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1980 Ground Up, DATSUN 280ZX. Body completely disassembled, stripped of all paint, undercoated with POR15 & painted. No damage or rust. ENGINE; L28 with Euro-Top pistons, P79 head, ported & polished and CC`d. 60mm throttle body, custom intake manifold both Jet Coated, custom fuel rail with 14mm o-ring injectors. Wolf 3D engine management system with 6 Denso Coils, sequentially triggered. Center Force light weight flywheel & clutch. SUSPENSION; Polyurethene Bushing, KYB shocks, Suspension Technique sway bars, R200 differential 3.54.1, Panasport Wheels F15x6, R15x7. 8,302 miles since rebuild. Not driven in the rain. All receipts available. Much more $18,000.00

Guess I'll put it here as this is, at least to this old buzzard, the path of least resistance After almost 190,000 miles and a bit of bearing noise I decided to give the 5 speed in my 78 280 the business and @ the same time address all of the related issues. At the risk of glazing the eyes of my audience I promise to be brief. I had the rear engine plate powder coated - yes, I know it was clear zinc plated from the factory but I wanted to see what my very excellent powder coater could do and the results are very satisfactory - removed 4 pounds from the stock 24 pound flywheel, had the now lightened flywheel balanced along with a new pressure plate, replaced the rear engine seal, clutch assy - used the Exedy set for probably the 100th + time in my career - flywheel and pressure plate fasteners, ALL of the trans bearings, 2nd and 3rd gear syncros, seals and gasket and had all of the related fasteners, etc. zinc replated. This past Sat I drove the 350 mile round trip to Import Carlisle - touched 100 MPH for a couple of seconds - without a hint of concern. I got those trans parts I could from Nissan - yes, I know there are some cheaper alternatives but I like the guys at my fav dealer. Those bearings that are NLA from Nissan I got from a company in Japan, Amayma. They, Amayma, provide excellent service and excellent prices for parts in the original Nissan packaging. Way back in 1971 the dealer I was working for sent me to Datsun trans school. The school held @ Datsun eastern headquarters in Secaucus, NJ. The dealer provided me with a NEW, just off the boat, 510 2 door for transportation. Yes, a new 510 2 door was capable of an indicated 100+. We were provided lunch at what was, I'm confident, a mob owned restaurant. Our instructor told us we could order ANYTHING on the menu but if we wanted lobster we had to give one day notice. Those were the days.

I would guess that either are fine shocks. The biggest difference is the Koni's are adjustable.

I'm still waiting on a response as to why it's my fault that the door latch holes were in the wrong place and the door panel won't go over the ledge. I will say the door weatherstrips fit great and the rubber fuel filler neck fit perfectly so you do sell good parts. Just not these doors. Keep in mind I reverse engineer items and create foundry patterns based off of that gathered data. That is my business. I also reverse engineer fabricated items and make them into castable items. So when I say these doors have a problem and when I say your QC is nonexistent and when I say they aren't using welding fixtures to locate critical weld in place nuts and when I say they aren't using drilling fixtures for holes in critical areas you can take that to the bank. Because people pay me to do this. I just happen to have a Z car and I'm also a manufacturer of parts for these cars. Max you keep stating how many items you have sold as a baseline to the quality of the parts. I specifically said to you in our first conversation on the phone, how many of the 30 door sets that you sold are still sitting on someones shelf. Have you sent emails out to everyone who have purchased doors warning them of potential problems or are you just kicking the can down the road hoping for the best.

Same set up as used on the 510 wagon!

You are correct in using this product to seal affected areas but only after the rust has been treated. From the product description: APPLICATION - Remove grease, oil, and other foreign substances using POR-15 water-based Cleaner Degreaser followed with POR-15 Metal Prep to etch the surface and neutralize rust. Stir POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating thoroughly, DO NOT SHAKE. Always apply thin coats, minimum of two. May be recoated or top coated when dry to the touch, typically 2 to 5 hours. Topcoat when surface will have exposure to UV light.

Found it. SOB. It was with the extra freeze plugs I have. Fun times! Lol. Thank you for the replies. And yes, turning the pump CCW. Gonna shoot for having it all buttoned back up by Saturday. Wish me luck!

1970. Bring a TrailerL28-Powered, 24-Years-Owned 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I 5-S...Bid for the chance to own a L28-Powered, 24-Years-Owned 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #193,538.

I used a big flat head screwdriver and put the edge of the blade in the slots

Those look nice! Cost? Where to order?

