Bambikiller240

This subject has been discussed previously and the thread should be easy to find by doing a search on "Black Pearl". There is also a write up at www.ZHome.com discussing the Black Pearl Edition cars. BTW, some of the 280Z's that were painted in Black Pearl paint were not actual Black Pearl Edition Z Cars. In other words, paint only, does not make the car a Black Pearl Edition. Since the Black Pearl Edition was an "appearance package", and did not include any special mechanical or "go fast" parts, if these appearance items (paint, decals, etc) are gone, it is virtually impossible to determine if a car was in fact an original Black Pearl Edition. See the write up at ZHome, or our recent thread for more specific details.

Looks like a normal fuel tank for either a 240, or early 260Z. Just to be sure, you do realize that the electric fuel pump would be external to the tank, and not located interally. Right? Attached is is a picture of the fuel pump we (USA) received on 73 to 74 Z cars. I expect it would be the same one fitted to Aussie Z's.

Does the clock keep time other than blowing fuses? Usually (probably always) they are using clocks from junked cars to do a "rebuild" which in most cases is simply putting a 240Z face on a 280Z clock. Maybe the clock they used is NFG? I've had one in my car for 3 years now and it works great (so far).

a better unit! O ' Gawd, Let me count the comments I could make.....................................

Naw, that wasn't me that got kicked outta Rooster Poot. I was born and raised in a different town.

Maybe it was a sale to Billy Joe and Martha Jean Forbes of Rooster Poot, Arkansas?

I missed that also. They're trying to screw the buyer coming and going, and they don't mind letting you know about it. Tisk, tisk.

I'm sure that was what they intended to happen, but with it stated differently in the auction, I'd do as you did with the dealer and do my best to make them eat the stupid fee.

Will: He's probably nipping on his own State Fair Silver Award winning Home Brew. Fairlady 2001

Will: I saw that also, and was going to point it out, but then I saw that they also say, "We are sorry for this added cost. Please include this amount into your final bid price. WTF is that supposed to mean? They impose the fee, but it is included in the final bid? Why even tell the buyer about it then. Seems like as the auction is worded, your bid is what you get the car for. I'd fight it with eBay were I ever to buy a car from these guys (I won't).

Although I like the original Ferrari GTO, I feel a car like this is going to appeal only to folks who have extra cash after arranging a lifetime supply of Enzyte! JMO __________________ Carl Stahlnecker IZCC #8648 & CZC#791 72 240Z "Bambikiller" Pleasanton, CA USA Vicky, Must be a dishonest previous owner and/or incompetent Oregon DMV.

At least this time he's using different pictures of the car, but sadly hasn't figured out that it isn't the pictures that are keeping it from selling @ the same (inflated) price. can't blame a seller for starting out at a high price, but this is bordering on :stupid: after all of the failed listings this car has had since at least Christmas 03.

Guess Paul Sr., Paul Jr., and Mikey had better watch out.

63) No $hit! WTF? 57) Sure they can, it's called ROAD KILL. They just don't use dem fancypants werds for it.

:pirate: :pirate:

65) When you have #35 listed twice. 66) When #63 is almost a duplicate of #62 and doesn't make sense. PS: I don't get #57. Wasn't Bambi a deer? Thus the animal that died (Bambi's mother) was also a deer? Why would anyone be interested in the rabbit with all that fresh meat ready to dress and BBQ?

Same one that has been listed at least 6 times and seldom even draws a bid let alone sells. WAY over priced for the market.

Unlike many of our previous polls, this one piqued my interest. Good on ya!

I have one also, but am looking for a better one. The one I have has the "EYES" on the ends of the bar welded on, and I'd rather have one with "forged" ends because I hear that the welded ends are likely to break under hard use..

Hi Ron: I tried a Google search on "Saner" and didn't come up with anything. Do you by chance have any contact info or guidence for contacting them. I've never heard of them myself. Thanks, Carl I was/am really disappointed to see that GC seems to have bailed on the Z market.

Sadly, Ground Control's website no longer lists Sway bars for Z cars. They appear to have abandoned us. Anyone else carry this product?

You don't use wheel bearing grease, there are many grades of grease. A light weight grease is what I would use. Moebius oil is good for watch/clock movements, but those items are generally a more "sealed" environment where lint and dust to do not exist to a great extent.

Everything I have read indicates proper bleeding order to be the master cylinder first, then from farthest wheel cylinder to the nearest. That's also the way I have done it for 35 years without any problems. i.e. Master, RR, LR, RF, LF.

Victor: I do not remember the post you are refering to, but I would not suggest using oil to lubricate the spindle of the tach. Oil will spread out and attract dust, lint, etc which will further foul the spindle that the needle is attached to. I believe that a grease would be more appropriate, as it will stay in a concentrated area. Just my $.02