Starting problem

[SeKcGamer]

Took some shots of the fuel pressure gauge, and that's what it does now, every time I guess it'll just get lower as it goes


Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[siteunseen]

I think you have Red-Kote stopping up the feed line or a vent line.  Try running it out of a gas jug, bypassing the tank altogether like Zed Head suggest.

You should be able to get to the supply hose without removing the tank completely, maybe lower the straps some?  Look through this and you might see something, an idea, light bulb in your head.  Good luck.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

 

[Dave WM]

you clearly have issues with fuel pressure.

start with a new fuel filter, try again

then

I would second ZH on breaking this down. Start with a 5 gallon can of gas, with a fill and return line, bypassing the tank completely. See if it still does it.

You have to break the system down to:

1. fuel tank (can of gas)
2. fuel pump (new one if any doubt)
3. electrical supply to said pump (volt meter on pump)
4. fuel lines (check for ease of flow)
5. fuel filter (just replace it)
6. pressure regulator after all the above then pretty much has to be this test by seeing how well it works in a static environment then adj by applying a vacuum.

 

 

 

I

[siteunseen]

I wasn't thinking earlier. You can put a hose on the suction side of the fuel pump and run the return from the engine bay into another can. Won't have to fool with the fuel tank at all. Plus you could use all low pressure, cheaper, fuel line. There would be no high pressure involved. It only does that after the pump. You'd be feeding the pump and the return would be after the fuel pressure regulator, low.

[JSM]

On ‎8‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 0:40 PM, SeKcGamer said:

Update: I dropped the tank and checked it thoroughly, and nothing seemed to be blocking the lines. So I put everything back on and exchanged my fuel pump with a new one and I installed it. I also put a fuel filter before the pump and deleted the one after it. After everything was installed the car started right up, I took it for a drive around the block twice and drove fine, but on my third run I started getting the same problems again. The pressure went down and I barely made it back home. When I finally got back it died at 16psi and didn't want to start anymore. The first time I dropped the tank I remember seeing this little black filter coming out from the top of the tank and I replaced it with a small fuel filter idk what I was exactly but it looked stock. Do you think my fuel lines could be bad or clogged?

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

I would now disconnect the connections from the new fuel pump, place a good battery in the back and hard wire directly to the fuel pump.  Then go for a drive.  Eliminate any ECU or AFM input. 

This way you can eliminate any obstruction issues.  If it continues, you know there is obstruction some where.

Edited August 17, 2017 by JSM

[siteunseen]

That is a very good, and simple test Jsm suggest. Elimination of gremlins.

You could run speaker wire with alligator clips through the fuel sending inspection cover in the hatch. Easy to do I would think.

[SeKcGamer]

Guys, aside from this. I'm very lost and confused about the fuel tank issue. Because there's I guy where I live(Nampa,idaho) and he has this huge lot of z's and that he used to be a mechanic on z's and he goes by "idahoz" and his first name is Kim. He told me he is the only one who knows how to restore a tank without cutting it or using POR15 and anybody who uses "POR15" is one of the biggest idiots ever. And he would sell me a tank that only he knows how to restore for 840$. All I got out from him on how he makes it is that he uses"open flame" that's the only hint I got. But my dad thinks it's a scam because he wants to be prepaid and that he'd have it done in less than a month. He told me not even sand blasting a z tank works because every z tank has this really fine mesh and some other stuff. So I don't know what to believe. And I'm on a lot of pressure because school starts in less than a week and I'm out of a car. And I don't know if my tank can still be resurrected on what he has told me. I'm really under a lot of stress because i don't know what to do. And who to believe. He told me he read the article about the guy that "supposedly fixed his tank using POR15" and that he went on that forum and told him how stupid the guy was. But idk. I need help guys.


Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[JSM]

4 minutes ago, SeKcGamer said:

Guys, aside from this. I'm very lost and confused about the fuel tank issue. Because there's I guy where I live(Nampa,idaho) and he has this huge lot of z's and that he used to be a mechanic on z's and he goes by "idahoz" and his first name is Kim. He told me he is the only one who knows how to restore a tank without cutting it or using POR15 and anybody who uses "POR15" is one of the biggest idiots ever. And he would sell me a tank that only he knows how to restore for 840$. All I got out from him on how he makes it is that he uses"open flame" that's the only hint I got. But my dad thinks it's a scam because he wants to be prepaid and that he'd have it done in less than a month. He told me not even sand blasting a z tank works because every z tank has this really fine mesh and some other stuff. So I don't know what to believe. And I'm on a lot of pressure because school starts in less than a week and I'm out of a car. And I don't know if my tank can still be resurrected on what he has told me. I'm really under a lot of stress because i don't know what to do. And who to believe. He told me he read the article about the guy that "supposedly fixed his tank using POR15" and that he went on that forum and told him how stupid the guy was. But idk. I need help guys.


Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It will be alright  

My test above, running direct power to the new fuel pump, will help you isolate it it is a blockage or an electrical issue. 

You haven't eliminated the possibility that the Ecu or AfM may also be causing intermentant issues. 

I would agree with your father in this instance.  For that price you could likely find a really good clean used one.

Heck, I had huge rust issues in my sons old 280z and I never even sealed it.  Acid wash and lots of water to flush. Ran a hair dryer  for about an hour to dry it and threw some motor oil for a quick coat.  Installed and filled with gas and never looked back.

siteunseen had a good process:

 

 

 

[Zed Head]

Sometimes doing will help the thinking.   You're not doing anything.

JSM's suggestion is good, because the only way for the pressure to drop if your FPR is good is for the injectors to squirt fuel.  So, engine running is needed.  But I would let the engine sit and idle, no driving.  Or let the pump run alone and just listen.  See if it stops running.  But you need to try something.  If you don'e know what the source of the problem is you might end up with two goods tanks and the same problem

Believe us. Don't buy a new tank yet.  POR 15 has worked fine for many, and you followed the directions.

 

[grannyknot]

 

8 hours ago, SeKcGamer said:

He told me he is the only one who knows how to restore a tank

That's just BS, trust your Dad.  Many of us here have restored our tanks using POR15 or Red Kote and they fine.

It is easy to get overwhelmed with all the little stuff that pops up on these cars, try and focus on one problem at a time.  You have been given some very good advice, go through each method that has been suggested and report back on what you found when you tried it. Try not to get too stressed it will just cloud your thinking.

[gwri8]

+1 on Dad's advice.  This Kim guy is trying to take advantage of you for sure.  And for future reference, POR 15, and probably Red Kote too, are removable  with POR 15 Solvent and other paint removers.  I know the current fuel problem is frustrating but it's entirely fixable. We've all been there and I'm not going to muddy the waters with more advice. Go slow and be methodical. 

[Dave WM]

he may be referring to the sock that is located in the tank on the fuel pickup. I don't understand how the various coatings work around that (or even if there is such a thing). I paid a bundle to get my tank done, guy cut it open sand blasted, removed sock, welded back up and re sealed with something, then painted outside. the guy that did my tank did mention the sock filter inside my tank (I did not see ) so I assume it really is in there. If I had my borescope back then I would have used it to confirm, but its all done now, no leaks and no fuel problems. I am not doubting others that have endorsed DIY with redkote or POR15 just giving you another actual example. IIRC the guy was one of those franchise fuel tank refurb. Not that that means anything, but they are nation wide. Of course the francise means nothing its all the skill of the guy doing the work. I did take my tank to a rad shop, they looked inside and said "red kote" and would not touch it. That's when I was referred to the other guy. He did say the cost was higher than normal due to all the various inner walls etc. on my tank.

All the above is just FYI, there is no reason to go down tank refurb until you have CONFIRMED the tank is the problem. You have to things on the table to do first.

several others have posted how to confirm the pump/electrical supply. that should be checked 1st before committing to any major tank overhauls. The hard wired pump and separate fuel can would be a start.

think I said already but you should also do a flow test, plugged fuel filter and stuffy fuel lines.

what kind of pump is installed now? does it have a screen on the inlet side?