Bambikiller240

MSA's Sway Bar Set DOES rquire drilling of holes in the floor pan for the rear bar. Check into Suspension Techniques for a bar that DOES NOT require drilling. (well, it did not require drilling in the ZTherapy Suspension Video anyway)

Steve: I couldn't find the thread, but someone (somewhere) on the site has previously indicated that this situation is (or can be) caused by the little rod that fits between the booster and the M/C being not adjusted (in regard to length) correctly. I don't remember the specifics of correction but I believe "trial and error" was involved. The only thing I really remember was that for me it was going to be important to never mix things up or change things in this area. Sorry I can't help more, but maybe someone else remembers more on the subject or can find a link to the thread.

There are many components of the 240Z front end that can cause the steering wheel to wobble. Are you sure the "play" isn't in the inner or outer tierod ends, or the wheel bearings? I would doubt that the new ball joints are the problem. Poorly balanced tires/wheels can cause the wobble, as can the rubber donut between the upper and lower sections of the steering collumn.

I joke with people all the time, and refer to 350Z's as the afterbirth of my 240Z.

I would only strip the floors and maybe 1/2 way up the trans tunnel on my car because those are the only places I've seen any rust at all. Areas that have ABSOLUTELY NO RUST, I would leave alone. Places that have "spot rust" or worse, I'd strip and treat appropriately. JMO

Yes, that pic from Steve is John. (foreground)

The only plae I know to get Remanufactured SU carbs is http://www.ztherapy.com/. They are IMO better than new. I do not know of anyone who can get "new" OEM SU carbs. The prices you mentioned are normal fromk my experience. You can buy rebuild kits much cheaper and try rebuilding your own carbs (the only problem with that is that on most 30 yr old carbs, the throttle shafts are worn and leak air).

Ferrari is the Featured Marque this year. The last time I attended when Ferrari was featured, the factory flew in several cars from their museum that are never seen in the US. Phil Hill was in attendance and took most of them for a few laps on track. If you are a member of the Tifosi, don't miss this event!

I forgot to mention, I also check the sellers history. That will tell you if he sells the same stuff over and over (inidcating that he has stock).

I don't know about eBay AU; but in the US many of the sellers offering T shirts and the like are actually making them for sale or having them made. I always wait until the auction is over (if the price goes above the minimum bid) and contact the seller and ask if he has more. Usually I get the item for less than the auction price. Doesn't always work, but works more often than not........for me.

So then why the question in the first place? If you found the auction with the picture, contact the seller. Maybe he has more. If not, a local T shirt shop should be able to make a copy with the picture as an example.

This auction is for a picture of the above engines.:stupid: :stupid:

Nope. It's been in my Gallery for months.

I'd agree Andrew. It's the $30 price for so few items that seems a rip off. Also as you say....can really identify all the small items as the picture sucks. I've been tempted by a few grab bags of nuts and bolts and other fastners, but I keep thinking that I can get'em for free at the Pick ' N ' Pull if I wear loose coveralls with deep pockets!

Nice Work,Skip. They look VERY nice. What did you use to finish them? Do you work with any other varieties of burlwood? Walnut? Maple? Having done a bit of work with Redwood Burls (making Wall Clocks) I do wonder if they will get damaged by rings on shifting hands? I know burlwood is harder that regular redwood, but I found it could still get dented if I wasn't careful.

Here is a pic of the Timing Marks on my 72 (11/71) Lowest white mark on pulley is ZERO, if you look carefully you'll see the POINTER pointing right at it indicating TDC #1 cylinder

Correct. Front of engine to back of engine 1-2-3-4-5-6

The # 1 piston is at the top of it's stroke AND the Timing mark on the crankshaft dampner is at the correct "pointer" or "Zero" mark on the Timing scale (depends on what your car has) AND the rotor of the Distributor is pointing to the #1 contact of the Distributor Cap.

In the sellers pocket if anyone spends $30 + shipping on that crap!

You cannot tell if fuses are good by looking at them. You need to remove them all and test with an ohmmeter. Have your battery and alt checked checked by auto repair shop or parts store. Many will do this for free.

The reason I like to bash Porsches is that I still remember the Porsche 911 owners of the 70's in CA who pulled their heads out of their arse just long enough to stick it in the air at the thought of a Japanese car in the same race as they were................until that Japanese car waxed said arse quite nicely. Then they whined like babies. The cars were nice, if a bit quirky to drive, but it was the attitude of the owners that I hated most intensely. I don't know any hardcore Porsche owners anymore. They are still around, I just don't know them. Back to abusing my elbows !:stupid:

Your best bet is to have the car inspected by a local shop to see the EXACT condition of all systems on the car. Sitting for two years does no good at all for the condition of the car. www.nadaguides.com/ can give you an idea of the worth of such a car.

You might also want to check to be sure that the spark plug wires and connected in the correct order. 1-5-3-6-2-4

Hi Stephen, I know that you knew that I knew that you knew. Just was trying to make it clear to any others who hadn't read the previous thread about the product.