Engine & Drivetrain
225 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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If you'll search on "injectors" you'll find several excellent threads and pictoral how-to's on this site, including: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread40882.html I just got done doing the job, and would like to offer a couple of tips to anyone planning to do this. First of all, the job took a serious six hours, even with air tools with only 1-2 very minor screwups. Taking pictures along the way repeatedly "saved" me lots of heartache. Plan on replacing innumerable vacuum lines / emissions hoses that are baked and aren't going to come off their nipples easily, unless you've already replaced them all. I discovered a crack on the BOTTOM of my hard-as-a-rock P…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 3 replies
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Went out first thing this morning meter and test leads in hand, to see if I could understand why my 1980 ZX is hard to start on cold mornings. Gonna start with the Cold Start valve and Thermotime switch. First thing I did was pull the connector off and zap the Cold Start Valve (hereafter: CSV) with 12V. Nice healthy click. No dropping resistor needed, you won't fry your CSV by applying B+ (battery positive) Next was to put a meter on the Thermotime (Tt) leads. Since they're in parallel with the CSV leads, should be simple, right. Just use the contacts in the CSV connector instead of wrestling the Tt connector off. (that's a trick question....don't fall for it!)…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Auxiliary Air Regulator --- Testing and Adjustment by Wade Nelson My 280ZX doesn't start as consistently and quickly as a fuel injected vehicle should, which is immediately on the first crank. Sometimes it takes several cranks, sometimes it'll barely catch and I have to pump the throttle to get it up to a normal idle speed, all of which indicate something isn't right. But from then on it runs great, so I've never worried too much about it. Bigger fish to fry... I also noticed I don't seem to get much if any idle-up on cold starts, higher RPMs which should gradually decrease. Themotyme / Cold start injector APPEAR to be working, at least intermittently, so this pointed…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 10 replies
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having an erratic idle, running rich. ok so i cleaned out intake manifold, put new gaskets on intake manifold/exhaust manifold, all the way down to the cat, throttle body gasket, torqued down to spec. refurbished afm, new fuel pressure regulator, new distributer, wires, plugs, fuel filter, cleaned egr, new air pressure regulator,new pcv, new injector because one was cracked. Tested coil, spark is good, it actually went arced up to 40. set static timing to top dead center and timing to 10 degrees btd. so heres the bad, im having an erratic idle, it stumbles and doesnt hold steady, lack of power, and after i take it around the block once it shuts off and has problems stayin…
Last reply by CEgg11, -
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- 2.1k views
I check with K&N and they do not make any intake kits for a 280 ZX. So does any body know who does? There's obviously gotta be something more better than that Auqa colored filter box...right?
Last reply by danielsheehan, -
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Is it behind the glove box?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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I bought a new PCV valve for my 280ZX from Rock Auto. Standard kinda PCV, threaded on one end, hose barb on the other. Only problem is I can't find any place to put it on my engine. The PCV hose from the valve cover to the intake manifold, well, it apparently doesn't thread into either end! I can't find any place for it except my glove box! Is the PCV integrated into the 90 degree elbow going into the valve cover? Did Rock send me the Rong part?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I decided to invest in a new set of injectors after speaking with a local mechanic friend. Vehicle is 1980 280ZX, 230k miles, which runs terrific, and gets excellent MPGs. My ZX usually starts IMMEDIATELY, and other times cranks and cranks, AS IF the fuel rail has lost pressure. In addition I've twice found liquid fuel in BCCD vaccum lines and a strong aroma of fuel on startup / underhood SUGGESTING a sometimes-leaking injector backfilling the throttle body. I've recently tried driving around with the Cold Start Valve unplugged, and it didn't seem to change things one way or the other. I figured it would either lengthen my starting cranks, or perhaps solve the loss o…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 replies
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I've got a dangling vacuum line, and I'm wondering if my 1980 Federal Model originally had the distributor with BOTH advance AND retard vacuum solenoids -- like the one I pulled at the junkyard. Anyone know the history on the distributors, federal vs California, etc?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 3 replies
- 2k views
Some eBay seller has numerous 2+2 clutches / p plates for sale, cheap. Are they just heavier duty than the stock clutch for the coupe? Has anyone been down this road? Are they compatible?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 5 replies
- 2k views
Is every previous owner an idiot? My 1980 ZX runs well, accelerates very rapidly, gets nearly 30mpg highway. It would be very hard to complain, performance-wise, for a car with 207,000 miles. Still, I had this nagging suspicion some power was being left on the table. I had a local guy who has owned numerous Z's drive it and he told me the same thing, he felt like it was missing a little power, might need a valve job, compression down a tad perhaps. Today's earlier discussion about octane and pinging, and advancing the timing made me think...why am I NOT getting any pinging under heavy load? NEVER! NONE! Timing incorrectly set? Timing advance mechanism not worki…
Last reply by grantf, -
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- 1.7k views
As a noob I felt left out of conversations about different ZX heads --- until I found these pages: http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/ *details P79, P90, P90a http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6012.0
Last reply by 240260280z,
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