madkaw

Here's an interesting article with all the math- it makes my head hurt- but you can dial in for your engine. my exhaust system can't be compared to anyone else's , but did the sake of discussion we can say 6-2 header with 2" pipes all the way back to two oval turbo mufflers. Let's say drone is between 2000-2500 https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/how-build-exhaust-resonator-tube-eliminate-drone-489463/

Figured I'd update this thread( I have too many), but still very happy with my MS conversion. I actually think my tune has brought me close to the power levels I was running on triples . I am happy to have this kind of performance with just an N42 intake and my little amount of experience with MS. It's a steep learning curve , but there are folks that can help in this site and others to get someone going. Programmable ECU is a viable way of getting serious performance without switching to carbs ( for you guys with EFI Z's ) Can't thank Chickenman enough for his support . I owe him a couple more dinners - at least - but I will take care of him!

I have glass packs ( resonators ) ahead of oval mufflers . The glasspacks help a little but as they break in they are less effective. Yes Mark- that's what I'm taking about. Richard - I'm running twin 2" pipes. Packaging is the issue . There's no room for ovals where the glasspacks are in the tunnel. There would be room for a T'd pipe. Most projects I've seen the pipes are very close to the mufflers so I don't know if they would be as effective further upstream . If not I might be able to package things differently

What I read on some other sites was that the resonator pipe ideal length was 24-26" per pipe, so 1 H pipe would need to be 5 ft . I do have a crossover in there now, but that was meant for scavenging , and I would gladly do away with it for a bit more civility at lower rpms

I have twice the issue with twice pipes . I run oval in the back with round resonators up front , combined with headers . I thought I could ditch the round resonators for something like this type resonator .

Anyone try this ? With all my mufflers and resonators I am still dissatisfied with my drone at low rpm loads. I'm about done trying any other mufflers so I'm going to try this type resonator . It might be a matter of where it will fit as far as location . I might actually be able to get rid of my muffler - resonators and loose some weight going this style . The pic is just a general idea but I've read that just a length of pipe will do , sounds like around 24" piece does the trick. It can be basically attached at a 90 degree angle to the pipe, but after that it can be bent to fit anywhere .

I still say a heavy deadblow or actual sledge hammer and standing on the strut towers swinging it like a lumber jack will be needed to SHOCK it loose. You need weight and shock to bust it loose . You need to hit it from every available angle to find that weak spot. I've had to beat these heads before WITHOUT any stud broken . Just take all appropriate cautions . soon there will be victory !!!

More pics . I think I can save the floors and probably 98% of the original metal. Might be different when I get all the floor far off of there , but so far looks good. The chassis is really in amazing condition for a 70 or any early Z. Almost all the interior panels are good enough and any tears in the vinyl were small. This will be a very nice car for someone. I plan on doing a major refresh and selling .

I know you said you bought a sledge hammer , but I would have recommended a 3-5 lb dead blow hammer( not a rubber mallet) . Then you could hit the head directly anywhere , for the most part , from any direction without holding wood too. A miss with the sledge will break aluminum, but unlikely with a dead blow. It sounds like your just hitting it from one side also. You need to hit it from every angle to break things loose.

I'm excited for you Jeff - feel the power !!

No money

Treasure hunt day ! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Green underneath the primer Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Correct Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My wife is cool- I have 3 rollers now so she is getting numb to this. She also knows I've never lost $ on these deals . ESPECIALLY after acquiring the diesel Maxima Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

"So honey , I bought another Z today" instant response ," you've got to be fu@£NIH kidding me " anyone else have this conversation-lol Anyway, didn't see this one coming but it's landed in my lap. # 4858 , 5/70 build date. Still not even to my house yet and I've spent a total of 15 minutes looking at it. Too many unknowns to answer anything specific , but it's definetly fixable . Actually in pretty decent shape- respective of its age. Update this when I get it home .

Know anyone with a 4 post lift. Drive it up on there and chock everything and put a load on the driveline, or just rock it in gear with someone watching

I did that set up and thought it worked out pretty well, but I had driveline vibration that I couldn't figure out and thought it was the cause since it lowers the pinion . i went back to the mount sandwich - Techno mount snubber and stock mount. make sure no twisting motion allows those bolt heads to contact the crossmember since they are so close . I now have just learned to live with the seldom clunk I get. It seems the harder I drive the car the less clunk I get.

I've got three extra fuel pumps and I would send you one for shipping costs. i have a RX7 pump and an extra and a Carter . I replaced pumps thinking that was the problem, but it was the freaking filter . Now I'm EFI , so ....

It's not about them deteriorating, it was about them not staying assembled inside. When the filter cartridge comes loose ( if it's the replacement type) , it blocks the outgoing fuel. Mine was even intermittent which was really frustrating . I would think Dorman is the same as Mr Gasket- but I could be way wrong. Or maybe I had the only one that came loose- but the fact that it can happen vs a throw away plastic one is why I say get rid of it. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of this possibility

Get rid of that filter - they are junk. The filter assembly inside comes loose and blocks fuel flow. You won't suspect it because you'll see fuel in the filter . Take it off and see if it is coming apart inside

Body kit from Z Trix ? Looks good!

Is was more about avoiding a POSSIBLE problem then fixing one. Improperly fitted caps could lead to dribbling fuel collected in the caps that could lead to a bad idle and other issues.

Well I took Richards advice and put the proper pintle caps on the injectors. I did find out that the injectors I am using have a 18 degree spray pattern . Not sure how that compares to stock. All I know is that this engine runs as good as it ever has- despite finding a valve nick on #1 bore , despite dropping the cam with towers attached from 4 feet in the air. Despite replacing a cam tower that was nicked on its bearing surface from the drop. Despite shaving another 20 thou and not checking clearances despite guessing cam timing and throwing the cam in 6 degrees advanced. and the list goes on thankyou L gods

So if I answer to Steve or Stephen(mom would be more proud of Stephen), do the Steve's get any points for that. How abut points on how many cars the Steve's bring-LOL