240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena

[240ZBUILTBYME]

7 hours ago, Namerow said:

I may be completely off the mark here, but I wonder what it would cost to ship a rough-but-solid 240Z chassis from the US west coast to your location in Perth.  I'm going to guess US$10,000.  Add, say, $2,000 to hire someone trustworthy in the US (CZCC member?) to act as your buying/shipping agent.  Add $US 10,000 to buy the car.  Let's say, US$25,000 when all is said and done.  Using this approach, the car might need a bit of metal work but it should be within your means as DIY work.

I wonder if this might prove to be a much faster route toward your end goal?  Keep in mind that you never know where you'll end up if you hire a local commercial shop to do the metal work on your current Z.  Unknowns: 1) total cost; 2) days/months/years to complete; 3) quality of work delivered; % of work actually completed before either the price goes up or you lose patience). 

As tempting as it might be to turn your Z over to a commercial specialist, it may just open up a completely new can of worms.  It can be de-risked by using progress payments based on completion milestones, but I doubt that most shops are going to be willing to sign such a contract.

I see that as the far more riskier option than using my chassis. unless the chassis shell is blasted and in epoxy you wont be able to tell whether there is rust. secondly you gents drive on the wrong side of the road! by the time you convert the currency its roughly the same cost for the shop to do it

[dutchzcarguy]

12 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

unless the chassis shell is blasted and in epoxy you wont be able to tell whether there is rust.

Disagree! I got a special pair of eyes...!!  Jokes aside.. most cars if you can get the past of the car, and use magnets, some special (small) places that are almost always rotted cleaned to the metall, then you cán tell if it's a good body. Also use a endoscope for internal rust!

13 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

secondly you gents drive on the wrong side of the road!

NO no... most people drive on the RIGHT right side!  (Just messing with yeh..)  It's NOT a problem at all as the chassis is made for both! LHD and RHD!  Didn't you see this already??  So it's very easy to put the parts from your RHD on the LHD car..... 🙂

I would think it over as Namerow has a point here.. you never know how big a mess a specialist still can make.. (Don't ask!!! pffff...)

When the car is completely ready for a drive on a nice day.. then you will know what it all costed, not earlyer..

[240ZBUILTBYME]

On 6/5/2023 at 4:43 PM, dutchzcarguy said:

Disagree! I got a special pair of eyes...!!  Jokes aside.. most cars if you can get the past of the car, and use magnets, some special (small) places that are almost always rotted cleaned to the metall, then you cán tell if it's a good body. Also use a endoscope for internal rust!

NO no... most people drive on the RIGHT right side!  (Just messing with yeh..)  It's NOT a problem at all as the chassis is made for both! LHD and RHD!  Didn't you see this already??  So it's very easy to put the parts from your RHD on the LHD car..... 🙂

I would think it over as Namerow has a point here.. you never know how big a mess a specialist still can make.. (Don't ask!!! pffff...)

When the car is completely ready for a drive on a nice day.. then you will know what it all costed, not earlyer..

Yeah I still see importing a car from the US as a bigger risk than going with the devil i know. 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

 

So Im planning to pick up this set of triple weber 45 dcoe 152 3 progression hole, does anyone have any thoughts on this model of webers? I have not done much research on webers but I have seen some negativity around these. 

Wondering if I should be going for the 152G 4 progression hole model instead?

These were bought new in 2021 and only been lightly used, basically brand new. 

[Patcon]

It's my understanding that 40's are a better size unless you have a lot of displacement

[Racer X]

Any carburetor setup will require frequent setting and adjusting to keep the engine in tune and performing well. I like the SU carbs because adjusting of jetting is a simple matter, just adjust the nozzles up or down, no pesky jet changing. 
 

If you are OK with the continual fiddling, or running the setup a bit fat as a compromise, go for it.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

9 minutes ago, Patcon said:

It's my understanding that 40's are a better size unless you have a lot of displacement

Ill be running a 3.0 to 3.1L so I think 45's are appropriate from what ive read

[Yarb]

Take a look at OER carburetors out of Japan. My understanding from Datsun Spirit is they are a hybrid mix design of Mikuni & Webber carburetors. Eiji swears by them. They come in a complete kit as well. Just another avenue to investigate.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

3 minutes ago, Racer X said:

Any carburetor setup will require frequent setting and adjusting to keep the engine in tune and performing well. I like the SU carbs because adjusting of jetting is a simple matter, just adjust the nozzles up or down, no pesky jet changing. 
 

If you are OK with the continual fiddling, or running the setup a bit fat as a compromise, go for it.

Initially I was going to run the original 4 screw hitachi SU's to start with and upgrade later to triples, but these popped up and im tempted to just go straight triples 

[grannyknot]

10 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Take a look at OER carburetors out of Japan. My understanding from Datsun Spirit is they are a hybrid mix design of Mikuni & Webber carburetors. Eiji swears by them. They come in a complete kit as well. Just another avenue to investigate.

I ran OER's on a hot L2.8 for a couple of years and it was a great combo, they are easier to adjust float levels and change jets.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

9 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Take a look at OER carburetors out of Japan. My understanding from Datsun Spirit is they are a hybrid mix design of Mikuni & Webber carburetors. Eiji swears by them. They come in a complete kit as well. Just another avenue to investigate.

I have looked at those and they seem great value. issue is more the expertise to run and service them in Perth would be non existent. My Z guy has never worked with anything but webers so id rather stick with what he knows. I was keen to run mikunis but the price of them and lack of expertise in perth made me rule them out. I don't want to have to pay for my mechanic to learn all about mikunis lol 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

14 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I ran OER's on a hot L2.8 for a couple of years and it was a great combo, they are easier to adjust float levels and change jets.

which oer units did you run? 45mm? I just looked up the pricing, it is tempting