Topics Last 30 Days

Over the last few weeks, i did some small things and collected a lot of stuff again. First, I exchanged my US-spec front lower valance. Before: And After: Euro spec valance: In case you're wondering, what's the difference? The euro spec has the additional mounting holes / nuts to install the Euro spec front spoiler lip. Here you can see the two side-by-side: This allowed me to temporary test fit my wobbly, worn-out, cheaply-repaired Euro spec front spoiler lip: I still need to change the corner valances to euro spec ones, but also the lip needs a replacement, as this one is beyond repair. But at least I could see how it will look: People often say they're impressed with what I'm able to find for purchase. But this time I even surprised myself. You might remember the Eaglemoss Fairlady Z Kit that I bought a while ago and came with a bunch of magazines? The set has dedicated folders / binders to put the magazines into. I always had two missing, so some of the magazines were stored "loosely". Luckily, I was able to find two unused Folders for exactly that kit in Japan: So all the magazines are now nicely stored: And my book shelve / archive looks much better :-) I also bought a small lot of vintage Datsun (Switzerland) Stickers. Some of which I haven't got yet in my collection: Then I also got a bunch of Documents: First, the Datsun Sports 311 Introduction Bulletin from 1967. Theoretically, it has nothing to do with my 240Z project. But with this car the FS5C71A transmission was introduced The original Overdrive transmission, used in a similar (albeit slightly different) configuration in the early EU-spec 240Z. To find information about it is a bit tricky. So when I saw that this booklet has more details about it, which I haven't seen before. I had to get it: Speaking of transmissions, I also got the Japanese Nissan Transmission service manual from 1974: This one includes the later FS5C71B transmission and some general information about Nissan transmissions, which is not found in the 240Z specific documentation: And then i also got another issue of the "Nissan Star", Swiss customer magazine from 1990, which always has cool insights into Nissan from those days: More to come soon.

I was able to buy an OE molded hose at a local swap meet, so -- even though I bought a length of 9mm (ID) braided hose from Bel-Metric for the purpose -- I never got around to trying out the idea. No reason why it shouldn't work, although you might not be able to make the straight braided hose flex quite enough to match the radius of the bends molded into the OE hose. Unless you're trying to build a concours winner, though, I doubt whether anyone would notice. CORRECTION: I just went down to the workshop and pulled out the hose that I bought from Bel-Metric. It's quite flexible and can be easily bent to match the curves of the molded OE hose... and without any signs of the walls collapsing. It also fits nicely over the nipple of the check valve (the one that fits between the engine-side and mastervac-side hoses). The actual ID of the Bel-Metric hose is 9.4mm, so the best size of copper tubing to use as an insert would be 5/16" OD (7.9mm). 3/8" (9.5mm) tube would be too big and I don't think you'll be able to find 11/32" (8.7mm). In any case, the quality of the fit doesn't matter much because there's no fluid flow happening here. It's just a vacuum hose. The only thing that would cause a problem would be if the hose walls collapsed or got pinched off. It's worth pointing out that the range of aftermarket replacement parts for Series 1 Z's has expanded quite a bit since 2019. Many items that used to be unobtanium (such as this engine-side MasterVac hose) are now quite readily available. Not cheap, though. The hose in question lists at ~ $80.00. That works out to about $100 per foot 😯-- a high price to pay for originality. A 3-ft length of 9mm braided hose from Bel-Metric costs about $15, so $5 per foot.

I am the 2nd owner of this car, I purchased it from the original owner in 1990. In talking to the original owner when I bought the car and a few times since I really doubt that the switch was upgraded/replaced and I know I didn't replace it. Since Datsun did a lot of work to increase production capability in 1970 it seems like that it is entirely possible that there were multiple production lines for the 240Z with lines being stocked with newer parts at different times as needed. Another difference on the interior of my car is my map light is hooded and some other 1970 built 240Z's I've seen the map light has no hood.

At the top of my list is that it does not have the 2400 valve cover. Did they talk about if the engine was original or not? Between the over 100K miles, the carbs, the fan, and the valve cover, I'm thinking not. So it's a historic car, but it would be a huge project. And the biggest hurdle to getting it to top level would be if the engine had been replaced and the original is not available.

