Costjo Posted March 27, 2014 Share #1 Posted March 27, 2014 Getting ready to help a buddy remove his 1970 240z l24 all original engine. Anybody in Melbourne,Florida area for help or any pointers,tips,tools type of beer to make our lives easier since its first time pulling a motor. Well for me I pulled a 77 trans am motor in high school about 30 years ago but my brain cells don't work like they used to. We are going to tackle it this weekend for Eiji to rebuild for him. Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted March 27, 2014 Share #2 Posted March 27, 2014 I may be able to drive up from Miami on Sat or SundayPM me. Sunday would be better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2014 Share #3 Posted March 27, 2014 Here's something to read over until Blue gets there, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/enginerebuild/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 27, 2014 Share #4 Posted March 27, 2014 Do some math before you start. Make sure you have enough room to move the engine hoist forward or the car backward once you get it lifted. Don't forget the that car will rise to the top of its suspension travel with the weight of the engine removed so if you don't get the engine high enough, you'll be stuck. Get a load-leveler if you can, it will help you keep the tail of the transmission low to get it out of the engine bay, then raise it back up to get it over the radiator mount. Consider dropping the transmission from below first, if you feel uncomfortable handling the bulk and weight of the two combined. Double check your lift points, the one in the back uses an exhaust mounting stud, which may not be as strong as it was. Don't forget to disconnect all wires, and the speedometer cable. Don't try to squeeze it out without removing the radiator. One small mistake and your down $150.Basically, play out the whole operation in your head or on paper, before you begin. It sucks to get half-way done and realize you need to reset the motor or transmission or car because you ran out of room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted March 27, 2014 Share #5 Posted March 27, 2014 Depending on the hoist you are using, the reach might be too short. Before you pull the engine, roll the hoist into position and make sure that the lifting eye is at least rearward as far as the #5 cylinder. If it's close, you can pull the front bumper to gain a few inches. If it's more than a few inches short, you will struggle to get the engine back in and lined up on the mounts. For this reason, I avoid fold-up hoists and bought a fixed leg model. They have much longer booms. As for the pull itself, pull the engine and trans as a unit. Be sure to tape a plastic bag over the trans output so the oil doesn't drip on your floor. Also, tape a WD40 lid over your hood prop clip. If you don't, you will likely drag the oil pan over the clip and break it off. The lid will help protect it and give you a warning if you do catch it with the pan. Pulling the engine is a breeze as long as you disconnect everything and get the car in the proper position. It helps to put the front tires on 2x10's and put the rear up on jack stands. It makes the angle less severe. Here is mine going in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Costjo Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted March 27, 2014 Thanks for all the great tips you guys. Starting to sound more difficult. I think the hoist is a fold up one, hopefully not. I hope Blue can come up that would be awesome! PM sent. I'm all ears for anymore advice :nervous: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted March 28, 2014 Share #7 Posted March 28, 2014 3/4 Ton Capacity Heavy Duty Load Leveler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 28, 2014 Share #8 Posted March 28, 2014 Start spraying all the bolts early with the tried & true 50/50 acetone & tranny fluid especially rusted exhaust bolts & use heat too, if necesary. If you've wrestled an engine out of a Trans Am you're well qualified to pull this one They are really pretty easy. Lot's of room in the engine bay. Mark in Portland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted March 28, 2014 Share #9 Posted March 28, 2014 One tip I have seen. Jack up the back end and put on stands. The engine and trans won't have to be at too much of wan angle to get out together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 28, 2014 Share #10 Posted March 28, 2014 Pencil mark around the hood hinges before you remove it. Helps get it even on both sides when you re-install it. And take some photos before you start, engine mounts are different for 1 side for example. A roll of painters tape and a Sharpie is a good way to tag everything. Zip-Loc bags for all the bolts too. Getting it out's easy, putting it back after spending the $$$ and time is nerve racking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Costjo Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share #11 Posted March 28, 2014 Checklist Buying 3/4 ton load leveler. jacking up back end Will the acetone tranny fluid mix work better than deep creep seafoam? Pencil mark hood hinges, taking photos, ziplock baggies, painters tape, labatt blue how many? following what Jeff G and Zed Head said Blue to the rescue see you Sunday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedyone_kenobi Posted March 28, 2014 Share #12 Posted March 28, 2014 You may as well add remove front bumper. You WILL need room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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