Victor Laury

Steve, Less talking, More driving. No one is going to protest in a Regional Championship series. No one will protest in a National, unless you beat them. BSP is pretty safe. There's quite a bit of leeway before your bumped to FP (pretty much a purpose built track car. The Nit pickers will complain about your strut bar and header if you run BS, but only if your beating them. Seat time, pratices and Xruns. run, run, run. If you use up your first set of Victoracers in a half of a season - your having fun. And that is what your first season is all about. There allot of talent that comes out of the Central Coast area. It's going to take you at LEAST one season to get up to that level. So drive and keep your car mods under your hat. When your chasing around the country for a National Championship, Then it's time to use the rule book as a scale. I loved Auto X. It's was getting too costly to run the roadster (ever try to buy an Engine part for a U-20?). I first thought I'd make the Z into a AutoX Beast. But, it's just too damm pretty.

Sounds expensive. Sounds to me like he's ingested something and it's bouncing around on a piston. My first suggestion would be to stop running it. Not even to have folks listen to it.

On my 72, the 5 speed just fell in like it was made for the job. No sheet metal was harmed during this operation.

If your repairs are half as through as your documentation, You're going to have a first class restoration. We need to keep photos like these in a rust file for future reference.

I tuned a Roadster club member's 70 1600 to perfection. Does roadster work count as "Z Plans"? Wait, I know! My Z needs a wash! That'll do it!

Yes, On your 280Z, you can lock the door, just as you described. But, on the 240Z, our Texan brother described it perfectly. And just as Ernie said, I too thought my lock was broken when I first tried to lock the door with it open.

Gee I never considered my car as "pimped out". I guess it's up to the owner to decide. Alan T. proved the headlight covers where in the intial 240Z concept drawings. It's was most likely a production cost factor that kept them off the car. How "pimped out" is fulfilling the designer's vision?

The sticky tape works....kinda works, or should I say, I made it work. I was as carefull as possible in placing the mounting tabs, but there is more stress on the bottom tab, no matter what. I followed the instructions, and waited 24 hours before mounting the covers. The bottom tabs still lifted off. I adjusted them by stacking layers of the sticky tape (3M High Adhesion) until it was a stress free environment. There's no way I'm going to drill into my HL buckets. I take them off to clean under them every 2nd car wash. No real hassle there. But, the rewards are great, since the install, My car gets more curbside compliments than any other car I've ever owned.

I was researching which bosch relays and relay holders to suggest to you, and then I saw the PainlessWiring site. Screw it. #30815 - For H-4 halogen lights * $60.00 at AutoZone or you local eqivalent. I think you'd blow that much gathering up the parts. This kit has it all ready for you. 2 relays and holders, fuse and holder, all the wire and new headlight connectors all made up and ready to go. Why bother?

At least MB is making some beauty cars. I drove up on a new 2 door sports coupe the other day, I theink it was a SRL 500 "Barabus". I may have the designation wrong, but it ws a BEAUTIFUL car! The BMW Z8 is fantastic! I just don't have an extra $100,000+ to spare at this moment - or actualy, I don't have an extra $100 at this moment.

hows this, From the roadster parts manual Roadster Parts Manual At the bottom of the page, you see a comparasen of the Waso and the Voss. My 70 roadster key is shaped like the the one described as "Voss." So would the ones on ZParts.com Zparts.com

I generally use a new set of plugs. cleans them up perfectly

Ahaha, That 71 key is the same as the 69 and 70 Roadster. That's what we Roadster officinatos reffer to as the "Voss" key set. Willing to be it was used those years on all models. Obviously, Nissan used the Voss key set (the single sided, oval fob) to the 71 model year. The, changed to the double sided key set.

Busted! Yes, That's the stock U.S. Left mirror. I bought a new one for the drivers side, then I polished up the old one and hated to waste it, so I mounted it on the passenger side. It gets more attention at Z shows than any other feature on the car. It's not a very good right side mirror, because it's flat, the field of veiw is too narrow to be effective. So, I stuck on a 3'' stick-on convex mirror. If you look at my car from dead ahead, you'd see that the mirrors don't match in the attachment angle. If you have a buddy down-under, the stock R.H.D. mirror will perfectly match the angle of our Lefty. And, visa versa for ours for them. Sounds like a mirror exchange program is warrented.

