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Need rubber fuel/brake line insulators and rear proportioning valve for 73 BRE Tribute

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I'm helping a club member finish his BRE tribute car. Some parts went AWOL during the decade at the body shop... no BS.

 

Currently it is raised  to run the brake and fuel lines but the owner lost the originals along with the fastening hardware.

 

I'm currently looking for the rubber insulators and brackets to hold all lines.

 

Grateful is someone has these parts for sale!

 

 

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Nix240z has the rubber insulators. I have the little 4mm or what ever bolts but I don't have the clips

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Love the blocks btw. That one is up in the air. Ever have any issues with it that high?

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$200 for all the rubber and clips from zcardepot looks good to me.  3D printed rubber though, how long would that last?

That car is going to be showroom piece, park it in the living room or Man Cave. :D

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11 hours ago, JSM said:

Love the blocks btw. That one is up in the air.

Agreed. I like that and I think I'm going to put something together like that. It's not often that I want my car that high off the ground, but that looks like a good approach.

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17 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Grateful is someone has these parts for sale!

I am parting a 73, I just went and looked at the fuel/brake clips and they are a bit rusted. Not sure if you want to use them on such a nice looking car. Just thought I would offer them up. 

The proportioning valve is there too (the fire wall one?) and will also need some clean up. 

 

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2 hours ago, 240260280 said:

The owner's brother did the lifting. He is into off-road truck trials and truck work so I think he is experienced. :)

Curious to what he lifts the jack up with. I’m assuming he has to elevate it too?

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@Terrapin Z

Great! They look fine.  I can clean them up with acid no problem. 

I'll take them as well as the proportioning valve, pressure-loss switch, the brass valve/splitter in the back (above the differential... see picture below) and all tube clips in the engine compartment too.

PM me and we can sort out payment and shipping.

BIG THANKS!

That BRE will be grateful too!

He may need more parts too. Glad you have a parts car!

 

image.gif

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1 hour ago, rcb280z said:

That's my question: How did he get the car that high to begin with?

 

I'm not sure but I will guess alternate centre jacking on the front cross member and then centre jacking on the rear differential can bring it up in steps. The jack will also have to be blocked as the heights increase.  I did something similar years ago.  Not sure if I have photos  but it is an easy way to walk the Z higher.

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2 hours ago, JSM said:

Curious to what he lifts the jack up with. I’m assuming he has to elevate it too?

 

2 hours ago, rcb280z said:

That's my question: How did he get the car that high to begin with?

Houdini's levitating lady trick. Pass a hula hoop around It. LOL

Maybe he won't saw it half. 

Edited by siteunseen

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1 hour ago, 240260280 said:

 

PM me and we can sort out payment and shipping.

BIG THANKS!

That BRE will be grateful too!

He may need more parts too. Glad you have a parts car!

PM sent

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5 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I'm not sure but I will guess alternate centre jacking on the front cross member and then centre jacking on the rear differential can bring it up in steps. The jack will also have to be blocked as the heights increase.

Agreed. I would also assume that's how he raises it.

You walk it up one or two layers at a time. If you're going to be doing this often, you might even go through the trouble of screwing or nailing the wood stubs into a square "layer" beforehand and having a stack of them in the corner of the garage.

Lift one end up high enough to get a layer under the jack stands and then let it down onto the stands. Then move to the other end of the car and do the same thing. Keep alternating ends until you have "walked" it up one layer at a time to the desired height. As long as the wood is flat-ish and isn't really warped, you will always have three points of contact and it should be stable even while on two stacks and a jack.

I sometimes move machinery (surprised?) and utilize the same technique. I just never thought of stacking (and probably pre-building) layers in that geometry.

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I used this technique before, just when I get to my final height I put in bigger solid blocks for stability. A large beam I cut some pieces from. 

I am not sure I would want to be under there with it just being on the 2X4's. I suppose that is a personal choice.

 

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2 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

I used this technique before, just when I get to my final height I put in bigger solid blocks for stability. A large beam I cut some pieces from. 

I am not sure I would want to be under there with it just being on the 2X4's. I suppose that is a personal choice.

 

 Wood cribbing is still the go to method for supporting large items. Working under a ship on dry dock that is supported by wood cribbing will make one a believer. Yeah, they still support them that way.

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There's also a weight difference between the tribute car and say mine for example but...........totally like what you reminded me of Mark. That cribbing has been around for a long time and will continue to be.

I'm going to make me some to make pulling the trany and oil pan easier.

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12 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

There's also a weight difference between the tribute car and say mine for example but...........totally like what you reminded me of Mark. That cribbing has been around for a long time and will continue to be.

I'm going to make me some to make pulling the trany and oil pan easier.

I'm with you Bob, most likely the tribute is a considerably lighter load.  If I was you I think I would go with 2x8s or at least 2x6s. :) 

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Within reason*, I don't think the weight load really matters. As implemented above, the wood is all strictly in compression. So as long as the planks are larger than the jack stand feet (with margin above that for side-to side stability), the dimensions of the wood are pretty much immaterial.

As long as you can draw a line straight down from the jack stand feet to the concrete and never pass through any air, those stacks should all be in compression. And for reference, I believe what's used in those pics is 2x6's (1.5 x 5.5).

All that said, be safe and don't try this with a stack of 10,000 popsicle sticks.  :facepalm:

 

*Assuming you aren't putting enough compression load on it to explode the wood out the sides. Like tons and tons.

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Yep, 2x6's for sure Cliff.

Ah CO, you took all the fun out of it. Was going to have a Popsicle eating frenzy. Ate a few last week while I was in the Southern Caribbean :cool:. It was really warm there. 

Edited by rcb280z

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