Victor Laury

Yep that's the Zap. Zhome.com - ZZZapZ write-up

A nationwide search on collectorcartraderonline.com returned 23 1977 280z ranging from $1,000~13,000. Straight average was $5,531, but the majority was in the $3,500~$4,000 area. Of interest was a PERFECT (!) "Zap" package in Oregon! for $13,500. I would think that was a good price for this rare bird. There was one for $22,000 that I left out of the calculation. "Highly Modified" I can imagine

Those rear pieces look exactly like the ones in my 72. And I also assume the rear pieces on the earlier cars would be different due to the tool doors

Well, something is wrong. How's that for good info? Before you fiddle with anything, have a friend step on the throttle pedal, whilst you confirm that the throttle is opening completely. I know that seems simplistic. But, It happens. More often on cable pull throttles like the roadster. Someone will say their car is no good after 4800 or so, and it turns out their throttle is only opening 3/4 on the stop. Since youv'e just swapped the whole system out, perhaps the linkages are not in adjustment for the new set. SU on a stock engine should sing to 6,200

So far, it's how you expected it, pretty broad with a median of the middle'n. I fit dead center on that bell curve. Seems strange to me, with the life I've lead, to end up with a job, house and vintage car hobby. Who'd thought the 70's doper kid would made good? I'm rediscovering my Roadster this week. WOW! what a f'n ride!

Not a roadster, my guess would b e aftermarket. The roadster has the same spindle/spline spec as the Z. I just had a 70 SPL 1600 come over for a SU tune-up with a 75 280 wheel. it fit mechanically, but stuck out like a sore thumb aesthetically. Too much dish. I could bearly get into the drivers seat.

the moon smiles on the river, turning water into molten Silver, So much for #13

Check again with our vendors. Within the last year, I've been able to purchase from Nissan a new sender for my Z, my 70 roadster and my 1965 320 pickup! So I find it hard to believe that there should be any trouble for you.

Tire diameter isn't a concern in autoX. You don't spare any time filling the wheel well. Smaller diameter lowers your ratio. combined with lower weight it's a win win. Who cares if you speedo reads correctly? Your too buisy and it's bouncing around too much to read it anyway. True, there's some fantastically light 15'' race rims out there. In our offset, you'd be hard pressed to find them. My 15X6 revolutions on the roadster are boat anchors when compared to my 14X6 AR Vectors at 11lbs a piece. Some of the Miata crowd change at the track to a set of feather weight SSR 5 spokes that almost float out of your hands. Find those in 0 offset and you scored!

I don't see a turbo on that LD24 anywhere!

Smaller is better! Contrary to modern style, If you could fit 13'' wheels on your Z, That would be the best size for AutoX! 14X7 of the Lightest possible wheels running 195/55/14 DOT race rubber - about the same diameter as 185/60/14's but wider. and your ready to throw down

he siad, eevn if the wrod is speleld worng, you can stlil raed it if it bigens and edns wtih the crorcet ltters. Bcaesue yuor barin sees the cmolptee wrod as the fisrt lteter, lsat lteter and lngeht of the wrod and deson't raelly btoher wtih the mdidle.

The Original one was Flame Maple! Much better than any stone IMO.

That was a beautiful story! The race Nobody finished! It's a testiment to the qualities of our Datsuns and the abilities of the Teams that the Datsuns were the last cars to die! Should not they have awarded first place to the car the died last?

While cleaning up my engine, I replaced the thermo housing with one from my former 72, that I had polished. After ward, My gauge read 15 degrees higher. Since the only thing I changed was the houseing and sensor, and kept the same thermostat, I suspected the sensor output was different. So, I polished up the original and swapped them out again and the gauge reads normally again.

Weber DGV's were a common upgrade to replace the problematic 1973 U.S. market smog SU's, refered to here as "Hatichi's" , "Flat-tops" or "Tuna-cans". If the Weber conversion was made, you'd see the two, retangular chrome air cleaners, I believe you'r describing. It's a "fair" upgrade, supassed only by installing earlier 1972 SU's, known as "Round-tops". Rust and the "moon-roof" are the scariest part of your description. $400.00 would be equal to it's part-out value. But, we hate to hear of another one just scrapped out.

Marvel Mystery Oil is "Top end lubricant" fuel additive, mainly for diesel engines. It's been 25 years since I've read the label but I don't remember anything about putting in your crankcase.

On my daily driver I run the Falken Ziex ZE-502 195/60/14's At first glance, I was dissapointed. When I went to my local tire store, I asked "Can you get me these Falken sports car tires?" "The really sticky ones?". "Sure thing!" "and they're on sale for $45.00 apeice" my tire guy replied. When he got them, I saw the treadwear rating of 420 and said "these are grandma tires, they are not what I wanted!" Well, I bought them anyway, and they turned out to be a pretty good tire. I've pushed them as far as you'd ever want to push a street tire and they've responded above what you'd expect for that specification. It only takes me 15 minute tops to swap my street wheels for my set with the Kuhmo Victoracers 195/55/14's.

When I stripped mine to bare, My neighbor and I picked the shell up and carried it to my driveway. It was not light, nor was it a comfortable load for 2 large men, but that's all I had. Although It did have a lot more metal than Stephen's! Wow! seeing your car is making me feel guilty for sending that 72 shell to the scrapers. The poor car didn't even get a shot at the junk yard, it went straight to the metal recycler. Of course every nut, bolt, line and fitting are in my spare parts hoard, so maybe she lives on in spirt.

I have a excell spreadsheet, called TransCalc with your aussie/euro/jdm market 5 speed ratios as "std. Roadster trans" Plug your tire size and rear ratio in and it charts speed/RPM in each ratio. If Mike will instruct me, I'll Upload it to our Downloads section. I don't want to email to each person that asks for it, last time, it was too much work to keep up with the requests.

Alan's "Our Logistics will move you" Is a smoother catch phrase.

This has been an on-going problem with the MSA covers on my car. The tape lifts. I have bought more 3M Extra strength double sided tape and "Built up" a base under the brackets to bring them a little higher and reduce the stain on them. Does it work? Well the tape still lifts, It just takes longer. It would seem that the only true answer is to drill and pop rivet the brackets in place. But I'm so hesitant to do that, I'll monkey the tape some more.

You did pretty good for someone who "dont know alot about all the names" :classic:

Runs on start and dies on run. No question. That's the ballast resistor circut. On a points style dizzy, The ballast resistor cuts the voltage down to 6 volts to preserve the points. 12 volts, all the time, burns them up quick. So, cars of our vintage installed 2 curcits. A full 12 volts as you start the car, to ease cold starting. Release the key and you're on the second curcit, through the ballast at 6 volts. When we install the EI dizzy, we bridge the ballast, so it's 12 start and 12 run. This will over heat the stock coil so that needs to go as well. If you've done this, something is wrong at that point. Start at the connections you made and hopefully the error will be evident.

MSA 6 to one coated 2 1/2 Bent by Morse Mufflers of Burbank California (a true pipe artist) Turbo style muffer Chrome Straight tip, ending 2'' past the bumper. Simple, uncomlpicated, Quiet when compared to my roadster! (It only sets off a few car alarms, the Roadster sets them all off!)