madkaw

If you don’t know how much them what shims would you use. You could measure the head thickness and figure from there- but I wouldn’t bother . I’m running .050 cut on my 31 with no shims , but cam gear advanced and chain guide adjusted . yo

Your selling it too cheap Guy. I would think the head would be worth that .

I knew you built your own motors - that’s why I asked. My Rebello will come as a kit for me to assemble . Hopefully I’ll have another engine build or two under my belt before I do it. At least he will do the block prep for me . I will still be a bit nervous will my ‘ investment’. I do and did enjoy carbs- but wanted to prove this old dog could learn some new tricks . And when and if I go pressurized with an L motor - it’s about required

Right on the money . Damn AFR gauges are a great tool but you find yourself about having a wreck watching the damn thing and obsessing over it. I say for the most part these engines sound better and run better a tad rich - but might just be me.

What you spend in $$ will come back to you in the versatility to tune to your hearts desire and not smell gas in your finger again ! Then there’s having a lean idle and no smells of float bowls venting into the garage . You can make a tune change while watching the evening news in your lazy boy ! Weather change? No worries , EFI got it covered. So have you been doing any hands on assembly with your motors or does Eji do it all?

Not much left if the block - it’s now going to be a test jig for straightening warped heads . The pistons faired out better - my machinist checked them out and said they were good to go as far as still being round! One of the pistons is stiff on the pin- but he showed me with just some warm water running over the pin it loosened up . Now the question is to use the pistons on what? These are 86mm pistons so do I punch out another p30 block or .... ? Sures sounds fun but not sure I want to go that route . I have another p30 block sitting in front of me now and it’s tempting . Crankshaft is getting checked but I think it’s okay after a polish.

Being pre-bent , I would go SS. Bending SS line is a bitch especially when you start getting to bigger lines like 5/16” or bigger . You can’t just reach up under there and tweak the bend with your hands - unless you are incredibly strong . i just did 3/8” SS for supply line in the stock position and it was really tough especially when you have to pull it out every time you need to tweak it

SOLD

Yes, they are correct for all s30 models.

Unfortunately you can’t take that for granted that all the rings are the same. Why and what new bolts are needed?

ISKY sent me the wrong card with my cam. I spent a day turning my engine over and over and rechecking numbers to try and make them come out. I finally got him on the phone and we cleared it up. It’s frustrating if you don’t do this a lot or are not confident of your skills- you swear your doing something wrong when your not. Not easy telling Mr. Iskerdian his cam card doesn’t make sense . I also never hit my numbers exact. Lots of slop in rocker arm ratios and other variables. If the cam grinder says they are good numbers then go with it

Simple answer is yes

Congrats Jamal!

I would personally shoot for getting the intake closing as close to card as possible, even slightly advanced to make other numbers to come out

Don’t think of it as “too soon” , but advanced 3 degrees Cliff. It’s already ADVANCED , so moving sprocket would advance it more .

If any kit requires you to give up your parking brake and you have a manual trans- you might think twice. I miss my parking brake and it adds to the cost in most disc upgrades . Bigger front discs and rear drums in excellent condition should be adequate for all but racing

Never mind - I see it on the card.

Did they specify what valve lash to check numbers at? Some cam cards specify numbers at 0 lash

Got to look carefully - especially if painted. I did find the spare that was in 4858 and it was dated 70!

Found it - looks like 3/78

I have not found such a stamping other than the pic I took. I guess I need to keep looking. I took the measurement letting folks know that these were not the earliest rims which are only 4.5” wide . Yes these are 5” wide rims i tried finding a pic of this stamp date but didn’t have any luck

I just took a L24 apart and bores were drilled( bored) to 86mm - which I guess is not unheard of. Maybe not recommended doing before sonic testing. You don’t have to go huge bores to make fast fun engine . Put money in the cylinder head . 150 hp at the rear wheels is fun car with correct gearing

You might get some ideas from these threads http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126610-carbs-to-fi-971/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113728-ms3x-install/

Steelies that have been powder coated . No damage and only a few marks left during tire removal . The only stamping on them looks like a 7(?) Asking 300 shipped in the USA

Expecting any kind of refinement from an abused 45 year old car is unrealistic . Exhaust smell issues are a problem when not addressed on these cars. There is a ton of info available on this issue. These cars are easy to work on and have good support and are relatively inexpensive to work on. And as your said, the smile is there when you drive it. Dodgy electrical is from abuse and age and just takes a little effort to set right- but it’s not an old English car. There’s hardly a better true classic sports car for the buck these days . Good luck. Also make sure the hatch inner vinyl panel is in place and sealed . Exhaust will suck in from there Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile