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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2017 in all areas

  1. It's under the plastic kick panel. The screws are hard to get to. The pedal in this picture is the clutch pedal. I circled the connector.
  2. Well... the good news is that an intermittent problem has now become permanent. That's easier to diagnose.... Be Safe.
  3. Sure miss seeing new pics of this build....
  4. Judging from your questions, I'd say that the particular car in question is not the right one for you. It has many non-standard details, and is missing some parts which can be hard to find and would requite some work to take it back to stock specs. It was modified to look a little like a 432-R model, but to be frank it was a rather half-hearted effort. It even has an S130 plastic bonnet emblem... But a good driver car, and the so-called 'collectors' who are looking for investment value and all the screw heads to line up will probably be avoiding it.
  5. I thank everyone for their good suggestions. I'm planning to check out the simplest and least expensive offers first. Alas, everything will have to wait until 2/3 when my social security arrives. I will get the spark plugs first and check what improvement is shown then. For sure I will share that information. To photo the current plugs, that will have to wait until Sunday or Monday when my son gets back in town. We share a spark plug size tool. Thanks again to all, I knew I could count on your help with this. You have never let me down! Jan
  6. A search of the Toronto Star newspaper's archives will be needed to verify this but, having lived in/around these parts all my life, I find it very hard to believe that there was any kind of major auto show happening in Toronto in the spring or early summer. There have traditionally been only two times of the year for auto shows in Toronto: the big show, held in mid-winter (say, Jan-Feb), and the secondary show, held at the end of the summer (Canadian National Exhibition - two weeks leading up to Labour Day). The 510 purportedly being air-shipped from Vancouver to Toronto in May 1970 could just as easily have been on its way to a dealer or media launch event (as opposed to an auto show, c/w roof-collapsing show models).
  7. 1 point
    eBay win! NOS Nikki MFP for $50 shipped. Huzza. Yeah, I know it's not original to a '73, but neither is my engine. The guy who has the Denki one I was watching wouldn't come down under $90 and I couldn't find an Ampco. I figured that since both of them have the same chance of being shot and needing a rebuild, and the replacement parts for both will be at least $50, why not get the one everyone covets for about half the price? 🤣 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. Haha! I like the little chaser LED. Reminds me of a project I did for one of my electronics design classes a long time ago. - I made an electronic metronome. Similar to the above, but when the LED reached the end of the row, it changed direction and went back the other way. Like a Cylon. An old school Cylon. Cylon Classic. I don't remember the details of the chips I used, but I do know there were more than just two of them...
  9. Could be you just need a tuneup. I've personally wasted a lot of time, and have seen others do the same, looking for solutions to a problem that was solved by new spark plugs. Your list says that the plugs were already dirty when you put RCB's ECU in. The ignition module is weaker than later models but still, it's as good as points. A tuneup, with new plugs, should get you back to baseline. An improved ignition system will get you more time between tuneups. Get back to baseline before swapping the big money stuff. Seriously, I really have spent a lot of time on a problem, then put new plugs in and it went away. (I felt like an idiot. No offense).
  10. Yes, and here's the link: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/nissan/fairlady-z/1873845.html
  11. I kinda ruled out valve lash because his compression figure were all good. How sharp is the spark? You should get a sharp blue SNAP with a good points ignition and HT lead from coil held about 1/8" to 1/4" from a ground. Weak spark or yellowish spark indicates a problem. One thing that is often over looked is the condenser. A weak condenser can cause sooting of plugs. Ignition will also break down at load and can cause backfiring through carbs. Since you recently changed plug leads, triple check that you got the firing order right. It's really easy to swap a couple of plug leads. Engine will run, but will be rough and you often get backfiring through carbs. In original post, owner mentioned back firing through carbs. That is unusual and normally points to Valve issue or ignition problem. Since his compression readings are very good and consistent, that rules out a valve lash problem IMHO. Still, it wouldn't hurt to check. But I think this is more of a fine tuning issue.
  12. Update for all my fellow Vintage Z enthusiasts. I had to have copies printed for all the inquiries (8 so far) and will have them posted in the morning. Thanks to everyone for the great response. Robert S, I got you covered. Chris
  13. So it's apparently a long standing tradition in the Great White North to have beautiful women perched atop your cars? I like it!!!
  14. This is the listing for the car. http://hymanltd.com/vehicles/5796-1971-datsun-240z-coupe/ Many more of you indicated that you want a copy than I have PMs. My Paypal address is: cwenzel@earthlink.net and I want you to send me $15 and I'll mail these out this week.
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