madkaw

Yes- makes for a nice heavy stand . Yes - I’ve had one semi successful run and it works pretty well. Need to dial in my technique.

Cut off wheel(ssss) straightening a n47 head in a kiln

Alas - the engine block sacrificed for a worthy cause

I am also very lucky - in many ways- but also the fact that I was able to build myself a Z studio behind my house for my playing time .

That’s just not right Chuck - for one man to have all that ?

Sorry guys - I can’t work that way- I think I’m a bit anal . When it starts to look a little cluttered or I can’t find something - it’s time to clean and organize

Well- not much then. You could sell the rockers if not too bad of shape . Someone might want the stock cam also if it’s in good shape . Springs and stuff aren’t worth much really.

Do you know who made the kit and what the camshaft is- that would help . It should fit on any other head if you could use it

3:54

Have most of the AC pieces for early ( pre 73) ARA system . Very nice underdash evaporator , plus extra evaporator, compressor , bracket , pulley , 200$ for whole package or separate pieces . The compressor , though dirty has a rebuilt sticker on it , but no knowledge if it works complete air smog pump system with good hoses -50$ Timing cover - good condition - 40$ 280zx AFM - sorry don’t know year and if works . Glad to test for buyer if I what tests to do. Came off a very clean motor. -25$ r180 diff - super clean -75$ All prices are best offer and don’t include shipping . shipping is from 47401

If I had room I might consider keeping it - but I’m Lucky enough that I already own a very nice Z. I also have another 1972 Z that I want to make a lemons racer with. So right now the plan is to just fix the car up and sell it for funds for my other Z‘s.

Without putting a gauge in there - you still are guessing .

Is this car a keeper or is going on the market ?

might think about putting a fuel pressure gauge on there to see what’s going on . I had a zxt that was giving me a fits and it was a clogged return line. Showed almost 100 psi at one point - don’t know how things didn’t explode -

I think you are right Lumens , it all adds up. The diff was open - though solidly mounted . The engine was the sneaky part . I didn’t race or solo cross at all ,so not familiar with the rules as far as mods. So it looks as if he ran a stock cam on a shaved head ,bigger valves , but punched the block out to 86mm- which no one would know unless it was cracked open . It had triple Weber’s and a header at one time . Kind of fun trying to put the puzzle together

Maybe those centerline wheels rubbed just on that side . They do have a negative offset . I’m going to run the wheel up into the well when I pull the spring and see if that’s the case . I have heat in my studio or I wouldn’t be out here

wheel well lip

Fortunately the PO’s didn’t do much else to the car. Cut off the lip on the drivers side rear quarter - just the drivers side?

Did some serious bodywork today removing bad bodywork-lol. I got lucky that this guys fiberglass didn’t stick to anything much . I just tapped the marker area with a hammer and popped out the filler. It was a bad idea , badly executed, thank goodness ?

Wow- not getting any better is it

Very nicely done - congrats . You’ve set the bar too high for me - but it’s fun too watch !!

Oops

I’ve read where Blake has said less than .7- but doesn’t recommend it for the average builder . I think he ran less than .6 Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I thought it was 1.25mm Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What I meant as far as measure is to install a piston in the block on the crankshaft and measure the ‘pop out’ of the block. I would be surprised if any additional thickness of HG would be necessary .