Everything posted by SteveJ
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ZCON 2025 Announced
ZCON will be back in Nashville next year. I believe the ZCCA is doing Nashville as a 5 year rotation going forward.
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Triple Mikuni 44 need recommended brand of electric fuel pump
But if someone converted that car to an internally regulated alternator, that person would have to disable fuel pump relay 1, or the battery would keep running down. The wiring would need to be modified to get power back to the fuel pump in that case.
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Triple Mikuni 44 need recommended brand of electric fuel pump
Do you have the field modification for the electric fuel pump?
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Triple Mikuni 44 need recommended brand of electric fuel pump
We need to determine if the field modification was made to the car and whether or not you have an internally regulated alternator. Field modification: Do you have one or more of these items? An electric fuel pump mounted at the gas tank The relays indicated in the drawing below (Look for the ones where I drew the arrows.) A wire branching off the black/yellow wire at the starter solenoid (Sorry, no picture available) Does the car have the stock alternator and voltage regulator? The voltage regulator is mounted to the passenger side fender near the alternator. If your car has the field modification, you should see the VR plugged into a 6 pin connector, and that has a short length of wire going to the engine harness. If you have both the stock alternator/VR and field modification, you have everything ready to wire up your electric fuel pump. If you don't, we can help you with Plan B.
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Triple Mikuni 44 need recommended brand of electric fuel pump
But since it's a 73, it may be wired with the field modifications. That's why I want to get the OP to answer some questions about his car as opposed to throwing out a bunch of things.
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Triple Mikuni 44 need recommended brand of electric fuel pump
The wiring is there in the back, but depending upon what has been done to the car over the years, getting power to the pump may be an issue.
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Triple Mikuni 44 need recommended brand of electric fuel pump
You could use a Holley red - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-801-1 It would have enough flow. You should monitor the fuel pressure to determine whether or not you need a fuel pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure at the carburetors. You will need to mount the pump near the gas tank. The next thing to determine is whether or not the wiring is in place to power the fuel pump. Are you ready for a series of questions?
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Lazy Tach with 280ZX Distributor
The mounting is different, too. You have to adapt the 260Z tach internals to the 240Z tach or adapt mounting brackets on the 260Z tach to mount it in the 240Z dash. The 240Z tach has studs on the left and right. The 260Z/280Z tach has a bracket at the bottom and a screw that goes through the top front of the gauge.
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Lazy Tach with 280ZX Distributor
The 260Z and 280Z tachometers are interchangeable functionally.
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Lazy Tach with 280ZX Distributor
But @kcpope jumpered out the ballast resistor, so maybe a higher impedance coil might help.
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Car Requires Choke to run
Look for vacuum leaks all around your intake.
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Lazy Tach with 280ZX Distributor
There's a video for that. How it works on the wiring diagram: https://youtu.be/5eUMImOnfHc
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
Did you by the OEM version Z Car Depot sells, or did you buy the generic one. I'm pretty sure this is the Nissan part: https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-switch-oem-240z-260z-280z-510?variant=19275160191089¤cy=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&srsltid=AfmBOopH6VW3h4MxQaEG7pE62G-UpFxLVWe6672qDYb_WLqBrkGVJY-VnhA
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260z Bottom Door Striker
Well for the bottom part, reach out to Junkyard Jenny. https://junkyardjenny.com/
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260z Bottom Door Striker
https://zcardepot.com/products/door-latch-striker-catch-left-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-76?variant=39520640008305
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240Z WILL NOT run right
My first guess would be a check valve issue with the fuel pump if it's a mechanical fuel pump.
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
Are you saying continuity by a meter tone or by a resistance reading of 0 (or almost zero)? Was the K18 relay plugged in? If not, did you just have the 1 jumper in between BY wires? Was the connector for the ignition switch connected to the switch, or was it off with no wires attached? The bottom line is that the BY wire is never grounded, but you have to make sure of your testing methods/conditions. If you don't control the methods/conditions properly, you can end up going down a rabbit hole. Been there. Done that. Many years ago I lost the fuse for the parking lights/gauge lights. In tracking down the short, I first guessed that it was probably around the gauges, and after unplugging the speedometer, the short went away. My method was flawed as the positive and negative wiring from the speedometer affected all of the gauges downstream. After realizing my mistake (and wasting about an hour or more), I resumed my search with a better methodology only to find that the positive wire for the light by the defroster switch (74 & later) had become detached from the socket. In other words, make sure you aren't shooting yourself in the foot.
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
You only need to jumper the ones you did to get continuity. Everything else can be left disconnected.
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
Okay, I had to dig through the 73 wiring diagram. That looks like the K18 relay. If the relay has failed or lost its ground, then the car won't start. That's part of the nag warning for the seat belts. While it's present in the 72, the circuit didn't make it into the wiring diagrams. You can get this connector from Vintage Connections (https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/6-3mm-connectors?variant=46131501236545) and make a nice, plug-in jumper.
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
First check the jumper. Make sure it's still in place. Next, you want to make sure you have continuity in your wiring harness between the ignition switch connector and the solenoid. You want to make sure the dash harness to engine harness connector is still connected firmly (and free of corrosion). This is the connector you are looking for: You might have to get some help to test the entire length. One way of testing is to take the BY wire off the solenoid and make a jumper wire to ground it. Then see if you have continuity to ground at the ignition switch connector. I cheat. I have long enough leads to test wires from the front to back of my Zs.
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
Year of car? Was it originally manual or automatic? Please go here and click on the link to create a signature. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/ Include information such as the year of your car and any known modifications. It helps a lot with troubleshooting.
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Testing ignition switch. Video inside. Is it dead?
The key piece of missing information: What is the voltage to ground at the WR wire? If there is no voltage at the WR wire in a 240Z there are two primary causes: The fusible link is bad. The ammeter gauge is bad. Does your horn work? Do your hazard lights work? Do your brake lights work? If the answer to all 3 are "no", then look at the fusible link. Next: If the answer to any of those 3 is "yes", then do you have power at the cigarette lighter? Do your running lights work? Does the inspection light work? If none of those circuits work while you have hazards, horn, or brake lights, then it's quite possible the ammeter gauge is bad. (Note: I have seen a couple of real-life cases where the ammeter gauge blew because someone connected a battery backwards.)
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
When you get the horns back, look for my video I did on horns. It may aid in reassembly. https://youtu.be/oOHLgH1o-oE?si=Cle_9Ey2BWmjFxZU
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New to me, 280Z...
The condenser served two purposes. It prevented premature wear on the points (240Z only) and it reduced electrical noise. Electrical noise is really more of a problem for AM radio than a modern FM radio. The ignition system won't even notice if the condenser isn't there.
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Has anyone here done business with Sanchez Juan David of Facebook group-Datsun parts and Accessories?
And I just did a search on FB. Many people in the Georgia Z Club identified it as a scam.