madkaw

Well I can actually say I’m making progress again. Wanting more power for this summer and getting my Megasquirt going has been a big motivator. The block has been sitting under plastic bags and the guts have been in Tupperware totes. I had already sized rings so they were ready to go. I had to clean the pistons again for the third time after noticing i missed some carbon in the ring glands. I also drilled out the plugs on the block to get full access to the oil gallery. After getting that done it was time to clean again. Id say assembly went smoothly but had issues with oil clearances on 4&5 mains. All the caps were numbered and marked with dots( which I did neither to the best of my memory) . I put it back the same way and 4 had only .001 clearance while 5 had .003. I tried everything from deburring, filing , swapping bearing shells to improve things and nothing worked. When 4 got torqued , it made the crank noticeably harder to turn. I finally had to resort to calling my machinist for advice. He said to try swapping caps, and I did , and it worked. Crank spun freely and plastic gauge showed .002 on both. That was a big victory ! I knew this engine spun freely when I took it apart , but didn’t pay attention to the markings other than that they were marked. Piston pop out is .023 . Yes the block was shaved . Waiting on a timing kit to come in since I wasn’t happy with the Melling kit. Dam crank sprocket would even fit ? Time to dust off the MN47 . It’s been sitting in a box for a very long time and I wasn’t even sure how much more work it needed. I considered using my E88 that’s on my L24 , but at 37cc Chambers , I think it would be too much CR, besides the fact .050 has been shaved off it and makes P2V clearance much less. The MN47 needs more port work around the guide area mostly, then dropping in bigger intake valves , so it will take a minute . But it will get most of my attention for a while . With block pretty much done , I can concentrate on the head .

oh- yeah that is scary. I spend many a night sitting in a siding taking a nap. Wouldn’t wake up from that one though

Did I miss something ?

I’d try notch 3 on the cam sprocket. Take some slack out and advance your cam timing to get the intake valve closed earlier and get back some compression. If the chain is that loose your losing power

Refurbished Datsun E 31 cylinder head for sale. This cylinder head came off a 1971 240 Z that I recently parted out. It was in very clean condition when I found it, but needed some TLC. This would be an ideal head for your restoration with its clean casting and stock specs. I decided not to modify this head because the cam was in such wonderful condition as well as the valve train. I have listed below what I have checked and had done on this head. I am presenting a cylinder head that you should be able to unbox and bolt to your motor. Stock valve sizes. Pressure checked head. Machine surfaced all three sides of mating surfaces . I measure a total of .018 removed from head thickness. All threads cleaned. All bronze intake seats replaced with steel. All guides within tolerance, new Viton guide seals installed Complete valve job with new intake seats blended to ports. All new valve springs. All wipe patterns checked and any adjustments made. Valve lash is adjusted on all valves. All combustion chambers cleaned of pitting and sharp edges ,and unshrouded for breathing purposes. All Chambers CC’d and all measure 41.8cc plus or minus .2 cc All new exhaust/intake studs installed . New inspection plate. New freeze plug installed Sprocket is used and was just mounted to provide proper spacing for cam. This head never saw a bead blast cabinet and was run thru a parts washer at least 3 times. I am asking 1100$ for the head with credit for your core. Core does not have to be an E-31 casting . Will always consider partial trades for Z parts. . Like I said earlier this should be good to run out of the box . I will ship with a valve cover . Price includes shipping in the USA I will be glad to answer any specific questions and will offer tech support to buyer if needed. PM me or email sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

I would think your compression readings would be a bit higher for that combo. 2.9 block and small chamber head . Those look like stock L28 numbers .

Got to have timing involved in this conversation- period

Okay - good luck

Price, condition, shipping ???

I also agree not to sweat the red engine - kind of goes with the scheme . TB type?

Not being rusted out - I would consider repair . I am assuming that there is no previous repair and there isn’t rust under there. Like said , cut bottoms out and work metal and recap . Take your time and you might not catch anything on fire!

Who makes that intake ? Thought it looked good with the 42 intake on there. Stock engine management?

I have a valve just like that

I did not notice a disparity between my cylinders because of my non tapered box. I think the capacity was enough not to choke air volume to any cylinder .

I will speak on rack boots. All the aftermarket I’ve used did not fit as well as stock Nissan boots. Also lower grade of material. Yes they are 5 times the price , but a bad fit will tear faster.

Wow- that’s terrible - could that even be trimmed up or was it meant to have extra material to be trimmed ?

I think the 37k sell was a bit of a fluke. I think it was the perfect storm of 2 bidders that wanted the car badly. Not saying it wasn’t a clean car, but cloth seat covers :0

Assembly

There’s only one option- the Nissan CAI

It was meant to be

Anything that cuts- torch , plasma cutter , partner saw would be the fastest

Guy powder coats with it .

Yes- makes for a nice heavy stand . Yes - I’ve had one semi successful run and it works pretty well. Need to dial in my technique.

Cut off wheel(ssss) straightening a n47 head in a kiln

Alas - the engine block sacrificed for a worthy cause