Bambikiller240

1972 and earlier Z's that I am familiar with had an adjustable clutch slave cylinder. The push rod coming out of the cylinder boot had an adjustment nut and lock nut and the rod went through the clutch fork. Starting in 73 the clutch fork was changed to onw without the hole for the rod and the cylinder changed to one without provision for adjustment. It was deemed a "self adjusting" clutch. I'm not sure how your car (mfg 5/72) fits into that. Does your car have a 5 speed trans? If so, the later type of clutch salave was probably fitted.

Careful now Mike, the line up is liable to get long for a new glovebox. I'd like to have a new one if this project comes to fruition. Please keep me in mind if this happens. Thanks.

I don't know about factory added tools in the 260Z model, but back in the day, my friends and I routinely added a screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and a small adjustable wrench to our 240Z tool pouches. "just in case".

Check out the ENGINEERING FUNDAMENTALS Website for a Compatability Guide where you can select either a O-Ring Material or a Chemical to find out what is compatible with what. There may be some surprises to be found for some folks! NOTE: There seems to be a limited access time to the site before they ask you to pay for access, so look fast and make notes for future reference.

I have been looking for BSPT plugs for the exhaust manifold in order to eliminate the "Air Galley" part of the Emissions System. My local full service hardware store carries a selection of BSPT fittings, but I cannot find one that will fit. Does anyone really know (for sure) what size plug is needed so I could have them order the right ones? Please! I agree with Keith on Home Depot. I have a heck of a time finding things in those stores. "Just ask a clerk"? Ha! Try finding one that will give you an answer.

No, you did not "test the transmitter"! You disconnected it, and it was no longer connected to ANYTHING! The test you performed is meant to determine what is causing a false "temperature reading" at the guage when the cooling system is operating correctly yet the guage shows an incorrect reading, You disconnected the transmitter from the wiring and grounded "the wiring". All you did was test that the guage and the associated wiring reactedto "grounding" as they should. Thus proving that IF everything else in the system is working properly and the system IS cooling the engine properly (yet the guage still shows a high/low teperature reading) that the transmitter and NOT the guage or wiring is the problem. Thus by process of elimination, the transmitter would be the problem. The test is meant to be performed when the cooling sytem is in good order yet the guage reads incorrectly in order to determine which part of the temperature reading system is a fault.

The transmitter is a simple thermocouple. They very seldom fail. More than likey it's a part of the cooling system itself that is the problem. Since you have a relatively new pump and T-stat,and fluid coupled fan, the radiator is the next logical (and most likely to fail) part to have checked. $55 is cheap for a Rod-Out. Here in the Bay area you'd pay $90

Back in the 50's, 60's and 70's; the US domestic manufacturers released all of their "new model year cars" in October of the year before the named model year. So it is somewhat common to have a 1965 model Chebby, Ford, Chrysler titled in 1964. You are correct in that the state DMV procedures wer not totally consistant state to state, or even office to office within a state in some cases. Post some pic of your car when you get a chance!

Ther are a few US model 240Z's titled as 1969, but the factory intended them to be 1970 model cars. how they were titiled (in the US, at least) is a function of the DMV in the state it was titled in. Could not be "controlled" by the factory.

That tells you almost NOTHING about the condition of the radiator! All that tells you is : 1. the Thermostat opened and is allowing coolant to flow to some degree. 2. the water pump is pumping coolant to some degree. 3. the radiator is not 100% COMPLETELY plugged up. (Radiators almost never get plugged "completely" because the car starts to overheat long before things get COMPLETELY plugged) NOTHING ELSE! What you see is "some" amount of coolant being pushed by the pump. It can only "push" as much coolant as it can "suck" from the engine block. If the radiator is partially plugged , the pump cannot "pump" the full volumn of coolant needed to properly cool the engine. You cannot see and measure the volumn (quantity) of water being moved. The volumn of coolant being moved through the radiator is one major key to cooling your engine. If the radiator is plugged such that a sufficient volumn of water cannot flow through the radiator to be cooled quickly enough, then your engine will overheat. You cannot tell if the radiator is plugged by looking at it. A Radiator shop must open it and examine ALL of the tubes in the core. Can't healp with the transmitter, I just replace mine when I am sure that everythin else is in good condition and the guage reads funky. It is a simple device and seldom fails. *Spent 5 years working in a Radiator shop repairing and recoring all sorts of radiators, in my youth. Radiators have operated on the same principals since first used in automobiles.

Respectfully submit that no one can tell if the radiator is "pumping water". The water pump pumps it, not the radiator. You also cannot tell by looking at a radiator if it is "flowing" coolant sufficiently (unless it is COMPLETELY plugged up which would be very unlikely). This is something that needs to be checked by a Radiator shop.

