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[2016] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?

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What's your plan to keep the timing right with the shave?  Are you going to use shims under the towers or adjust the timing and chain?  If you do the latter, PM me and I'll tell you exactly how I did mine.  I shaved 0.50" and didn't use tower shims.

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I will use shims. The head was shaved 0.5 mm by the previous owner and had shimes under the towers so that was my plan. 

I have the shims already.

Hope it workes.

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I put in a new battery and fired it up - started up immediately even though it had been sitting for some time.  Prior to the old battery going dead, I had noticed a clicking coming from the front of the car when driving - speed of the clicking increased with the speed of the car.  Today, the clicking became a clunking and the Z is now parked in the driveway.  Couldn't see anything loose or hanging by the wheels.  Maybe a bad 45 year old wheel bearing?

Dennis

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I don't think so.  I only drove about 15 feet out of the driveway and then backed in.  It sounded like one clunk with each revolution of the front wheel.

Dennis

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 Yeah, it's probably a wheel bearing. On the positive side, It gave up while it was home, not miles away and it's a cheap, easy repair. BTW, A LONG pin punch is useful for removing the outer races.

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I'm  going to check with my mechanic this morning to see when I can get into his shop.  I've "aged out" from many of the do it yourself fixes I used to take care of.  Hopefully just the wheel bearing.

Dennis

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 I totally understand the "aging out" syndrome. Physical projects take a little longer to accomplish, recovery time takes a lot longer. The really difficult projects, I call on my son, Alex. He's fun to work with. We tend to be competitive with each other and love nothing better than to see the other person screw up or take longer than he should. All in good fun and a great way for him to learn about Zs. He drives an 81 RX7.

 Hope your mechanic can get to it soon. I doubt it's anything more than wheel bearings.

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3 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

  Hope your mechanic can get to it soon. I doubt it's anything more than wheel bearings.

My mechanic is booked until next Monday.  So it will be a few days before I know the cause of the noise.  I'm just glad to have a mechanic that works on older imports.  Sounds like your son is eager to learn and enjoys a good challenge.  My child never got too interested in the care and feeding of sports cars.  Fortunately, he makes a good living doing classified things for three letter government agencies so he can pay someone to work on his car.

Dennis

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On 2016-03-11 at 0:43 PM, siteunseen said:

Will you be bolting the header up before dropping the motor back in? I'm at that stage now and can't decide. Any advice would be great.

Cliff

I did put an engine in last year and actualy did bolt the header before it is a lot easyer to bolt on and there is plenty of room

when you dump it in. For those that now the story i will put the engine back again next week or so and will do exact same.

 

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On 1/1/2016 at 7:07 PM, 240Ziggy said:

It's already been one full year, where has the time go? I'm working on my son's '70 240Z.  Luckily we found an OEM driver's side inner fender in Vermont and got it in time for Christmas! Replacing the inner fender and frame rail.

L_InnerFender_1.jpg

 

L_InnerFender_2.jpg

 

L_InnerFender_3.jpg

 

L_InnerFender_4.jpg

Hi Ho Hi Ho, Its Off To Weld We Go!!
Uh Oh, So Many More Years To Go Go!!

hahaha Happy New Year!!

 

I am truly inspired. I thought replacing floors was labor intensive! KICK arse MAN!

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image.jpegLots of time spent on getting the lashpads size correct. 

But its now getting closer to drop the engine back in.

image.jpeg

 

image.jpeg

Edited by moelk

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Didn't do anything to mine today. First official day of spring break for my two sons. Need to get another argon for the welder and finish rebuilding the hatch panel that was just about completely non-existent. A little more sandblasting underneath and I will be able to begin the reassembly process. Two little boys take up lots of project timeIMG_20140101_192728_346.jpg

IMG_20151113_170321_715.jpg

IMG_20140101_192655_560.jpg

IMG_20131221_191134_892.jpg

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27 minutes ago, esmit208 said:

Two little boys take up lots of project time

 Yes, but they're worth it

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I was not sure what manifold gasket to use with this ported E31 head. So I laid the old Felpro N42 to overlay on the E31.

I think another new N42 gasket will be just fine. Now I can keep moving ahead.

IMG_20160328_145735.jpg

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I finally mounted the 240Z style rear bumper on the 260Z. I bought the bumper brackets from @DatsunSpirit. I did need to slot the brackets slightly. For that I took a rotary rasp to the brackets. It didn't take long for the holes to line up perfectly. I measured the location for the mounts on the quarter panels and drilled holes. At that point, it was pretty much just tightening up the bolts.

However, I did have one minor scare. To bolt on the right side quarter panel mount, I needed to remove the access panel in the wheel well. As I started to loosen the lug nuts on the right rear tire, I found one just finger tight. That may explain the vibration I have been experiencing over and above the issue with loose driveshaft bolts. I hope to get some photos posted tomorrow.

GEDC0434.JPG

Edited by SteveJ
Tagging Datsun Spirit
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58 minutes ago, Lumens said:

I was not sure what manifold gasket to use with this ported E31 head. So I laid the old Felpro N42 to overlay on the E31.

I think another new N42 gasket will be just fine. Now I can keep moving ahead.

IMG_20160328_145735.jpg

I highly reccomend nissan # 14035-E4610 manifold gasket. $15 from my local dealership. Took a couple of days though but fit and finish is fantastic. Here's mine on ported E-31. Felpro is fine but don't stop short now. 8^)

 

1459218839391.jpg

1459218711695.jpg

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1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

I highly recommend nissan # 14035-E4610 manifold gasket. $15 from my local dealership. Took a couple of days though but fit and finish is fantastic. Here's mine on ported E-31. Felpro is fine but don't stop short now. 8^)

Good idea. I think I will go that way. Thanks!!

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17 hours ago, moelk said:

image.jpegLots of time spent on getting the lashpads size correct. 

But its now getting closer to drop the engine back in.

image.jpeg

 

image.jpeg

Just curious, what brand are you using for springs and retainers?

The lashpads seem to sit pretty high. I only had experience with stock and Isky

retainers so far. I just bought the Schneiter springs and retainers but not installed yet.

On the Isky retainers we found just the opposite. Lashpads sat too deep.

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I bought the Schnider kit from msa. 

Lashpads i was sent were in size 190 but i had to grind some of them to get the proper wipe pattern.

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1 minute ago, moelk said:

I bought the Schnider kit from msa. 

Lashpads i was sent were in size 190 but i had to grind some of them to get the proper wipe pattern.

That's what they sent me too!  Did you just run them over a flat file until you got them down enough?

Thanks for any advice.

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Mesured as good as I could then I dropped the ones that needed grinding of at a shop. 

Took the last bit of with a flat file.

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I just thought of something!  I can put them on the sides of my grinding wheel, they're nice and flat and not too aggressive, then the flat file.

Thank you so much!  I needed that little push.

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