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http://www.bbc.com/autos/story/20150612-fords-new-gt-endurance-racer-recalls-the-world-beating-gt40

So I was thinking a while ago about a modification to the fuel rail. The old style of injector insulator has a plastic bottom and metal top, or so I think. What if a different metal top were machined that would have a cooling tube running through it to cool the injector body? The cooling tubes could be plumbed in series with each other. Then return fuel from the FPR could return through the cooling tubes before going back to the tank. If it were put together that way, then priming the pump for a minute or so would actually cool the injectors, so that starting would be possible.

Pouring some cold water over the fuel lines and Injectors worked for me. It's a pretty standard fix for Vapor Lock. Edit: Autocrossers often carry a small pressurized Garden sprayer. They spray the Intake manifold and Carb down between rounds, particularly if they have Multiple drivers and are making back to back runs or " Re-runs ". I used one when I Hillclimbed. Sometimes a car would crash when you were next in line and the event would be put on hold for a while. Everything would heat soak in the engine bay. Crew would pop the hood and then spray the Carb and Intake Manifold down with the water sprayer. If this wasn't done car would bog off the line and you would lose time. Also worked for cooling off the driver who was slowly baking, sitting in a 100+ degree car and covered in a triple layer Firesuit

Like a NOS setup except the pssst, psssst is for cooling, not clearing the NOS lines? All the kids would think you want to race. The scary thing about rapid cooling of hot parts is that they tend to distort and sometimes break. I had a cooling air setup on my injectors for a while, with a hose with holes in it to direct air on to each injector. It worked great but I had to twist a timer dial every time I stopped the engine. Keeping them cool, instead of cooling them after they got hot. A turbo timer would probably work. It was a lot of complexity though. The aluminum fuel rail and the insulation of the injectors seems simpler. A timer on the fuel pump do the trick. Keep the cool fuel running through the rail. I had pondered that but never tried it. Leaving the fuel pump running with the car unattended bothered me, plus heating the fuel in the tank. I also thought about running a line from the coolant system over the injectors with an electric water pump, but air was easier. The situation is just aggravating, overall.

I think I see JB Weld on the fitting where it was leaking. I think I would pull that apart to see what's going on. And install new pipe fitting.

That's the boss for the #6 exhaust rocker pivot. Probably unlikely to leak anything? I would think a good welder could touch that up, even without removing the head. It might not even be necessary if the crack is stable. The big question, though, is whether there's chocolate milk in the crankcase. The engine should definitely get a round of new plugs and wires. That's never a bad thing.

If you think about it, those are actually "period correct" modifications! Now where are my green and light-yellow striped bell bottoms... (yes, I had a pair like that).

I don't think your mods automatically place you in the DD class. The Street Modified class also allows for up to 15 visible mods BUT expect these cars to be super clean and very well detailed out. No grease or grime in the engine bay, decals in place, upholstery in excellent shape, paint in almost perfect condition, no dirt anywhere. Think Stock class but with mods - the judging criteria is the same. The DD class allows for signs of road use such as paint chips without every nook and cranny sparkly clean. Expect reasonable road grime buildup in the engine bay. Upholstery should be in good shape and a clean interior. Overall the car should be clean, shiny, and unbent with wear appropriate to its age. Sorry you won't make it to the party, I always enjoy your posts. Hope this helps a bit.

Thank you for your emotional support. I got very dismayed when she stopped the 2nd time. Normally, once the episode is over she runs like a champ. I agree with all the fine comments you made about the Z's. I have thought the same about them, I do know about the abilities of these cars. I drove my 1971 Z 256,000 miles with no serious problems. I think they are Super Cars, very durable. Thanks again...

I just talked to Chet, who Steve suggested I get to look at my 280Z. He thinks that most probably it is the rust and debris in the gas tank that is causing my problems. We have tentavely made plans for me to get my Z to him to do the work. All I have to do is find the $ to pay him with, and it will be done. Thank you Steve for connecting us!

Wow. I like your dedication to DIY!

My car is running and moving under its own power now. almost there. Sorting out all the gremlins.

Why not use a mechanical fuel pump.....works great at all throttle settings?

Interested in relays? Have time on your hands for a little light technical reading? Try this website... http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp It has a complete forum on 12VDC relays!

I'll see if I can get some pics for you. But remember...once you see it you can't unsee it! Chuck

I just wanted to close out this build thread with a huge Thank you to all the members here that helped and inspired me to get through this project. I've seen a lot of these build threads start out strong and end up with the owner selling the car or losing interest, and believe me, I was almost there a couple times. But everytime I had an issue, there was someone here willing to lend a helpful hand. I will still be on this forum checking out everyone's projects and post new things that I've changed or added to my Z but I would say mines pretty much complete. Thanks again! -Matt

You need to know! It is hard to help someone from several thousand miles away. Even harder without all the facts.