going to get his help building my new stroker motor , since I'm plowing new territory and want to make sure everything is right.....and no one knows right better than Eiji when it comes to L motors! Here are the specs he gave me: 89mm bore, 83mm stroke (diesel crank), 90.5 mm x 1.29 mm gasket, .4mm above deck, 44cc head volume (I'm using my shaved P79 head) and 4cc piston volume....this should give approximately 10.6 to 1 compression ratio. He's using light forged pistons and rods and my head will have my Isky .490 lift Stage III camshaft. He wanted to go .560 lift, but if this doesn't float the boat, we can always throw on one of his famous N42 modified chamber wonder heads.....I'll think this will be enough juice for me though. Here's some pics I took at Eiji's shop. Guy

I love that you are so blatantly honest Cliff.....the rest of us screw up all the time, we just don't admit it!!! You've got no pride.....I'd love to have a beer with you sometime....Hell maybe 5 or 6! Guy.

I used a 24" pipe wrench on mine and a crescent wrench on the square at the end of the threads. Laid it on the floor and stood on the handle, my bench vise wasn't working. It was lifting my my work bench. I had turned it the wrong way until it was too tight. Now I know one's reversed threaded.

I'd ask $800 and see how it goes.

I bet that is quiet compared to the the oscillator unit. I hear it anytime I'm in the garage. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

A 240 and a jug of these!

Now that is pretty funny!

Found another one today. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Okay another option. Get in touch with a good local upholstery shop. I had the same question about recovering my seats or going with some Kameari seats. Besides the cost to fit the Kameari's their was still a question of if it would fit in the car correctly AND if I would fit in to the seats! Lots to gamble on for over a 2000 dollar investment. I chose to redo the OEM seats, but took it up a notch. I skipped the factory vinyl kits and bought a synthetic leather seat. I also decided to buy brand new foam while I was at it so the seats would ultra comfy. I asked the shop who made the covers to put in extra vents in the seat back. This was my compromise to keeping it OEM fitment and look but with some added JDM touring car seat looks. I told myself I would not embellish the headrest, but I could not resist. As a bonus you get to custom request the stitching of the seat and logo. I requested silver just like my car. Here is a pic inside the car. If you want a more deep bucket you can ask the shop to modify the foam installation to suit you. This is where experts come in and for a very reasonable amount of money, I had these seats redone to my liking. All in I think I spent 850 dollars on covers, foam and shop labor.

The vin# of my 72 is HLS30 93606. There is a thread somewhere on this site that speaks to the loose way these cars were titled. Your 9/72 titled as a 73 and my 9/72 being titled as a 72. I am sure that this 71 could have been titled either as a 71 or 72, it just happens to have been titled as a 71. That and other nuances about these cars is part of the history and mystique. JLP

My 73 has also production date 9/72...vin 124355... and my car has all these changes, that's why I was surprised to see them in a 1971 production car... It seems that these changes applied in 71

Nice looking car!

Saved it for you.

Some day I should probably make an instructional video for people to use their meters to diagnose Z electrical systems. There are still plenty of opportunities for tech tips.

Help is available!

I sympathize with you JLP. I ended up converting an entire room to parts storage. Kind of a Datsun parts man cave, complete with a wood stove.

I could use one of those nice series III consoles?????

Hoard away!!!! It's a hard decision. If you sell something, you'll need it. I have a shed full of stuff, garage, tent, etc. I have a buddy locally that I've told if I croak for some reason that my wife will contact him to sell off the parts. I'd turn over in my grave if they just threw out the LSD rear ends!

The Timesert kit came in, I think it will do the trick if not I'll re make it in steel. Drilled and counter bored, re threaded, cleaned and ready for the inserts, Little dap of Loctite on the outside threads, I ordered the 16mm long inserts so I could use the full thickness of the flange.

Projects like this are great opportunities to learn new skills. Because the knowledge has immediate impact. You've mentioned "more power" at least a couple of times, but there is not "more power" available. It's just the 12.6 volts from the battery. It's basic direct current electrical stuff. You shouldn't really be looking for a better place to make a connection. You should make the proper ones work right. Giving good descriptions of what you're doing will help a lot also. "Turning the key" doesn't tell much because there are three positions to turn to - Acc, Run or On, and Start. We don't know which you turned it to. If you start using your meter to measure voltages you'll start to understand sources and grounds better. Start at the battery by connecting the positive lead to the battery positive terminal then placing the negative lead on various body and engine parts. You'll see how grounding works. And the two tests mentioned for testing the relay are very simple and should be done. Remove the solenoid wire and turn the key to Start with all of the proper wiring connected properly, and open the AFM vane with the key at On. Both of those should supply power to the pump. If you start connecting various wires to other circuits just to get power you'll end up creating more problems. It might be that you have a problem with the wiring and a weak pump, both. But you should be able to separate the two issues. Click the Fiddling with Z Cars link at the bottom of SteveJ's posts and go to the Electrical category. He has some basics in there.

So another project during this off season was to do something better with my brake booster. I took both the newly purchased "rebuilt" unit, and my old failed original boosters apart and reassembled one unit using the best parts from the two, plus a couple new parts I made to replace some rusty bits. Here's the final unit. Reassembled, painted, and ready to put back in the car: Some of the internal parts were really crappy, so I made some stainless replacements. I used stainless steel for everything with the exception of the threaded output shaft tip. I reused the original tip because it's hardened and I didn't feel like dealing with the heat treating. Besides, it doesn't ride against the vacuum seal, so even if it's not perfect, it doesn't affect operation. Here's what I made: Here's a pic of the smooth stainless output shaft sticking through the vacuum seal. This has GOT to seal better than the rusty crusty versions I had from both the boosters. My idle will thank me: As a bonus... My PO had painted the booster that came with the car, and I found the original sticker hiding under a thick coat of paint. Thankfully the paint didn't stick too well to the plastic sticker, and I was able to chip most of it off. It's not perfect, but it looks "appropriate" for the rest of the car. I haven't put it back on yet. Anyone have a good reference pic showing the location of where the sticker should go?

Jerry, are the fuel hoses you have ordered wrapped with braided cloth? Or are they more like this picture (fuel rail to front carb)? Some of the fuel hoses on my series 1 car look like the one in this pictured here , when you look close they have a cloth wrapped (not braided) texture that seams to be rubberized as well. They don't have the glossy smooth finish like modern hoses.

Thanks, that is a great site! Ive been following it for a few weeks now. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I wouldn't accept the car if given to me for the mere fact that both air cleaner wingnuts are not in the 3 and 9 o'clock position