SteveJ

Koito H4 housings: https://tinyurl.com/e8rcpjwd Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Bulbs-Brighter-Canbus-Lifespan/dp/B0DK5CSY2P Plug-and-play solution No relays needed Low cost Reliable Good beam pattern Can be converted to halogen bulbs if someone in law enforcement throws a hissy fit

Unfortunately that appears to be the case.

Well, you wouldn't have to worry about being blinded by oncoming headlights. The gauge lights will have already blinded you. Maybe not. The parking light fuse would probably blow first.

I don't like to assume. I can faintly see what looks to be a green wire in your photo that has a female connector. Green comes off the ignition fuse. If your car started life as an AT car, I would think there could be a green wire for the kickdown switch in that area of the engine bay.

Year is almost always critical in asking questions about wiring.

I wonder if Skillard might consider making reproductions of those.

I doubt that is a Nissan switch, and I'm betting @HS30-H can verify it is not.

Well, if you don't have the neutral switch on the 5-speed, it means you lose the capability of connecting the annoying as hell seat belt buzzers. (Just leave the wires hanging.)

I did some more searching, and @Zed Head looks to be right about the switch being for the dual point distributor. The challenge is that it doesn't show up until the 72 FSM on page EC-11. I found a thread here: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-performance-technical-124/thermal-relay-question-36814/ that shows. The temperature range and continuity check you did fits with this chart. And the FSM said it was introduced in 71. Go to the Downloads in the Resources section to get the 72 FSM.

Nope. The switch for the points is on the thermostat.

From the parts manual: It is for autotragic transmission cars, as I guessed before. If the car has been converted to a manual, this thread is complete.

My guess - Key in buzzer. Ignore this drawing. What are the wire colors where it was plugged into? I missed "right hand" in the original post. Now I'm thinking something to do with the kick-down solenoid in the autotragic transmission cars. They are wired with green wire.

I advise removing your phone number from posts. That only invites scammers and spammers to track you down.

Are you on your flip phone again?

I certainly enjoy the obscure information you bring to the conversation, Alan.

Something isn't right. You should only have 1 wire to the negative of the coil unless you are using a tachometer from a 74 or later Z.

It is a little awkward. I usually need to let my back rest after I do it.

By the way, here's the truth table for the 73 combo switch: So the red wire should have voltage to ground when the headlight switch is on. Have you verified you are using a good ground point when measuring voltage?

I'm glad you got that sorted out. Being able to eliminate possible problems help you move on to find the real cause.

Actually I need to refine the testing. With the battery disconnected... Remove the R wire from the relay and see if you have continuity between the R and WR wires. If you do, it might be that the combo switch is not opening the contacts. If #1 shows continuity, disconnect the wire going into the combo switch and re-test continuity between the R & WR wires. If you no longer have continuity, that implicates the combo switch. If you still have continuity, you have a wiring issue. If #1 shows no continuity, check for continuity between the B & S terminals with the R wire still disconnected. If you have continuity there, the relay has a problem.

I'm not exactly sure how you wired it, but I think it should be something like this. (See below. It looks right.) S - 12VDC+ (This should be the R or RY wire from the fuse box) S1 - low beam ground at combo switch S2 - high beam ground at combo switch B - 12VDC+ fused L1 - low beam positive L2 - high beam positive Now, I took another look. It seems like that is how you wired it. So, I would disconnect the battery and look for continuity between the S & B terminals with your wires landed. If it is, then disconnect the WR or R wire and test again. If the relay checks out fine, move to the combo switch. Just my 2 cents.

If the light is still coming on with the car off and the wire plugged into the switch, no, you don't need the combo switch in.

The switch is connected to ground. However, the positive side on the light, should be connected to the ignition circuit. Unplug the wire from the brake switch. Put the positive lead from your voltmeter on the wire, and touch the negative lead to ground. See if you have voltage. Let us know how much. Then we know where we need to go from there.

I'm glad you figured it out. You look like your old self again.

I grabbed a picture of a later ZX ICM, but this will work. Coil positive to the +. Coil negative to the -. Coil negative should only have one wire going to the ICM. I believe the non-latching 2 pin 6.3mm connector from Vintage Connections should plug into it. https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/6-3mm-connectors?variant=46131501138241