madkaw

Datsun - front engine - exhaust under sests Porsche- rear engine(most) A lot owners go with aftermarket performance exhaust which usually causes more drone. Counter with more insulation . Personal tastes. I love my exhaust except when the drone comes in to play. I drive my car all the time when I’m home, and at 55 year young, I like a little civility for a DD.

Rotisserie started!

Bummer !

Looking for help from a member in Reno . I have someone here in Indiana that has inherited a 77 and needs assistance getting back here. The issue will be getting it to a point to be able to be transported . Been sitting since 93

No hurry - still have some cutting to do before welding Got a new weapon to fight this battle

Not sure yet. That’s what I would like to do, but it’s a little more work then using bumper mounts.

Maybe my question should have asked how high are the rear bumper mount holes above the ground when the car is high enough to rotate. That would probably be the best reference point to build around.

I bet they fit perfect actually . Positive offset should be enough to keep the tires off the lips.

Am I correct about the type sync tool you are using? I was serious about the defect with that tool. You will get erroneous readings . It’s a great tool if it works correctly , but too much time in fuel makes it defectives - at least the one I used

5” is pretty good , so centerline could be lower depending on center connecting bar height. Thanks Charles

Float Sync tool? Glass tubes ? Dont let gas sit in them too long or the expoxy gums up that holds the tubes and block the readings- ask me how I know

I’ll look to see what I have , but I think it’s a bit earlier , probably 12xxx

How early?

I will definitely reference this thread while doing the 70. I hope to have the same arrangement of doing the car on someone else’s dime . I’ve done this before but not to this extent . The bar was set very high here. As far as paint - base coat with lots of clear coat looks amazing , but lots of layers can cause big chips. Color sanding or blocking out the clear - which was probably done here makes a huge difference . Many man hours of good ole elbow grease . All that clear really brightens the paint .

That seems like a lot! So how many inches does the body clear the bottom bar at its closest point? These cars are 60+ inches across , so I thought 36” would be safe . I’m hoping I can jack car up high enough with my Quick jack , to not have to put hydraulic jacks on the rotisserie. i guess everyone’s set up is different as far as contact points, so it’s hard to compare notes .

Another words - if you have to ask how much, then ....

So I thought I would tag on to this thread with questions about my rotisserie build. As you can see I’m not very far along , but need to think about how high the car needs to be to clear spinning. I’ve built In adjustability on the main bar so I can adjust balance once I get it close. I know it doesn’t have to be too high to clear, but I figured 36” at the center? Still not sure about where I want to mount the front end. I was considering using the sway bar mount points along with the tow hook holes under the frame rail. I know the bumper will hold up- but I also have repair to do at the radiator core and the right bumper mount. Might be a mute point because I might fix the radiator core first, but still considering mounting at frame rail.

I guess I had messed up my e-mail address on this posting - my apologies . It is correct now. Surprised I haven’t got more action on this, maybe that was one of the reason -lol.

I don’t know if that was meant for me- but no ITB’s for me - yet. I don’t understand how 2500$ worth of work is needed to match ITB’s anyway. I’ll be running single TB modified intake(Canon manifold with custom plenum). EFI is a one time $$ changer over from carbs, the initial investment hits hard.

I just pulled the trigger with a Rebello kit. Dave is prepping me a block and I bought his kit to assemble myself!

Still available with lowered price .

At least my ad the head is on a stand

Looking at your set up again I would think with that trans your z should about break the rear tires loose in first gear under WOT , or should be very responsive . The T -5 has a low first gear that would make up for that diff gearing. It’s hard to analyze such a subjective subject as how fast your z feels or how strong the motor feels. A very slack chain would drastically retard your valve timing and move your power band ( higher rpm)into an area that your stock cam would not be optimized.

First things first! Check your valve timing now. You have a stock cam so see how your marks line up. You need to do this to install a new timing chain anyway. Checking to see how the notch lines up will tell you if you do have a valve timing or chain issue. You can peek down in the hole to see if the tensioner has fallen out or something.

What’s the rpm power band on that stage 2? its probably too small for what I want . What are doing with all those 3’s