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IGNORED

JDM Headlight cover difference.


esprist

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Well you also have to note the cracking issues with certain ones.

I would stick with the JDM reproduction units , 4 screw set with no lower torque / bend / crack problems that Kats eluded to .

Edited by Unkle
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I would reproduce the 63901/63900-E4126. They are the most commonly sold in the US, so if anything happened to someone's originals, they could also be used to replace the originals or any part of them. Secondly - if they were the same as the originals sold here - it would be harder to spot "replicas".

Secondly - the originals have pre-drilled holes in the Plexiglass. If you don't have the proper type drill bits and/or experience etc - it is very easy to have these lenses CRACK thru the edges - while being drilled.

Thirdly - you better learn all you can about the various quality levels of Plexiglass {generic name} that are available. As I understand it - which is very little - you would want to specify Lexan or some equivalent quality level of polycarbonate to assure durability etc.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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^ I agree . Just getting the chrome / stainless frame to fit perfectly would be the real challenge I think - a good contact with the rubber gasket and headlight '' scoop '' would also eliminate moisture / fog .

I would think the poly lense itself would be the cheapest part to make once the initial shape is perfected , allowing purchasers to buy spares along with the entire assembly .

I don't think keeping it a certain style to easily tell if it's a ''fake'' or not should be in anyone's interest right now, as that arguement went out the door with repro throttle handles etc. Nobody seemed to care about originality then ! I would also like a set , but it's tough to justify the cost of originals right now . :)

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I would think the poly lense itself would be the cheapest part to make once the initial shape is perfected , allowing purchasers to buy spares along with the entire assembly

That could be - but the difference in price between cheap plexiglass and high quality Lexan can be 4X. Just suggesting that you be carefull when you "specify" the materials to be quoted and/or purchased.

I don't think keeping it a certain style to easily tell if it's a ''fake'' or not should be in anyone's interest right now. :)

My suggestion was to reproduce the most common type sold here in the US - make it hard to tell the difference between the originals and reproductions.LOL

FWIW,

Carl B.

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I have a set of of the OEM "original" or "first" set of the covers bought new in Japan in early 1971. They have been on the car sinse being bought. The chrome has held up very very well. Still very shiny and not pitted at all. The lenses are in pretty good shape as well. A few stress cracks here and there, but overall not in bad shape....

What I need is one of the rubber gaskets. I still have the gasket and it is still mounted, but it is starting to come loose. At the moment I just tuck it back under the cover while the car sits. I know I will be needing a new one by the time I start refreshing her. I wish I could find replacement rubber. Maybe I could fabricate my own. I don't think it would be to hard....

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got my headlight covers out of storage. Based on the information in other posts, it looks like they are originals after all. I think they are unused, but have some minor shelf wear. The black gaskets don't look like they have been mounted. I don't have the mounting hardware, but that should be pretty easy to recreate.

I also have a spare set of the used original trim rings. They both fit the covers the same and look to have the same construction.

-Mike

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Edited by Mike B
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Mike, what is it that makes you think that yours are the "originals"? I'm not saying they aren't, I'm just trying to find out what is the difference between your headlight covers and rings and the E4126 prefixed version shown in post #22. What part numbers would you assign to yours?

Alan and Carl have submitted parts #63900-E4100 & #63901-E4100 as the first known available headlight cover sets. If yours are the E4100 suffixed version, how did you determine this? I have been unable to find photographic evidence to identify the "originals".

Edited by geezer
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