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About 2ManyZs

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  1. Airjockie, I sent you a Private Message.
  2. I'm having a bit of difficulty obtaining a title to a GA car with no title as well. VA DMV is giving me the old run-around.... If I were you, I'd do one of two things. Put a mechanics lien/storage lien against the car, then, if it isn't claimed in a certain time limit (which it shouldn't be), your state will have to issue you a new title, and you can then correct the typo. Or, you might be able to claim the car as an abandoned vehicle.
  3. Pancho, do you have a part number on the ones you used? I see there's more than one choice when it comes to the knurl diameter.. some of the 1/2 studs are .530 or so up to a .680 knurl diameter.
  4. If I remember right, the last price Chloe at MidwestZ had on these before she went AWOL was $535 a pair, which was the lowest price of any of the US suppliers.
  5. Here's the 60mm which are the longest that Nismo offers... as you can see, the price is almost 62 per set, whatever they consider to be a set(4, 8 or 16) they are still a lot more expensive than say ARP 1/2 inch (10 for 20 bucks or so) would be from Summit Racing. http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=40222-RS025&submit=Search Here's the scan from the Nismo catalog with the dimensions...
  6. You can still get the Nismo studs but they aren't cheap.... :sick: Another alternative would be to use an SAE stud and just buy new nuts.... IIRC, a 1/2 inch stud is almost the exact same diameter, you just have to find the right knurl on the stud. Chino 240Z is doing this very thing at this time as far as I know, you might try him to see if he found the correct replacement....You can buy them for 20 dollars for 10, while the Nismo studs were about 5 bucks or more each the last I knew... :paranoid: BTW, I was just hoping you might be able to save those tires for something else or use them on another set of wheels that didn't require spacers.....
  7. I don't know that I would trust them. I've got a set of ARE wheels that have such a thick center flange that the stock studs and nuts are nearly the same as yours, without a spacer. I'd either use longer studs, or, if possible, use a slightly narrower tire to for clearance and get rid of the spacer (if that is possible). I'd want the end of the stud to at least be flush with the outside edge of the nut, to make sure all threads on the nut are engaged on the stud. I don't know how strict the vehicle inspections are there, but in VA that wouldn't pass. Mine only passed because the wheels had a screw on center cap that covered them, so without removing the cover, they couldn't see any of the studs/nuts.
  8. The 8 blade fan was part of the recall to cure the vapor lock problems with the 73's. Either one will work fine with a 3 or 4 row radiator. They'd work a lot better with a stock 2 row if you had a fan shroud. I doubt there's enough gain with the 8 versus 7 to make much difference, the biggest difference would be either a larger radiator core or a shroud.
  9. With a locked rear, you have way to much front spring, that I can say for sure. Locked rears will increase the understeer considerably, and with the 350 front springs, it's gotta be pretty bad. With what you have right now, I'd suggest buying a pair of 275-300lb springs and put them in the rear, and put the 250lb springs up front, then tinker with sway bar sizes to fine tune the handling.
  10. I think the Mallory part number is MAL-4763901
  11. I'd warn her not to do it unless you are there to lend a helping hand.... It's pretty straightforward, but that diff is pretty hard to handle for one person if the car isn't high enough. Best to use a floor jack under it, which needs an extra pair of hands to operate while one person steadies the diff, unless you have a set up like this one. http://www.baddogparts.com/index.htm Look under Products.
  12. Craig, I hope Kaelin doesn't read this thread.... :devious: I can just hear her now......."Mom and Dad? Eewww, that's gross"...
  13. If the noise is coming from the inside of the diff, the only way to repair it is to pull it. You might be able to diagnose the problem by just pulling the rear cover, but you will need to drop the diff to repair it if it is a bearing or gear problem.
  14. Actually that's just about the going price right now. I bought a set for just a little over 500, and within a month or so the prices went over 800 a pair when the supply dried up. Now that there is a supply again, the prices seem to have leveled off around 520-545 a pair. Kinda like gas prices, once they go way up, when they finally settle down, the prices don't come back down to where the started from.... :paranoid: I guess we shouldn't complain too much, at least there is a supply again, unlike many other needed parts. Maybe one of these days, some of the parts that are in high demand will be available again.
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