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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2017 in all areas
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4 pointsWe're almost done building our new garage and barn. On Saturday we moved 12 cars and 4 trailers. The #00 white w/red race car is my friends. I still have to buy or build shelving and move all of my parts. At some point I'll have to sell some cars so I move in 4 more cars. Chuck
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Exedy 6009 is what I bought too, good clutch kits.2 points
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The Exedy kit is a very good oem replacement clutch. I have used them on two z cars without issue. Amazon is a great source for it. https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-06009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5D7TE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487631287&sr=1-1&keywords=exedy+clutch+280z Her flywheel will definitely need to be resurfaced, if the labor price she was quoted holds, she might get away with about $4002 points -
1 pointperfect 240z imported from the states in 2007 for sale fia registered as an antique vehicle always garaged no rust anywhere rear disk conversion and tripple webbers http://my.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MyEbay&gbh=1&CurrentPage=MyeBayAllSelling&ssPageName=STRK:ME:LNLK:MESX
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Is it sure that the distributor is the 280Z unit? I can't tell from just looking at the cap in the picture, but the idle speed screw is ZX style so it looks like somebody stuck a complete engine in. Could be a ZX distributor. And they have their own set of problems, with loose bushings, broken reluctor magnet rings, and modules that experience sudden death. Which it is changes the thought processes. Would be worthwhile to take a close look at it. Look for the "black box" on the side of the unit. Here's a picture from atl Z. And a link showing the problems and parts. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
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Steve - as it turns out, we have a member in Denton (school and work!) that might be just the right guy. Time permitting, he's on this forum. I'll contact him to see if he can make some time. Jim1 point -
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What an amazing coincidence. Just last weekend I was leaving the car show at night and when I turned on my lights, I had no dash lights or running lights. Me thinks it I have a combo switch issue, as I cannot get any voltage to come back from the green and white wire back to the car. Headlights work, but they get constant power I think. Blinkers work, and flashers work. But no dash lights. I sent both my stalks to Dave the man Irwin. However playing with my turn signal, I noticed why my blinkers would never reset after I turned the wheel. The factory grease had hardened like syrup. I sprayed them off with WD40 and whala, the little spring activated plates got nice and snappy again. Dave will finish the job I am sure. My car was a 7/71. Never had an electrical issue with the car in 9 years. This is my first. This is one time I am glad my car has not been chopped to hell by a previous owner. Originality works in your favor here.1 point -
1 pointDidn't see that in any of the threads I read, but makes 100% sense. CHEMISTRY! Im confident the acetone got it all, though. It came out clear the second time and I gave it another one to be sure.1 point -
1 pointGood info. Thanks. I did my 78 with muratic acid and clean water. I didn't have the flash problem but on the 75 tank I need to do I will remember this.1 point -
Here is a photo of the kit I had from Datsun Comp Department. The perch's were welded on higher up. I did measure but can no longer recall the amount. I did talk to D. Roberts at Datsun Comp and he said the perch was made higher for race tire clearance as I recall.
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Nice detective work. I've heard of the pickup coils dying and actually have a bad one in the garage. That's a simple meter test. He could also trigger a spark through the coil discharge wire, and watch it with his timing light, by grounding the negative post quickly (tapping to ground with a lead wire) with the key on. Make and break. At least he'd know that the coil can produce a spark and the path to the discharge wire is intact. Just need to get through the basics before suggesting a ZX distributor or HEI module.1 point
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Yea, I'm in the Gas Station equipment business so this was right up my alley... I want the internal combustion engine to hang on strong for at least 10 more years to get me into retirement....LOL
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1 pointYou missed a very important step. Rinse the tank with a gallon or two of water mixed with a lb. box of baking soda. No flash rust. I agree on the por-15, it's a waste of money, red kote does fine for the inside. That por 15 looks great on the outside though, great job. 8^) The soda neutralizes the acid.1 point
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Absolutely Mark.......good advise.....Not only that, I'll bet if you start with number 6, chances are it's the problem. The large water jacket outlet there seems to tunnel over to the cylinder in a number of cases. Regardless, I'd like to hear back from toneatron83-280z to see if he's tried any of our suggestions. Hard to give further advise if we don't hear back1 point -
1 pointI'm sorry for not reading all the post but what makes you think you need a new clutch? I've worn them so bad they wouldn't make it out of the driveway. If it's hard to get in gear it may be the slave cylinder is not extending with the proper force. Maybe just air in the line or a bad slave cylinder? If it's slipping is it persistent or when you first leave out? Maybe a little oil leaking down on it? What sucks is the only way to know if it's worn is measure the depth around the rivets on the friction disc and it has to be taken out to do that. These cars are great when they're right! but bad when they aren't. Best wishes for you and Redbird, Cliff.1 point
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1 pointI Buy mine at amazon.com. find the cheapest with the most stars. For me I decided on Exedy kit for $100. Read what's included, some are cheaper because the throw out bearing is sold separately and the bronze shaft bearing too. My machinist charged me $40 to resurface my flywheel. It was blue from getting too hot. Yours may not need it but you won't know until you see it. I know money's tight but changing the transmission fluid at the same time is good. It only holds a couple of quarts I think.1 point
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1 pointYou may be running low float levels and the bowls are slow to fill. Soft foot and you can get to 100mph.1 point
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I got a complete set of 240 struts that I want to believe were shorter but had not been cut and welded, from a now retired racer along with a pile of other parts. Two of the shocks are stuck in the tubes and I had put them aside as I had no immediate need for them. Now I'm interested enough to take another look at them.1 point -
I might have a set (F/R) of the comp struts. If you can post the measurements I will check them when I get back home.1 point
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Alan, thanks you for the valuable information. As I stated there is a wealth of collective information on this site. I have the original set of race strut tubes for the rear. I will measure the height of the platforms and compare to stock rears on car. Now the issue is that the rears I have are hydraulic type. I am at a crossroad in this project, I will not cut on my original tubes so I would have to have a set of tubes for all 4 corners get the correct dimensions for the placement of the platforms and have them modified. I want it period correct and thus do not want to install adjustable platforms. This is obviously not a project that will be done for Z Attack, maybe s project for next winter. Does anyone have the specifications for the original Datsun Competition Strut tubes platform location?1 point -
I have these wheels with 205-50-15's, car has 1" lowering springs, no clearance issues
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Source: http://motor.geocities.jp/atakausa/index.html1 point -
http://www.jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/Docs/daves_harness.doc With the cooperation of Many people on classic Zcars.com, I have put together a couple of links that even the most novice skilled people can use to make, build or even repair a "headlight relay harness" The link above has all the info on one site, the following links are the same but seperated for details that may have been lost in the process. The complete wiring diagram that may be enlarged using the "expand" button on the lower right side of the picture. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10552&d=1136682638 Below is the link to the beginning of the instructions before pictures were added to minimize the pages. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10503&d=1135924571 This is the link to the pictures that go with the instruction above. It's in "PDF" form. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10505&d=1135974151 This is the instructions without the complete harness diagram at the bottom. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10525&d=1136242415 This is a link to "Daves possible parking light fix" forum that I'm working on http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=157640&posted=1#post157640 Do what you will with the info above but it's everything I have at the moment. I WILL add to the instructions as soon as I get a chance. Dave.1 point
