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About skunkbud280Z

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  1. and I was using locking pliers on the other side as counter torque. And I sprayed it with WD-40 at least 10 times and left it for a few days before trying again to loosen it. The fitting began to round off on the flare-nut with just a modest amount of torque/counter torque so I went ballistic on the fitting with a 2nd vice grip. Locking it down as hard as I could and it STILL slips(slipped) on the fitting. It's frozen in place, hasn't been touched in 32 years. I've done so much damage to the outside of the fitting at this point I've chewed up half of the metal on the fitting with the vice
  2. I'll get one soon out of gratitude for this great website! Money's tight for me right now unfortunately and I've got major brake repairs to do on this car. Brakes seem to bleed but no pressure. Got one bad wheel cylinder, and I'm almost sure my master cylinder is shot. Z-shop told me it was going bad over 12 years ago and I neglected it when the brakes still worked. My car drank a lot of fluid when I was bleeding the brakes and the fluid level in the rear-brake reservoir is going fast, and losing some fluid from the front reservoir as well. With NO fluid anywhere spilled on the floor, I
  3. Hope you fellow S30 Z fans enjoy these old advertisements as much as I did.
  4. 11/75 and the same plate. Oh I like your car! Thanks for linking. Not that I'm partial or anything... wait, yes I am! We chose virtually the same air dam and spoiler it looks like.
  5. suggests that the only change made between 1975 and 1976 was that the ammeter was changed to a voltmeter. And it lists the 1975 engine at 149 HP. It doesn't explicitly state that the power was increased in 1977 but it strongly implies it if you take the wording as it sounds. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/nissan-z-history3.htm What I'm curious about, if anyone has a 1975 280Z, is what does your plaque under your hood say regarding your engine's HP? If Nissan didn't raise power to 170 till 1977, why does it say that on our cars? If they raised it in 1976 then Howstuffworks is wrong, as is a
  6. Didn't think to use Wiki for some reason. So all these fabled cars I always gawked over like the '69 Hurst/Olds with their ~400HP ratings were pared back a great deal due to how they measured horsepower differently. Still doesn't explain the extra 21 HP like you said. Could Nissan have reverted back to Gross Horsepower in 1976, where they hadn't done so in prior years? Or were they always using GrossHP in those prior years?
  7. Okay I know this has been brought up and discussed before and I read the old threads and talked to different sources through the years and I'm as confused as ever. Let me see if I can put some supposed puzzle pieces down that I've heard about regarding 280Z's horsepower (and generally all the classic Zs). 1975 the 280Z came out. Sources speak of the engine having 149 HP. Okay. 1976 some online sources don't speak of anything different with the engine. I have a metal plate under the hood that says 170 HP. I was talking to the owner of one Z shop locally and he was saying "oh yeah we can co
  8. That thing was so tight I'm going to have to tap the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen it to take it off again. And I hope I can remove it with the tank left installed. I would guess I can but I dunno. Not worried about fuel coming out, just clearance.
  9. In my own layman's vocabulary: There is a sliding surface that moves between two terminals. It moves across a number of "winds" or metal coils, making contact with them. When the tank is near empty the sliding surface touches less of those winds, and when the tank is near full the surface touches more of them. Presuming higher resistance indicates greater fuel level. So now that (I think) I get the fundamentals better, what could be wrong with this thing... Of note, I did some shaking of the tank before I installed it because when I was carrying the tank out to be installed, I heard a
  10. It is a resistance reading that moves the gauge. At a certain level of resistance or higher the gauge is going to read full, I have to assume irrespective to what position the float is in. It was somewhat rusty when I pulled it out. Not as bad as the one you're showing in the pictures. It was more spotty with rust than scaley. I used a rust remover gel (a phosphoric-acid based naval jelly) on the (larger) rusty surfaces and rinsed it off. What I didn't do is try to clean the corrosion around the wires. It looked delicate there, there is a very fine metal wire on this that I wouldn't ev
  11. That maybe I put it in upside down? If I put the float opposite the way I put it in there, it would be in a more elevated position as it sits in the tank. That didn't make sense to me. The float would sit in a low position with an empty tank thereby reading empty, and rise with the fuel level. I guess it's possible I put the thing in there wrong but common sense still tells me I didn't. But you asked "rightside" up or down. If I remember correctly and I think I do, the float was connected on the arm that was on the right side (passenger's side) and it was in a down or low position (as
  12. I always wanted a 240Z, wound up with a 280Z, fell in love with the 300ZX Twin Turbo in 1990 when I read Motor Trend's article. I even won a $20 bet that the new Z would smoke the Ford Mustang, which was a big deal back then as I was just a kid. But anyway, I posted a video on youtube hybridizing two old Nissan ads for the Z32 over some Filter music. My old title for the vid was talking about Barbie and Ken and I think I attracted some pre-teen girls who didn't think very fondly of my participation in the youtube community. Anyway I thought some of you fellow Z-heads would appreciate it mo
  13. but I didn't replace the sending unit or change the wires in mine. I disconnected the keyed pins at the tank and removed the float apparatus when the tank was off and being cleaned out. My car hadn't run in about 10 years. It's running now but the voltmeter still reads zero and the fuel gauge still reads full. Because the battery is brand new, the fuel tank has 3 gallons in it, and the gauge is useless reading like this, I just unplugged it. I'm not sure if I placed the float inside the tank incorrectly. I placed it horizontally to the surface of the fuel in its lowest position, assuming
  14. If the owners dry this market up a little bit then the prices will rise. I agree, they go too cheaply, so stop selling them that way! If I had a '70 240Z in mint condition, either someone would be paying me $35-40k or someone wouldn't be buying my Z. Put another way, part of working the market is passive. That is, we get the accepted "values" for things from the aggregate market forces we are slave to, and concede to them in our buys and our sells. This is observed by nearly everyone as is evident by reading the replies in this thread. The other part, and this part is often completely overl
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