Clean, Clean, Clean! Block paint - CDM makes a good match in spray cans. To apply it whithout taking the engine out, or everything off, spray the paint on a paper plate, then brush it on with a foam brush. Buy a bunch of the foam brushes, as the paint dissolves them. Plated parts - I've slowly but surely replaced every Zinc dichromate plated part in my engine room. Before that, I used Eastwoods "Golden Cad System" with some success. It doesn't "really" match a true plated finish, But it doesn't look bad. Keeping it clean - Maguire's "Quick Detail" is now a permanate part of my tool kit. It works great on the inner fenders and firewall, removing the grease in the seams and pores, sealing it up as well. My engine looks ok, my engine

Your photo looks like my keys as well. The round one is for the doors and hatch, the square one for the ignition. Mine's a late 72. My early 72 was the same.

I'm hoping it's not for the factory roll bar. Nissan placed mounting points, very much like these, in the roadster for the roll bar. I wouldn't expect much protection from them. The sheet metal would tear away and you'd be wearing the bar as a neck tie.

Tom, Enrique has given you sagely advice. Let's see if I can add some at equal value. First - Where are you at? Chances are, you have a CZCC member in your area to help you evaluate a prospective purchase. Having more than one set of eyes to check out a car is never a bad thing. 2nd - Be prepared to walk away. God, I wish I had taken this point to heart when I bought my first Z. Lets say you drive 100 miles, with the purchase money in your pocket. The seller says "This IS the car you've been looking for". If that Fairlady is not as fair as you expect - Walk AWAY! I swear, the day after you compromise, the car you REALLY wanted comes on the market. 3rd - Be prepared to check out the car. Wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty. Bring a flashlight. Get down on your back and look ant the frame rails. Use your hands and feel under the battery.

I've been tring to find a good box too. I just keep sticking it in to every one I find and try them out. Oh, we're talking car parts? Oops! ... never mind.

As Mike described, I bought the quartz converted clock, sold by MSA, built by this ZClock4U fellow. It appears to be a quality product. The AA battery will last over a year. it has a long lead attached to the battery holder, so you can position the battery down by the fuse panel for easy access. I sure like knowing what time it is! But, even more obsessive, I can't stand for inoperative functions in my Z! Everything Must Work!

I predict a run on the maket for 88 civic blower motors. I know I'll be getting 1 within the week! I'm not A/C'd but I use the blower to keep me "somewhat" cooled. Thanks Mushpork5 for paving the way.

Wasn't the 240 and the NA 911 both in C prod during the years where the 240 took the Championship? I believe so.. I'd say that consecutive championships are the "proof in the pudding", as it were. BUT - there's more than one Porsche. I don't think the Z car and the 930 TT Carrera is any match.

I bought the "aftermarket", "modern" auto antenna from MSA. It was a clean installation. I ran an un-switched 12 volt wire and the antenna motor signal wire together along the path of the rear harness. Six months of good duty so far.

Plastic - Not Glass Glass media is too aggressive. Plastic media blasting is the way to go. You don't get the warping. This will only attack the paint, bondo and leaded areas. It won't touch the rust. That part is for you. :mad: $400 to $600 for plastic blasting a complete stripped down Z is a good deal considering all the time and the mess created if youj do it.

I brought my valve cover up to bright with just wheel polishing. If you must have perfect polish, you need to get rid of all surface defects with sanding through the grades. The problem is, the valve covers are pretty porous castings. So, as you're sanding to get rid of the holes, you open new ones up! I've gotten pretty good at poishing, these last few years and have collected quite a few tools to do it right. I have 2 large motors that run the different compounds on 10'' wheels, and a big slow motor for a sanding arbor. For finished aluminum, I start with Emory compound to take out most of the small imperfections. then I solvent wash between each of the next copmpounds - Stainless - Tripoli - White rouge. You got to keep your wheels clean as the clog up with aluminum and start to fog the work. On raw castings, there's no choice but grinding and sanding before the wheels see it. I'm scared to do my Carb domes because I'm worried about distorting them with the heat and pressure of polishing. It would be a bummer to have pretty domes with stuck pistons. True?