SteveJ

Correction. Look at the 1987, too. Left: Right: The 1986 calibers are the same, too.

According to Rockauto.com, 1988

Look at these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-19b979?srsltid=AfmBOorQHThiJTzimO6iRJqOhvJrTk6qA8SuHrOzdDx3mNdVlhMjM5fU https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-19b978?srsltid=AfmBOoph0mai3pzg2aMTQEZ4Nsv1qV5CBGEa_W2dgqT_Ks4aG4Kh3P8v

Post a photo of the caliper showing the mounting bracket.

What year Maxima?

I haven't seen anything in this thread that eliminates anything since it's mostly been shotgun diagnostics.

Scopes have become very affordable. https://www.amazon.com/CASE】3in1-Oscilloscope-Multimeter-Generator-Automotive/dp/B0D3LMPQY3 You would also need an attenuator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHMLPV7 And it would be good to have an inductive lead so you can use the spark at a trigger (once you do get spark again). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYS9F3L

It could be.

You can see the site using the internet wayback machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20180307072216/http://www.installapart.com/

There is a local place to rebuild boosters.

Maybe an oscilloscope even. I can detail some testing, but you'll need someone to turn the key while you measure.

Do you have the polarity correct on the coil?

Show how everything is wired with clear, detailed photos. How did you test the plug for no spark? What is the voltage on the coil with the key in ON? What is the gap and dwell on the points?

On the other hand, I have a friend who has been using the Fast EFI for years, and this is a 280Z that he drives to every ZCON and a few other events, such as Branson ZFest, every year. He puts more miles on his 280Z than I do in my daily and other cars combined.

For the red washer, you could use a phenolic washer like this. https://www.amazon.com/a15112300ux0387-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers What is the diameter of the hole?

It looked fine to me.

I think this listing has one of the two: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176235020346 Full set here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134841176467?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 It looks like the seller is only about an hour away from you, too.

Here are photos of more of the stock style weatherstrip in my 260Z.

Well, the Kia seals are for the doors, not the hatch.

ZCON will be back in Nashville next year. I believe the ZCCA is doing Nashville as a 5 year rotation going forward.

But if someone converted that car to an internally regulated alternator, that person would have to disable fuel pump relay 1, or the battery would keep running down. The wiring would need to be modified to get power back to the fuel pump in that case.

Do you have the field modification for the electric fuel pump?

We need to determine if the field modification was made to the car and whether or not you have an internally regulated alternator. Field modification: Do you have one or more of these items? An electric fuel pump mounted at the gas tank The relays indicated in the drawing below (Look for the ones where I drew the arrows.) A wire branching off the black/yellow wire at the starter solenoid (Sorry, no picture available) Does the car have the stock alternator and voltage regulator? The voltage regulator is mounted to the passenger side fender near the alternator. If your car has the field modification, you should see the VR plugged into a 6 pin connector, and that has a short length of wire going to the engine harness. If you have both the stock alternator/VR and field modification, you have everything ready to wire up your electric fuel pump. If you don't, we can help you with Plan B.

But since it's a 73, it may be wired with the field modifications. That's why I want to get the OP to answer some questions about his car as opposed to throwing out a bunch of things.

The wiring is there in the back, but depending upon what has been done to the car over the years, getting power to the pump may be an issue.