It was Yellow when advertised on Craigslist 2017. This is #55381 and #55380 is also Yellow. On a color change, you usually do not see the backside of the pinch welds on the rockers - painted with a new body color. I can see the areas that appear to be white on the undercarriage...where paint appears to have been wore of scuffed off. White Primer maybe?

😝

So it's still not really clear just when the factory made the switch over to the wide-flange 11061-P0300. The fiche indicates either were possible up to 6/72. But the wide-flange 11061-P0300 does NOT have the extra hole @CanTechZ mentions. The housing with the extra hole showed up on the '73 models and is part number 11061-N3300. And it changed again for the L26 is is part number 11061-N3600.

That's the same as mine, door guards and all. Your paint looks a lot better though as mine has never had a respray. Yours's is my good vs bad comparison.

(kind of like the consistency of a dried-out hot-dog bun) That is exactly what I have. Thanks for the input.....now to get some bump stops.

Here's the switch from my 12/70 car #17486.

I liked the car. So, i put a comment.

Yes, I checked the rear sway bar, I replaced its bushings there too when I overhauled the suspension. Thanks for the tips! I ordered the mustache bar bushings. I will probably need to replace my clutch master/slaves - they are original. My 'freshly' (10 years ago) rebuilt 5-speed from a ZX is giving me fits while putting it into reverse. With no engine running, I can't force it into reverse. With the engine running, I can rev up and shift. I am suspecting my clutch is not fully engaging? I also noticed I am missing my upper-stop bumper for the clutch pedal. I can't find that rod with a rubber stop in my spare parts box anywhere. I think it looks like a hood bumper stop?

I like collecting this stuff. A few years back, a friend grabbed this old Nissan bag for me, from the Portland swap meet.

@Pat Horne Good luck.

Bump. I am still making the retainers and the magnets. Bearing retainer are for electronic pickup distributors from 1974 to 1978 and matchbox distributors from 1979 to 1983. They are slightly different. The matchbox distributor was used longer in Europe than in the USA so you may fid a matchbox distributor in a 1984, 85 86 vehicle overseas.

I really know nothing about these folks but they're local in the Salt Lake City area. JDM Legends – JDM Legends Store Here's a video they did a while back on a 1972 240Z restoration. JDM Legends - Season 1 Episode 1 - We Are JDM Legends - video Dailymotion

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

So you used the original ignition switch hardware and just replaced the electrical piece that attaches to the harness?

I didn't trust my ability to hermetically weld the tank. So I assisted a friend while he tacked it together. He then took it to a mutual friend with a TIG welder and finished it up. At this point, I poured more Red Kote into the tank and allowed it to flow over all of the seam. I let this sit for about a month to cure. Then, I sealed off all of the openings and blasted off the remainder of the external paint. Interestingly, there were dozens of small hidden rust spots beneath the paint. You couldn't see them through the paint. But when the media hit it, the paint would flake off, revealing a brown rusted spot. After blasting, ready for paint. I primed and painted it with Rust-oleum automotive paint in rattle cans. It turned out decent. No one will be looking at it. Note I didn't remove the original rubber blocks. They were stuck on really well, and not damaged. I did remove the original foam rubber piece near the sender hole because it was falling apart. I replaced it with a similarly-sized piece of 1/8" (3mm) thick EPDM rubber, just to make sure nothing would rattle. You can also see where I masked off the factory marking, just in case anyone might ever care if the tank was original. Lastly, I leak tested it by putting a few gallons of gasoline in it and allowing it to sit on each edge for 30 minutes. The sun was out, so the tank heated up and pressurized, which was a good sign. I'm happy to report that I've reinstalled the tank in the car, and it works fine. No leaks. And no more plastic gas can bugeed to the rear shelf.

I'm all LED except for the dash. I used a couple of these from Amazon for blinkers and emergency flashers and they've worked just fine since I installed them back in 2017. Amazon.com: VOFONO 2-Pin Electric Flasher Relay, 12V Heavy Duty 2 Pin Compatible Automobile Motorcycle Bike Scooter Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Fast Hyper Flash，Two Prong Round : Automotive

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

YES!! Glad to have you back :)

Wow! 😝

April 1970

Got it, I'll give it a look. Thanks!