madkaw

So this is getting more interesting. 86mm bore and O- ringed . The cam seems basically stock . Shims are .035 so betting chambers are about 39cc . cant upload any pics right now for some reason

I couldn't find any markings anywhere on either end of the cam. I'm going to clean it up and likely trade it off to Steve Bonk that does cams to see what he can do with it. The head does have the bigger valves and has been shaved a few thou for sure with shims under the towers. Need to finish taking it all apart and getting it all tanked

A donor panel and I would try it with a TIG welder and lots of time

Its toast for sure and it's a drilled cam so it's not stock. It was running spray bar also.

Nothing broke and it came apart nicely. Some goodies hiding inside . lightened flywheel high CR Pistons , 9mm rods

That regulator position worked well for me

Thanks Mike Anyone else going? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So the link shows up when I reply but didn't see a click link in the original post - maybe my phone

https://www.midwestzheritageshow.com/ i didn't see this link in the OP

I did that the other day

Yep - this topic has been beat to death- so let the beatings continue! 17x8.5" +4 offset . 225 will BARELY rub if I bottom out over a bump full fuel and cargo. What rubs is the inner arch rear quarter which can only be altered with flares. Same wheels with +10 offset I bet I could get 245's not to rub, but you would have to run spacers up front ( this is with stock spring diameter , lowered 1.5") Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'd say it safe to say that this engine hasn't ran in a long while . Interesting retainers !!

Looks great- but I bet that black on black was hot. Need a lite color interior for black car. Saddle brown is nice with black, but I still think white would be classy and never seen it on a Z

Tough call . Since it's not a numbers matching car( no engine tag), not sure if color will make or break value. It is one of my least favorite colors , but it works well with original trim. Like to do something different and have lots of time to think about it. Really like to do a black Z with white interior - but don't see any to compare . Or even crazier red interior . Just happy the car is so solid . Since i am likely not to keep it , I should go a stock configuration . Wish I could solicit a buyer first and build to their specs !

I don't about that, but would be a great location for the Midwest show. College town has a lot to offer. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think we started a new Z club . BtownZ Club. BZC Met some friends at C& C

Interesting paperwork that came with the car shows the exchange of owners somewhere CA. BMV paper has statement from owner stating car was in storage from 1988-1996 - and at that time had 58k miles. Presently the odometer reads 59k miles. Looking over the car at every angle I would say the mileage probably could be correct , though no way to verify. I do have some names to try and seek out info. Accept for damage causing rust on the floor boards , this car is really clean. Only other damage I found besides the floor is the radiator core support was dinged somewhere in its life and I think I can dolly that straight.

Isn't that rewarding when it just WORKS!

Question - have you test fitted that damper yet? My buddy got one and it wouldn't fit on the crankshaft snout. ID was too small

Oops- sorry about the bad link. Its been discussed everywhere and many aftermarket systems use an adjustable J pipe to tune OUT drone issues. Maybe more of a situation for performance exhaust and engines then stock. Overly complicated ? Yes maybe for a stock car. If I can fix a drone noise precisely with welding in a pipe instead of another muffler , I think that a simple solution . A secondary pipe 24" long is much easier to package than another muffler . It can be bent to put anywhere and it doesn't get hot like a regular muffler does. So in MY situation it might be a simpler fix actually. Making it adjustable is the key and I just figured how I will. Two different size pipes to slide over each other and length can be adjusted . Band clamps are used to hold adjustments for test driving or permanent hold.

Just made my reservation to go up- now hope Mother Nature cooperates

Here's an interesting article with all the math- it makes my head hurt- but you can dial in for your engine. my exhaust system can't be compared to anyone else's , but did the sake of discussion we can say 6-2 header with 2" pipes all the way back to two oval turbo mufflers. Let's say drone is between 2000-2500 https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/how-build-exhaust-resonator-tube-eliminate-drone-489463/

Figured I'd update this thread( I have too many), but still very happy with my MS conversion. I actually think my tune has brought me close to the power levels I was running on triples . I am happy to have this kind of performance with just an N42 intake and my little amount of experience with MS. It's a steep learning curve , but there are folks that can help in this site and others to get someone going. Programmable ECU is a viable way of getting serious performance without switching to carbs ( for you guys with EFI Z's ) Can't thank Chickenman enough for his support . I owe him a couple more dinners - at least - but I will take care of him!

I have glass packs ( resonators ) ahead of oval mufflers . The glasspacks help a little but as they break in they are less effective. Yes Mark- that's what I'm taking about. Richard - I'm running twin 2" pipes. Packaging is the issue . There's no room for ovals where the glasspacks are in the tunnel. There would be room for a T'd pipe. Most projects I've seen the pipes are very close to the mufflers so I don't know if they would be as effective further upstream . If not I might be able to package things differently