Next step is to examine the fan clutch for signs of the oil having leaked out rendering the fan useless. Also have your radiator checked. It could be plugged up with crap preventing full flow of coolant. After that I'd have the engine checked for signs of a blown head gasket. (most radiator shops can do that for you) Next (for me) would be to replace the water pump. Slowly you go, step by step, inch by inch, it's a preocess of elimination. PS 1/4" past the middle of the guage doesn't seem that terribly high, especially given the inaccuaracies of these gauges. You might want to think about the meat or candy thermometer suggested by several of us earlier. Run the car on the freeway to get it up to temp, CAREFULLY release the pressure from the radiator cap (assuming your cap has a lever to do this) then stick in the thermometer and see what it is reading in degrees F..

It is possible that you "may" get by with disassembly and cleaning of the brake and clutch systems (don't forget to flush ALL of the lines as well); however more than likely you'll end up needing to replace the masters, and wheel/slave cylinders. Brake fluid tends to absorb moisture and turn to jelly which fouls and corrodes the sytem. The rubber hoses can rot and develop leaks as well. If the car been sitting (unused) for a long period of time you may be better off (safety wise) to just rebuild the systems and then you'll know for sure that these vital systems are working properly. Just my $.02 EDIT: By "rebuilding" the systems, I mean replacing the cylinders and hoses, pads, etc. making the systems like new. Not rebuilding individual cylinders as you cannot repair corrosion in these parts.

You don't have to have the engine torn apart completely to replace the front and rear main seals. The rear seal can be changed by removing the trans and flywheel. The front seal "may" (I've never tried it, but I know a mechanic who says he can do it) be changed without removing the Timing cover, but anyway it can be changed by pulling the Timing cover. You don't even need to pull the head if you are careful. "Resealed" would not mean "Rebuilt" to me. There is a lot more to rebuilding an engine that "seals". Rings, rod bearings, crank bearings, and the attendent machine work, valve work, etc

The "new genuine Datsun replacement" distibutors are in fact "Nissan OEM Remanufactured" units. I bought one from Nissan and paid less than that (around $125) less than a year ago. It works very well with the Pertronix unit. If that is the route you plan to go, I'd check with Chloe at www.midwestz.com ; she can probably get it for you cheaper than MSA, and maybe even cheaper than I paid.

Shame the "For Sale" ad is two years old!

Hey Ben: Auxilary (Alex) is installing a Mazda Rotary engine in his Z car. He lives near you in the Fremont area. Met him at the HybridZ Meet in Rio Vista back in April of this year.

I believe that he only reason the Automatic Trans equiped Z's had the dual point Distributors was for emissions. At idle the engine ran on one set of points, and at a predetermined RPM, it switched and ran on the second set of points. I know Pertronix doesn't make a kit for the dual point Distributor, but I can't think of a reason you couldn't do as landmizzle says and swap in a single point 240Z Distributor. Just hang on to the old Dist in case Arnold and the backstabber boys change the smog check requirements again.

Front and Rear Main Seals? (Crankshaft seals)

AFAIK, the Pertronix is only for distributors on Manual tran equiped cars. Probably the best bet would be a ZX Electronic Dist and Module. Just my $.02

Gema: POR strongly recommends at least "Organic Vapor Particulate Respirators and Goggles, or a Fresh Air Hood. NIOSH/MSHA approved if spraying. The product gives off some sort of cyanide compounds that can do serious and permanent damage to your lungs and eyes. Safety first. FWIW, the POR distributor I order my products from is very helpful with question of mine, recommendations, all sorts of advice. Don't be afraid to ask your distributor anything.

Gema: Have you read about the application of POR product? Is the car completely stripped of paint, and primer down to bare metal? I only ask because you say you "may" do the interior. POR15 must be applied to bare, properly prepared metal. If you put POR15 over paint or primer, you are wasting your time and money as it will not protect your car from rust. You may want to talk w/ EScanlon about your plan to POR15 the exterior of the car as well. If I remember correctly he recommends NOT using POR on exterior body panels that will be painted. BTW, if you plan to apply the POR15 by spraying, you will need a very sophisticated breathing system to avoid poisoning yourself. POR15 is a great product but used improperly it can really hurt your health.

I have NO experience with the Suspension Techiques kit, but the Poly bushing kits that I am familar with require that the sleeves for the "outer" spindle pin bushings be removed. I installed the Poly bushing straight into the control arm. If you already got the spindle pins out, what is the machinist going to do?

Mr. C: I think we are trying to help him, but without understanding his question (and not being able to "guess" what he really means), all we can do is answer the question as posed. I (for one) couldn't and won't make the leap from "chassis" to "frame rails" from what he posted. I do welcome him and encourage him to post again with more detail of what he is trying to accomplish.

My (USA) 1972 (11/71) 240Z has a white interior. Paint is 115 (I think) Metalic Blue