SteveJ

Get the tank fixed or get a new tank from S30.World

You're welcome to come hang out with me at the Mitty at the end of the month. The Group 3 race will look similar to this.

That's okay. I just wanted to post the link. I was too lazy to go down to my cars to look.

Red Yellow (Corrected as per @Captain Obvious )

He made it look easy. However, IMHO he should have chased the threads instead of using a die. After watching that video, I'm happy that I had people with specialized knowledge rebuilding my boosters.

This may help you: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68235-ignition-switch-broken-wire/

Because it's good to get a part rebuilt by people who actually care about their workmanship. I realized I should add some detail to this. As I mentioned before, one booster was on the 260Z when I bought it. As far as I could tell, it was OEM. The other booster was a rebuilt booster that was probably purchased from RockAuto. When I picked up the boosters, the technician commented that the one that had the sticker (260Z original) was original while the other booster probably was rebuilt by A1 Cardone as he found broken tabs that he has experienced before with A1 Cardone. They even provided me with all of the parts removed from the old boosters so I could inspect them if desired. I dropped the boosters off on a Wednesday, and I received a call the following Monday saying they were ready. Unlike rebuilt boosters you get from part stores, Harmon blasts the booster and repaints it. Things like that matter to me. On the cheap/fast/good triangle, they are very much on the fast/good side, but considering that I'm getting tired of swapping boosters, I don't mind at all.

Well I found one problem. I installed one of the boosters into the 73, and it really demonstrates how much I need to clean up the rest of the engine bay. 😐

Don't get stranded. Take care of the maintenance on your Z before you hit the road for Spring driving. Go to Kale Co Auto for all of the tools you need. https://kalecoauto.com/product-category/tools/ And don't forget to fill your headlights.

Well, unless you get really creative with temporary wiring, you will need the dash harness connected to start the car. Does the harness need to be installed in the dashboard? Technically no, but it is more susceptible to damage.

Harmon Classic Brakes

I just got a couple of boosters back from a local business that rebuilds them. I also had one spacer available, and they cleaned that up, too. It wasn't cheap, but they turned them around in less than a week, and the servicing technician demonstrated functionality on their test rig. It's worth paying extra when you know they take pride in their work. The one on the left is the original booster off my 260Z. The other booster is one that had been rebuilt before. I put it on the 73 and moved it over to the 74 when the original booster failed a few years ago. They even saved the Bendix sticker, though I wasn't worried about that.

Several of us have these: https://www.wescoperformance.com/roadster-seat-belt-eb.html?srsltid=AfmBOorcQsKiY0tD9LLwNC0uo-GmS-dKn2KSEQNTsjx691MWTZKWRv_- I installed them in both of my cars. Search this site for Wesco. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q=wesco&quick=1&start_after=any&updated_after=any

If you ever want to respond privately to someone who has posted in a thread, you can move the mouse over his/her username, and the pop-up will have a MESSAGE button. Also, if someone is mentioned (user name in blue in a post), you can hover your mouse over that, and you will see the same pop-up.

@keijz I would take @dutchzcarguy up on his offer. I'm sure driving across the Netherlands is faster than waiting for delivery from America.

If you can't find another source, try https://junkyardjenny.com/. I don't know if she ships parts internationally. New parts: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/horn-switch-set-for-datsun-240z-stock-steering-wheel-datsun-competition-steering-wheel?variant=45972012489&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOori-UsJFDkrJ9U3N8mBRFGd2C3AUVCC-KR4iFE5ydlAMCkwX23AWuM

Good. I know sometimes technical information doesn't translate well. Here are a couple of photos. The wire for the horn is attached to the ring at the same point where I drew the arrow in your photo. Looking at your picture, it looks like you are missing a couple of the insulating washers that go under the metal washers.

Is my information translating well for you? If not @dutchzcarguy could probably explain it in Dutch.

The black wire should connect to the ring. The ring should not be grounded until the horn button pushes the ring against the steering column. In the attached video, you can hear the horn relay click as I push the ring down into the steering column. Horn button movement.mp4

What you are finding is normal. Here is a simplified view of the circuit. When that black wire is not in contact with ground, it will show 12 volts to ground. From the positive on the battery to that point, the circuit acts as one long piece of wire. That is what is in the red cloud. Once the black wire comes into contact with ground, the coil in the horn relay is energized and will act as a load.

The ring where the wire mounts should not be grounded all of the time. When you press the horn button, the ring makes contact with the steering column that is grounded. What is wrong with your horn is that wire is mounted to one of the 3 screws that holds the ring to the steering column. The mounting screws have insulators to isolate the ring from the steering column. The wire should be connected at the empty hole, and there should be an insulating washer at the screw where the horn wire is currently mounted.

Yep, especially when someone in Alpharetta (near @inline6 ) posted an 83 5-speed that wasn't even cleaned up for $700.

I let a couple of friends in the area know about this in case they know of someone looking for a 5 speed.

Considering that most people re-wire the fuel pump with little regard for safety, I would restore it to stock. It's not as safe as having an inertia switch, but at least it will cut off the fuel pump if the engine stops running.