On June 20-22, Classic Sports Racing Group (CSRG) will host the Corkscrew Classic vintage race at Laguna Seca. Z Car Garage will participate and support several client’s Datsun 510 race cars running in B-Sedan Group 3. It will be a great weekend filled with competition, camaraderie and plenty of Alfas, BMWs and Datsuns sharing the track. Remember to bring your family and friends as admission is FREE for spectators! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/19D723D0-B395-46AB-85CB-D50930271B88.jpg Hoosier Tire 2.5 Challenge http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/SnapInsta.to_491443933_2755382734672778_1744548345452898412_n.jpg CSRG will be featuring the Hoosier 2.5 Challenge TA/BS. This is an action-packed race group with B-Sedans battling for points in the series! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/SnapInsta.to_475522665_898084419063046_5303664117389470980_n.jpg Watch these Datsuns Race! Want a glimpse of what it’s like to see Datsuns racing at Laguna Seca? Check out our 2024 race report with video and photos: HERE, and view a sample of cars expected to race June 20 at the Corkscrew Classic: Race car driver, restorer and Datsun Historian Glenn Chiou in his FAR Performance 240Z. This Z has a very rich racing history, driven in the 70’s by Loren St. Lawrence in VIPS Restaurant livery. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Snapinsta.app_447213392_3677928062523087_8650031073483389271_n_1024.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_0595.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC1943.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/IMG_2733.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/IMG_2628.jpg View the full article

Opinions please! @zKars @grannyknot @Diseazd @madkaw @Mark Maras and all you other CZC's readers. I was thinking around $200 for the bare head? I found a P90 that pushed this E31 to the kid's table.

Richard, I have been using Vredestein Sprint Classic 175HR14 88H on my ‘71 series1 Z and they are pretty much a perfect size match to the Bridgestone Super Speed Radial - 20 original tires.

This is what is so fantastic about this site and the rare types of parts that are needed and pretty much unavailable to purchase new. Thanks to everyone for helping to keep these Ladies on the road!

What condition is your EFI harness? Have you replaced all of the connectors? I fought it forever. Finally reworked and soldered each connector, cleaned each contact and was amazed.

Update….. wound up stripping all the recently applied paint off 2446 due to ……well… a misunderstanding of the quality expected is a nice way to put it… New paint….better prep, better paint ….more controlled environment to apply has resulted in a more better virtually perfect paint reapplication. Have rebuilt, restored the quarter trim of both 51 and vin 2446 …. Polished up up few sets for future use. Vin 51 is in the same boat of unsatisfactory paint application….. soon to address that as well….. Cleaned up and flipped over the dash front cover trim, of 2446, I’m believing this is the true color “light greenish”… of both this part and possibly the correct hue of green for horns as well? Comments?

Those are some really nice upgrades to the base model examples. Were there "pre-package" Euro deliveries which did not have some of these package features, or were they pretty much all grey market from Australia & elsewhere? Also, which of the described features were on all of the Euro deliveries, or were things like spoilers an extra cost option?

That sounds pretty good. The front of the car takes a pretty heavy beating over time as well. So, agree with Grannynot - part of the hood. You may want to do the front surfaces of the headlight housings and the three front lower panels as well. I think below the blue lines here: I think it best not to cut the edge so it is on the radius of a body line. Instead, I would cut it at the beginning of where starts to roll from flat... so about a 1/8th of an inch below that body line above. With flares, you will need to do something with the front of the rear flares as well. My track Z started getting beat up there quickly. I put electrical tape on (I like the silver and black contrast). I planned on getting something like the Porsche 930 has, but just never have. If you need to go with clear, consider doing something like this on the quarter panel. It will be visible. On the Z you may want to go from the front edge of the quarter panel (door opening) and along the 'waist line' body line... go far enough back to cover the front third of the flare and radius/curve the top edge down, so the PPF terminates covering about the front 1/4 to 1/3rd of the flare surface. The top and front edges of PPF will collect a bit of dirt over time. Just something to be aware of.

I installed the front grill today. As you can see, the paint is a little darker than the original, but I am not interested in painting it for a third time, especially since I have a wrist cast for the next six weeks. Interestingly, when in the sunlight, the original paint does appear to be metallic. The metallic particles seem smaller, less noticeable, but they do reflect. This is not easy to capture in a photo (second pic here): Original grill hardware:

Thanks guys. I really don't want to get rid of her but life is getting expensive. I have a kiddo who will be going to college in 3 years and I'm in a house with a very small garage. One day I'll have a big garage or shop again and I'm sure that's the point I'll regret letting her go.

Nice new ride!

My son has a 72 240Z that he was trying to restore. Last I talked with him, however, it sounded like he was giving up. It needs a number of areas adjacent to both rear wheels and there could be more patch work. With the wheel area he keeps saying that it is inclusive of the structural areas...and we may have the equipment, but nobody is a good welder/sheet metal worker. I was wondering if there are any recommended folks in Seattle that you all have used. Appreciate it Bob Weaver

Looking for a set of 15 x 6 American Vector wheels for 280 Z

Hey, I just wanted to follow up in case anyone was wondering—turns out it was the ECU/computer after all. Swapped it out all those years ago, and everything has been running perfectly. Appreciate your advice to test instead of just guessing. Helped me narrow it down and get it fixed a lot quicker. Thanks for the help!

Free -- you cover the cost of shipping and PayPal fee. Complete set of front and rear calipers for a 280ZX (S130). What you see is what you get...some mounting hardware, some (worn) pads, no rotors or soft lines. Year unknown, working condition unknown. Snagged these a couple years ago on FB Marketplace "just in case I might need them". Turns out I don't. Unless you have a preferred shipper that you can send me an account number/prepaid shipping label/etc; I will ship these flat rate USPS. I can fit everything into a single Large flat-rate box, but it's a heavy sucker. Safer approach might be two Medium flat-rate boxes. Thanks for looking.