Topics Last Week

The brake booster tool is nice. That's a nice find!

Maybe it needs a better module ground. And/or heat sink. The module looks like the typical GM module that grounds through the mounting points, and sinks heat through the contact of the bottom with the mounting surface.

Don't assume that new aftermarket u-joints will be better/tighter than used Nissan joints. Nissan's specification is very precise. Each joint came with clips of varying thickness so that play could be adjusted and set correctly. New aftermarket joints come with one clip thickness for all. I replaced a set on my car and they didn't seem any better. I actually removed them all and returned them. They were Precision from O'Reilly's. The Nissan joints are greaseable and are often just fine after a shot of new grease.

What would be the reason for avoiding the coil power supply if a relay is used? If you're using an internally regulated alternator and it's wired correctly the L(amp) wire might work if you connect between the diode and the alternator. Or, since you've rewired for the ZX alternator there might be a leftover wire that was used for the regulator. You probably used L but did you use IG? Might just be sitting there waiting for you.

Pretty much rust free pieces from a 70 . Drivers side A pillar section and B pillar section . I won’t need these for my project . 250$ shipped for both

I just wanted to chime in, since I'm also a member of S30 World, a later edition, so not in the group photo with Takeo Miyazaki, which took place when the museum opened. However I am thrilled to have been asked to join in and represent the Australian part of the team, as mentioned Chris' goal is to ensure we have a global perspective on these cars and I've been the local train spotter in the Australian market for many years now, having got into my first S30Z back in the late 90s and joined this website in year 2000 I believe? I am also the owner of a couple of low vin # Australian delivered cars - which have their own unique differences. Even though I've been passionate about the S30Z for 25+ years, I still have things to learn, especially when it comes to cars delivered to markets outside Australia. I think we are all still learning, which is why the S30 world project and website is important, to help educate, discover and document. I'm also thrilled that through the restoration work Chris has spearheaded new parts have come to market to provide quality OEM-like reproduction bits and pieces (eg: fuel tanks and door seals just to name a couple). I was fortunate enough to see the quality of work first hand back in 2017, a local Australian had his car in display at the Nissan Datsun Nationals in Sydney. (attached photos). I've seen many 'restored' cars over the years and this was indeed top notch! Obviously not a 'factory style' restoration, but a superb finish none the less. The quality of finish achieved on cars completed since then has only improved! On a personal level, I feel the S30Z series have been greatly under appreciated for many years, however it would appear that more and more are starting to appreciate these cars these days and I'm very happy to see more cars getting quality restoration work performed at this level.

Cats can stop up and restrict the exhaust

This is the one I used with LED lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0811GTVH2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Its a long shot, but putting a feeler out for a 3.364 R200. Looks like only the '79 4 seater manual transmission s130s had them stateside.

Thanks for that. We set the plug #1 position by TDC and the rotor position. So we ended up with that L20 positioning through our methodology by accident

@Mike It's still a bot!!

You should never disassemble both sides at the same time! That way you have an assembled one to look at. If you didn't keep the parts well sorted then the auto adjust might not work. The sides are handed I believe

I don't have access to any cars at the moment to work a design out- the challenge would be to get a tight seal. It probably why my mate who has one said keep them out of the rain and if it is outside park it up hill. Think he was being a bit tongue in cheek.

That would be nice, only give me a heads up, the meter uses one big 1,5V battery and the new one that came in the case with it was a bit...empty! Luckely it wasn't IN the battery compartment as it was well rusted haha! The battery contacts have never seen a battery i think as they are flawless! Dit keer lag het wél aan de VARTA! ;-) Translated : This time it WAS the battery from VARTA that was dead! Once there was a commercial in the Netherlands of Varta that said: it can't be the battery because that's a VARTA! ;-) but they don't hold for 40+ years!

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.

Hoping someone out there, preferably in the Midwest, has a front & rear type 2 set for the ZX that they'd like to part with. Can be damaged/cracked as well. Would be willing to meet somewhere as well. Thanks.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

My 78 280Z does not have that bumper stop. I’ve got a couple from ZCD. If any one is interested send a pm.

Is it Charles ? My memory is short . I’d refer you to my thread on Hybridz . I managed to document a lot on there . I also have a thread on the Megasquirt install there . Ask away about anything you read HybridZ3.2 Build EFI N42 / MN47

to last, they need to be welded really good and probably not just around the outer edge but somewhere internally to prevent flexing. Flexing there will eventually cause cracks just like the cars get sometimes at the upper rear qtr to roof joint

I was able to get M4-.7 x 20 oval head screws locally but had to paint the heads with gloss black rattle can. Needed fasteners to hold the A/C control panel on the ICF but no one has oval head thread cutting screws the right size. Ended up getting #6 x 3/4" wood screws which were also painted gloss black. Used a #6 countersink drill bit to prepare the plastic panels I fabricated (pix will follow soon). Looks great when assembled on my workbench and now looking forward to getting everything attached to the car.

I’ll have to recheck my setting for my stroker but I think my fan comes on at 185 and goes off at 180 ? I have an ECU so it turns on my fans at a lower setting at 185 and full speed at 195 .

Yeah, Im not convinced myself. This is their latest youtube video featuring the shell. As Alan mentioned above at the end of the day a Datsun with a body made in China isnt a Datsun anymore!