Topics Last 30 Days

This pic is from a mid-1970 car. I believe it is original. (I have no reason to believe otherwise):

Her name was Elizabeth.

After receiving a box of parts back from the vapor honer, I noticed that the two lower thermostat housings I had are different. One came from a 72, the other I am not sure. I believe the one on the left is part number 11061-P0300, which the microfiche indicates was used on 1973's. So I suspect the one on the right, having lighter-duty top and head flanges, is 11061-E3000 and is for 70-72. Can anyone confirm? What's on your original early 240Z's?

If it were mine, I would call Rich... @motorman7

Would be nice to have more details on your EFI upgrade. Maybe a separate thread...

Thanks, that would be great! I'll wait to see if he replies. The fellow who is building Roadster electronic distributors might be interested in buying some or making some. Peace, Pat

Namerow, Were you successful with the braided hose? Keith

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

So you used the original ignition switch hardware and just replaced the electrical piece that attaches to the harness?

I didn't trust my ability to hermetically weld the tank. So I assisted a friend while he tacked it together. He then took it to a mutual friend with a TIG welder and finished it up. At this point, I poured more Red Kote into the tank and allowed it to flow over all of the seam. I let this sit for about a month to cure. Then, I sealed off all of the openings and blasted off the remainder of the external paint. Interestingly, there were dozens of small hidden rust spots beneath the paint. You couldn't see them through the paint. But when the media hit it, the paint would flake off, revealing a brown rusted spot. After blasting, ready for paint. I primed and painted it with Rust-oleum automotive paint in rattle cans. It turned out decent. No one will be looking at it. Note I didn't remove the original rubber blocks. They were stuck on really well, and not damaged. I did remove the original foam rubber piece near the sender hole because it was falling apart. I replaced it with a similarly-sized piece of 1/8" (3mm) thick EPDM rubber, just to make sure nothing would rattle. You can also see where I masked off the factory marking, just in case anyone might ever care if the tank was original. Lastly, I leak tested it by putting a few gallons of gasoline in it and allowing it to sit on each edge for 30 minutes. The sun was out, so the tank heated up and pressurized, which was a good sign. I'm happy to report that I've reinstalled the tank in the car, and it works fine. No leaks. And no more plastic gas can bugeed to the rear shelf.

I'm all LED except for the dash. I used a couple of these from Amazon for blinkers and emergency flashers and they've worked just fine since I installed them back in 2017. Amazon.com: VOFONO 2-Pin Electric Flasher Relay, 12V Heavy Duty 2 Pin Compatible Automobile Motorcycle Bike Scooter Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Fast Hyper Flash，Two Prong Round : Automotive

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

YES!! Glad to have you back :)

Wow! 😝

April 1970

Got it, I'll give it a look. Thanks!

Some options to investigate: https://upgarageusa.com/pages/nos-parts-we-have-instock-for-1969-1995-z-cars https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-260z-front-bumper-guard-over-rider-strip-kit-69-72/ https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/front-bumper-over-rider-vertical-strip-set-for-datsun-240z I believe I have a spare set of aftermarket ones as well - I think of decent quality. Let me know if you would like to see some pics of them.

If someone is looking for an original Bosch version of the 280Z auxilary air valve here is one in NOS condition. Its for a 1976 Porsche 924, but it's a very similar system. Marktplaats≥ Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88) — Motor en...Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88)Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924-Porsche 924, 2.0liter-Voor koude start regeling (lucht)-Bosch-Getest en

They definitely were. Did that cause the brakes pads to tighten on the rotors? There was some brake dust everywhere. I ended up doing 3 things at once, flushing the brake fluid. Disassembled the calipers, and repack and set the wheel bearings correctly. The wheel bearings heating up may have caused air in the brake fluid to expand and tighten the brakes, I don't know. I just finished it off by adjusting the pedal to the floorboard distance, it was 7", now it's 8". Same with the clutch pedal, it was an inch off. Then set the master-vac push rod length to 3.5mm below the flange surface. I had backed everything off while 15 miles away trying to get home, not knowing what was going on. Things are looking good now.

So I just did these seals on a manual transmission. The large Oring seal seals the drive body to the transmission case. I'm not sure the little top hat seal would seal anything out. The small square sided seal goes inside the speedometer gear drive body. It seals the speedometer cog shaft. If this seal gets hard or goes bad, liquid leaks up into the cable housing until it finds a way out. Usually a crack in the speedo cable housing. I replaced mine and the floor under the car has stayed dry. I will have to check the fluid levels again soon to make sure it's still full but I believe those two seals are the solution

Gang - I'm also in a classic British car restoration forum and they had a really cool thread idea that I wanted to bring here: Did you buy your Datsun brand new and you still own it to this day? If so, please post the oldest photo of you & your car in this thread, and maybe write a little story about what prompted you to buy it at the time! * Also welcome in this thread are stories & photos from Z owners where another family member (parent, grandparent, etc) bought the car new and it has stayed in the family until present day Looking forward to reading your story! I know @jfa.series1 has one!

I was given one of those years back for Christmas! That went straight in the can!😂

Darn it, you locked in my grammar error. One the. It has the same mileage now as when it had dual filters. That's good, for the engine.

I am about to start on the task of adjusting the profile of my Hitachi SU needles (I have SM needles installed). I read this thread in preparation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59153-modified-su-carb-needles-for-l28/ @240260280 has detailed knowledge on the subject which is impressive! I wish I had the tools and knowledge to do what he knows should be done. Instead of measuring vacuum, etc. as referenced there, I am thinking about rigging up a camera to record a video of the piston movement under certain real world scenarios. For that recording, I am thinking of putting black marker lines on the piston that equate to the station positions on the needle. For the real world scenarios, I would like to record a series of various part throttle applications. I am hopeful that I can locate a specific range of the needle that will need to be modified. Very generally, I believe I have good AFRs at idle, and cruise (at 50 mph for example), and at wide open throttle. On the other hand, I have lean or very lean conditions at part throttle and during closed throttle deceleration (accompanied by popping in the exhaust). I will be making some more AFR reference runs before I attempt to modify the needles to confirm. But then, I am hoping to record the videos, and remove a miniscule amount of material from the "pick up" needle stations. The segment of the needle I need to modify should be confirmed by reviewing the video. Anyone have additional recommendations or thoughts?