SteveJ

You got the special shocks designed to dampen forces only in a curve.

By the way, here's a story Hagerty did on @Jo B.- A_Car_Gal's partner-in-crime, Riley, https://www.hagerty.com/media/people/girl-power-send-your-carburetor-to-rileys-rebuilds-the-teenage-tuners/

I spent most of yesterday helping an enthusiastic young lady debug a 240Z in preparation for Hemmings "The Great Race 2026". Jo is a recent graduate of McPherson College's Auto Restoration program and a long-time fan of Z cars. She is pushing hard to get her Z ready for the Great Race, and she spends most of her waking hours after work turning wrenches on her car before time runs out. Here is the route for the event. While she's been getting a lot of help in the Atlanta area, I was hoping members here would be willing to provide support to Jo and her driver through the route. I'm trying to get her to join up here, but she's pretty busy right now trying to get a lot of details fixed before the trip starts. Fortunately it looks like we were able to address all of her known electrical issues. She had done a lot of work on the car including: Engine swap to a 2.8 Transmission swap New LCAs Lots of new bushings Getting horns, headlights, turn signals, temperature sender, and fuel sender working (That was the bulk of yesterday's work.) Replacing fenders and other sheet metal that was subjected to battle damage over the years Getting a new interior ready And all of this in a car that was given an impact nose job. Who's in to support this Z enthusiast's adventure of a lifetime?

Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z (S30) Parts ManualExploding parts diagrams and listings for the 1969-1978 Datsun 240Z, 260Z & 280Z model S30 series.

From Nissan: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-cap-wheel-hub~40234-s0400.html

Z Car Depot IncFront Hub Cap Dust Cover 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZXHub Cap Dust Cover Pair OEM 240Z 260Z 280Z ZX 74-83 - 200-610 (). New pair of OEM Nissan hub cap bearing covers, Fits 8/1973 to -1983 Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z/280ZX. Also (read the notes on this link) https://www.thezstore.com/product/2033/factory-front-hub-bearing-cap-70-89-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-z31

There's this: https://easyperformance.com/products/datsun-240z-sequential-led-taillight-kit-70-73

Frankly, I just replaced the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs, but you said PCBs, so that's what I looked for. With the LED bulbs, you also need to change out the flashers to electronic flashers.

Reach out to Junkyard Jenny. https://junkyardjenny.com/

They have said that for quite a while.

https://zledslights.com/home/#!/Datsun-240Z-ZLED-Tail-light-Type-I/p/41615211 Dapper Lighting1970 - 1973 Datsun 240Z Advanced Sequential LED Tail Ligh...The Classic Sequential Tail Light (CST) kits are direct retrofits and replacements for incandescent light bulbs in classic vehicles. These kits incorporate high-efficiency LED lights that increase tai

The easiest solution is to replace. Someone probably tried to fix it in the past.

Just restore the hinges. (Warning: This guy makes things look too easy.)

Another way to get Google to search on this site is to include site:classiczcars.com at the end of the search string. When I'm searching the online parts manual, I put in site:carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 to narrow it down to Z car parts.

It is indeed a blue wire. Clean it. This is from the factory wiring diagram: (Note - I cleaned up the text for the wire colors to make them legible.) There are 5 wires going to the ballast resistor in stock form. Two are blue wires. One blue goes to coil negative, while the other blue goes to the TIU and resistor for the tachometer. The white/black wire goes to coil positive. The black/blue goes back to the ignition key where it is powered when the key is in Start. The black/white wire is the 12VDC+ source when the key is in On.

I am assuming you are using the 4 pin HEI module. Also, I believe that is a blue wire on the ballast resistor. The W terminal gets the red wire off the distributor pickup. The G terminal gets the green wire off the distributor pickup. The black/blue (Ignition power for cranking) wire and black/white (Ignition wire for running) wire will get tied together and go to coil positive and to the B terminal on the HEI. The C terminal goes to coil negative, and you keep the blue wire on coil negative for your tach signal. References:

Heavier oil = richer mixture.

It's easy to make a smoke machine, too. And a slightly nicer way to describe it...

Well, my wife's car is blocking the garage door right now, but this is what it looks like inside the garage. There's only about 3 feet between the nose of the car and the tool chest. The cut-off seems pretty good, and I've never been flashed at night when I'm running low beams. The high beams have a nice spread of light.

I think maybe one person has reached out to me concerning a bulb failure, otherwise everyone who has provided me feedback on my suggestion has been very happy with the results.

After a quick search, I'm curious if they used a plier stapler: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-308/Staplers-and-Staples/Bostitch-Industrial-Plier-Stapler?pricode=WA9514&gadtype=pla&id=H-308&ad_group_id=169835542780&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21814877952&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetOzGoheJpwHQfHqXe8QbIkot&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460nvoILBqjb3kApeJc9a0ZVcuQTu8H_xXvBRi93g54Z1csMgYPR7zYwaAl2bEALw_wcB And by plier stapler for manufacturing, I would think something like this instead: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-3068/Staplers-and-Staples/Uline-Pneumatic-Plier-Stapler?pricode=WA9511&gadtype=pla&id=H-3068&ad_group_id=169835544460&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21814877952&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetOzGoheJpwHQfHqXe8QbIkot&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460m3g8jpx9_-VCLcPqrk3kKqt0Q8lA7XYi2-rzb6VRuN02-i7uQC-MkaAvbCEALw_wcB As a tangent, I also found they have a hog ring stapler. I'm not sure if that one could be used for seats: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1481/Staplers-and-Staples/Hog-Ring-Plier-Stapler?pricode=WA9214&gadtype=pla&id=H-1481&ad_group_id=169835544220&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21814877952&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetOzGoheJpwHQfHqXe8QbIkot&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkrzPBhCqARIsAJN460kngud0nN7I1N4awAjMLqATi1EIjYgrIlHEjoJcUd58yXqsA61X26QaAoafEALw_wcB

Greg was running away from the field in the afternoon race today. Woody was keeping up with him for a couple of laps but dropped to 3rd20260426_121820.mp4

As I just explained

Conventional wisdom says that the sense wire should come from as close to the battery as possible. The image I posted has "radio" near the wiring only because Nissan was cramming the whole wiring diagram onto an 8.5x11 page. When you look at the bigger picture, you can see that the white wire branches off after the fusible link at the starter. In other words, they have it coming from close to the battery.

The Mitty at Road Atlanta