siteunseen

I plugged mine off but it doesn't get very cold down here. Less chances off leaking, losing coolant was my main reason. Lots of info in these threads... https://www.google.com/search?q=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=77dc914585b7f4b2&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=1oETafjINaKHp84P-LudoAw&ved=0ahUKEwj4i8S_3uqQAxWiw8kDHfhdB8QQ4dUDCBM&oq=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLXBsdWdnaW5nIHdhdGVyIHRvIGNhcmJzIDI0MHogY2xhc3NpY3pjYXJzLmNvbTIFEAAY7wUyCBAAGKIEGIkFMgUQABjvBTIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FSJZBUOkFWKcfcAF4AJABAJgBlgGgAcYIqgEDMC45uAEMyAEA-AEBmAIKoALsCMICDhAAGIAEGLADGIYDGIoFwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgIKECEYoAEYwwQYCsICCBAhGKABGMMEmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcDMS45oAfSHLIHAzAuObgH5wjCBwUwLjguMsgHFA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

It looks like roof cement. 😁 I would use alcohol or lacquer thinner on a rag and wipe it to see if it stains the rag black. POR-15 shouldn't wipe off.

Your work is getting results. Congratulations! Keep on marching.

That stiff choke could be the hoses on the nozzles. From what I've learned the choke is actually just dropping the nozzles, no closing of the butterflies like most chokes. I bought one a few years ago somebody had put stiff fuel line from float chambers to the nozzles. It was so hard to pull the lever back I broke where the pull handle connects under the console. Lucky for me they make a better bracket that mounts to the sheet metal tunel. Z Car Depot IncChoke Lever Mounting Plate Reinforcement 240ZChoke Lever Mounting Plate Reinforcement 240Z - 800-733 (). Choke and console reinforcement plate for use on Datsun 240Z 1972 to 1973 that use the series 2 console where the choke lever was shifted toAnd I would try clamping off the return and see what that does. At worst the fuel will come out the overflow bungs on the lids. I've seen people run the overflow hoses into a empty drink bottle or a big medicine bottle to keep fuel off your engine. I apologize if I'm confusing your work. I just read the forum a lot and throw stuff out hoping it could help the problem. Cliff

@Captain Obvious do you know if the fuel rail for flat tops work with earlier carbs?

One more thing you should look at as a possible weak link. The hose that goes from the float chamber to the nozzle has to be soft. Off the shelf 3/16 fuel line doesn't work too good. Another thing on the no start is the linkage has to be just right between the carbs. Those flat stops can look right but be out of order.

I'm taking a year off from life. 99% of the bad ones are from pushing to fast to get back to work. Not me, I enjoy being at home.

Is the return restricted on the flat tops like it is on my '72? Easier saying, does the fuel rail for flat tops need changing to the one that is for 3 screw domes? Did you change the fuel rail? Maybe they are different.

I'm with you on older is better but when my "newer" "fireball" coil goes to sh**...I'll be walking home on my brand new artificial knee. I ran the old one for 55 years and that SOB just quit.

Walter Moore is the one that did the work. Distributor advance curves revision 1-2.xls

Everything looks good. I just need to start over with the basic tune up. The dizzy I have says 17 and 34 with full advance. I used that excel spreadsheet someone made for all the distributors. My markings show it to be a '79 dizzy. It's ran great until I pulled the plugs and "cleaned them". The car has sat since my knee surgery almost a year now. I haven't done anything since but trying to get back to normal but I admit my priorities have changed. I'm going to get a set of bpr6es and leave that big ZX gap out of it. I read a pretty sensible thread on keeping the gap to the head not the distributor. So I'll try .035 to start then see what that does. I know carbs need protruding tips so I'll go with that. Thank you for the help!