Topics Last 30 Days

I could sure use a 3d print file for the vertical base part of the mirror

Wow! Did these restores actually increase the weight of the car by 420Lbs? Or is the right hand plaque in the picture for another car?

I thought that was the name of the Farmers union?

eBay UK240z Datsun Series 1 1972 1/2 Fuse Cover / Ash Tray s/ste...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. Ideal i...S/Steel snuffer plate installed

Nice and clean very pretty i just wet myself....

Finally got the clock back after 10 weeks!!! (instrumentworks) and was able to get the dash back in place. I should have replaced the bulbs in the rest of the cluster but was too tired of waiting and got lazy on that job. The rest of the cluster is a bit dim but I am not taking the dash out again. Experience ... putting the dash back in and connecting that speedo cable was the most difficult job on this car in my opinion. I recommend anyone taking the dash and putting the windshield gasket together to put the dash in first. Installing the windshield with the rope method is extremely easy and can be done after the dash is installed. For reference I was able to find this extended length pliers to tighten the cable on the speedometer else there is no room from the bottom to reach out to it with hand. It is impossible to tighten it all the way. I was able to barely put it on with my hand with just couple of turns to keep steady, then use pliers. With the windshield off it might be more easy to reach to the speedocable from the back/windshield side.

Post up the serial number and any information about mileage. And if it's complete: carbs, manifolds, air pump, etc. Might have value to somebody restoring an early 240Z. Also, on the 4 speed, whether or not it's a "monkey-motion" transmission or the later style. If it has the clutch parts too, that might help you sell it. Good luck.

That's a midlife crisis screaming out loud car. I'd end up wearing shoes without laces. 🤪

How did it look? What did your brother think of it?

Selling Datsun 240z rear taillight trim for $220 USD or $300CAD on ebay.ca. Listing: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/376366931004

I typed some of this into AI to see what it said, and it came back with a lot of stuff, but the main thing was: However, you can search for a compatible replacement. Look for a 4.1945 MHz (or 4.194304 MHz, which is a common close frequency, as 222/106approx4.194304) crystal oscillator with similar package, voltage, and output characteristics. You'll need to know the pinout of your existing oscillator if you want a direct drop-in replacement. You could measure the voltage on a working one to get that, but the other specs would be hard to get without a datasheet.

IMO this is AI playing a game.

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

I have the paint code information and stuff. I didn't know if there was a report that showed all the stuff like the marti report out there or not. I have ran the vin on carfax and got all info that you are able to find out (maintenance, wrecks, title, inspection and stuff). It just doesn't show like this car is #1 of 1500 with this paint and trim.

Thanks for the responses. I think I might just go with Hastings rings just to be safe. Seems like its the most cost effective option with reported good reviews.

Case closed update: I had my seats re-foamed and the ride is great now. I was surprised how big a difference that made, but we're sitting pretty now. Thanks all!

Yeah, to me the biggie is the change of the body vents from the hatch to the pillars, that is probably the "hardest stake in the ground" item for SN 21001. Is SN 21001 also when the center console moved stuff like the ashtray/lighter, no throttle slot next to the choke lever? I know how the cabin was is my '73 and it had the console I just described with the lighter in the dash.

Quite right. I was looking at the wrong column.

Quick one today. After working out some kinks in the wiring (thanks @SteveJ) I’m nearly done with it. I refurbished the wiring for the tail lights this week. I’ve always planned to rework the arrangement to be more like (but not exactly like) the euro tail lights. I’ve read a ton of stuff about these cars getting rear ended, so I wanted to make it as clear as possible that I’m braking. I still plan to add a third brake light, but I think this is substantially better than the original US tail light configuration. Driving lights are the outside top lights only. IMG_4744.mov IMG_4745.movTurn signals are the outside bottom lights only (thanks to @w3wilkes for the flasher recommendation). Brakes all of the top lights. Now I have to figure out what I’m going to do with the front turn signals. These LEDs are so bright that when the driving lights are on you can’t tell they flashing from more than a couple feet away. I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it cut power to the driving light wire only when the turn signal is working.

Thanks everyone that contributed to this thread. I was repowering my 65 520 pickup upgrading from the J13 to the L18 and had this same issue with my clutch. Read the thread a couple of times, took some measurements and figured it out. The clutch package I used had an integrated throw-out bearing/sleeve so changing sleeves was not an option. I welded a 1/4" spacer onto the ears and now it's 92mm exactly from the flywheel!

Update: these have been taken, and are NLA. Ad can be deleted or closed, if so desired by Admin.

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

Some summertime vibe music.

I think.. the middle and the right one are the same toggle switches, the middle one is only a bit more dirty, a clean up with some soap and a nail brush makes them nice and the same.. btw, my 240z from 2-'71 has the left one. for as far i know it's the original one. It does not work as i always flatten the knob with my right knee! ;-) (as i'm 6 feet 4-5 or so..)

These cleaned up really nice, but the previous owner for some reason cut some of the coolant hardline and I had no choice but to remove the remainder - the ports did strip in the process... There's a reason every pair of manifolds you see on ebay still have the hard line connected... That said I did chase the threads with an NPT tap and I see no reason some barbed or AN fittings could not be used if one was inclined to keep coolant flowing through them. Asking $100 for the pair.