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Who is Paul and where is it being sold? That "rarest of the Fairladies" is finishing today. I've noticed many "Bid to"'s though. People are getting tight with their funds, I think. Edit, aside - always funny how the sellers tell people how to use their computers so they don't screw up in the final two minutes. Smart enough to make an extra $100k or more to blow on a collector car, too dumb to know how to get the money spent. "As the listing approaches the end over the next few hours I’d recommend refreshing your screen and having the auction on two devices so it’s in live time." Bring a Trailer1971 Nissan Fairlady Z 5-SpeedBid for the chance to own a 1971 Nissan Fairlady Z 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #211,860.

Paul's car is for sale AGAIN!

1970 Datsun 240ZLink

Let me know if you want info on the 2pole Bosch sensor.

Check out the housing ZCD sells. I bought this for my resto. Worked beautifully, A little pricy but has everything you need thread wise. I’ll post a pic.

On another thread, EuroDat gave this info. I think the sizes are as follows. You should be able to find a M12 easy enough or tap the 1/4" out to 3/8" NPT. Temp gauge: M16×1.5mm Thermotime: M14×1.5mm Water temp: M12×1.5mm (for fuel injection control) Water temperature switch: 1/4" BSPT. (Not the same as NPT. Has 19 threads per inch and NPT has 18.) Why on earth Nissan decided to use BSPT on that one port is beyond me. Some folks use a BSPT to NPT adapter to get a sensor in that port but I'm hoping it can be drilled and re-tapped for 3/8" NPT. Has anyone done this?

Yes. My thermostat housing (no idea what model it came from) has an amazing 5 ports so one for the temperature gauge sending unit, which is already installed along with an EFI sending unit, and one for the fan switch. One port is already plugged so I'll leave that alone and plug the others as I'll have triple Weber carbs with no need for a water line as was used on the OEM SU manifold.

Are you trying to trigger it from your thermo housing?

We probably all know that you can choose a thermostat that opens and closes at several temperature combinations. My L24 FSM says the stat should open (and close) at 180 F. Fine and dandy. But now I'm putting a 3.1 L stroker motor in my car and adding a Vintage Air A/C system and a 2450 CFM Perma-Cool electric fan as well. So, I need to get a thermal switch to operate the fan (which will also be activated by the trinary switch on the A/C system). Assuming that a 180 F turn on temp is OK for the stroker, the question is at what temp should the switch turn off and is that even important? Almost every switch I see online has a 165 F turn off point. I presume that is fine because any running engine should be at about 180 F when it gets turned off and the fan would be running. But I want to check with folks more expert in these matters and that's you fine people. Am I worrying about nothing?

I removed the degraded foam before using the 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. That was at least three years ago. The car has sat out in the weather year-round and still no sagging.

Like the Z's here in ARIZONA...

I've been reading about this guy for years but had no idea about this, I assume it's true but haven't checked. In 1972 he sets a record of 152 MPH at Bonneville in this car... Then Nissan ups the ante in 1976 to 166MPH with this car... The Datsun 240Z that rewrote the Bonneville record book _ Articles _ Classic Motorsports.html

Good question. I 've used it several times over the past decades and used it again on my 79 last year but I doubt that I'll be around in 20 years to confirm.

I just saw at 1982 280ZX list on Facebook Marketplace near me.

Does it last for 20 years?

Yesterday, I made a 4-hour "tour de Suisse" to collect various parts which I've purchased and visit some friends. My first stop was at my good friend Stefan from Cagedude. Aside from always finding crazy builds in his workshop, I'm always full of joy to see his collection of C10 and C110 Skylines in various states of Restauration. The red one in front is a genuine Swiss-Market 2000GT Shortly after I got my tool-wall, another original Datsun workshop tool wall popped up for sale. Since I already had one, I told hem he should get it, which he did. The wall stayed in his possession for a while, but then he called me and told me he has no time to complete it, so I should get it instead. So I picked it up yesterday. So it means the hunt for all the missing tools starts again. Luckily, I already was able to complete an empty wall once, so I hope I'll manage that again. Oh, and I also picked up this 280ZX T-top Nissan Press poster for another friend of mine. The second stop was at my mate Heiko, who has a nice collection of Z's and roadsters, among some other cars. The reason was to pick up a complete euro-spec rear bumper center section, which is increasingly hard to find. The EU-version has additional holes for the lower number plate lighting. I have several, but all have messed up mounting brackets. This one needs some love too, but at least the brackets are good, so I can use it for test-fitment of everything. And then i got another "Mystery package" from a long-standing parts dealer partner, which included various interior and battery parts. Plus a rear bumper side section, ashtray, etc. And some random NOS parts, plus a lot of replated parts. It's always a bit of a mixed bag from this vendor. Some parts are really useful, NOS or good quality, Some appear to be from different generation Z's or even other cars, or are not in the best condition. Usually, the good parts make up for the bad ones. This-time the J-bolts for the tank straps came in very handy, and it's always good to have a variety of parts on site. Even the "bad" ones usually get used for trial-fitments, etc. I hope with all this new parts and information from yesterday, i will be able to spend another few hours in the workshop with hopefully some progress on the car. Stay tuned.

Nice, people can always PM me for it at €300,- (It's a clean unscratched clock the last time i checked, if not it will be less offcourse. And i send pics before selling.)

@Mike

Those are some cool turnbuckles with the moe clamp ends!

RUST!!! Random pics of rust before I started chopping and treating rust . I’ll put a link to a YouTube video I made regarding Rust911 . The rust seemed bad but my buddy said “ nah- it’s too bad” . He got me started on rust911 . Being a scientist he did controlled testing on various products on the market for treating or getting rid of rust . He’s currently doing a 72 Volvo 1800es. He had treated his car with amazing results . I followed his methods and I’m still using them to this day .

Looks like I forgot the pic of the turnbuckles . Once i tried a door and hatch to match sure my gaps were decent I finished welding things up . Getting the roof on was the big hurdle . It killed me to just walk past this car all these years and not do anything to it , but without a roof it would have been a waste of time . Now I could finally take to ordering panels . In case anyone cares this car is being built for me . I know there will be skeptics of someone welding a roof on but I feel confident enough to drive this until I can’t drive anymore :) Some videos I watched of chopped roofs made my install look better - ha .

Mine was clearly an adhesive failure and not a cohesive one. I suspect folks who have cars that have been out in the summer sun for many years might have the cohesive failure you experienced.

You guys probably know this but if you're trying to restick an original headliner often the foam backing is so degraded that it fails internally, not at the surface. Just posting for anybody who ends up like I did. I used 3M contact adhesive in a spray can. But the foam was "toasted" (literally) and it sagged again. I never did scrape off the old foam and try again. What I should have done.

Thanks for your input, Mark. I installed the headliner first using some spray can adhesive I'd bought some time ago, probably from Motorsport Auto. All went well with the installation and I was patting myself on the back about it. Then, two days later the headliner was sagging in the middle. Figuring the solvent just needed time to evaporate and escape, I tried pressing it into place using coroplast pieces (coroplast is the stuff used to make most yard signs these days) wedged in place with appropriate lengths of scrap 2x4 lumber. After a week the headliner still sagged so I had to remove it, use xylene (a.k.a. xylol) to remove the spray can goop from the metal and that's when I went to brushing on the Weldwood HHR. No further problems.

Un restored I would guess about $375-425. Ron