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SteveJ
Community Member
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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By the way, you can get a replacement connector from http://www.vintageconnections.com. I've purchased plenty of connectors from that site.
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Check your bulbs. You may have an 1156 bulb in the front or back right turn signal. The proper bulb is an 1157. An 1156 will cross paths between the parking lights and turn signals. Otherwise, the other circuits that you mention have the combo switch and 9 pin connector in common.
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On your FB post, you don't give the year of your car. However, armed with the fact that I now know you have a 74, I think I may be able to help you. You said you looked at the combo switch. Did you examine the 9-pin connector closely? On my 260Z, it was full of melty goodness so that it wouldn't make contact even when it was plugged together. Replacing the shell did the trick for me. That restored my parking lights. The wipers are on the same connector. Take some clear photos of that 9-pin connector, both the switch side and the dash harness side. Be sure to get all four sides and where the connectors plug together. Post the photos here so we can see if that is your problem.
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I say that you found your color right there. I think it would look right.
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It's similar to the green that was available, but the 73 green probably wasn't nearly that bright. @Pat Carr, you should get yours repainted in that shade.
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I looked at the Internet Wayback Machine version of Blue's tips. It did a pretty good job of cataloging things in the electrical section down to the wiring diagrams. I was able to pull up PDF files with no problems.
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There's usually a solution. For this problem, here is one: https://web.archive.org/web/20160324012712/http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/
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It starts with corrosion in the sockets. It ends with a meltdown of the fusebox. Been there. Done that. Got the T-shirt. I have seen the fuse fail with such a tiny break that I to magnify the image of the fuse to find it. When I replaced the fuse, the new one stayed intact long enough to heat up the fuse box to the point of melting down. First always put the year of your car in your posts. The electrical systems did change over the years. I can give better diagnostics with that info.
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The HS6 carburetor was used on B18 & B20 engines. Since this was a dual carburetor setup on the 1.8 & 2.0 L engines, I have to wonder if they can flow enough to make the car run right. If someone cannot provide you a solution that allows you to keep the current carburetors, you might want to buy some round top SU carburetors from the US.
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I've re-covered the seats in both of my Z cars. It's not that challenging. I didn't have the straps in mine, though. I didn't see a need to hire a professional.
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Make sure you get me the URL of the new site so I can link it on my blogs.
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I'm glad to hear you were able to wire the starter after the information I gave you. Of course, you have to give credit to @Patcon for tagging me in the thread, otherwise I might not have noticed it.
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I noticed that, too. The link provided in that thread redirects to https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/ Maybe the 72 510 had retractable belts and had a similar mount.
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Charles, I think that might be too low. Look at the photos in this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7800-nice-aftermarket-retractable-seat-belts-for-510s/
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I had to look it up. It's from May 17, 1995.
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Most people give those away. If the power valve is bad, I believe you have a boat anchor. Gasket kits are difficult to come by. Most people prefer the simplicity of the round top SUs. Even @Pat Carr finally gave up on them after keeping them on his car for 37 years. You would have to find someone wanting to do an absolutely perfect restoration on a 73, and even then you probably have too many zeros in your asking price. Those carburetors and the 5 MPH bumper are probably the biggest reason the 73s were not considered for the Nissan restoration/refresh program 20 years ago.
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Did they ever re-pave I-20 through Louisiana? I last went that route in 2009, and it about rattled my fillings loose in a car with a comfortable suspension. If I was driving the Z on a road in that condition, I would need a kidney transplant at the end. Alas, even if I had the funds for Austin, I would need to put that money into a rebuild on the 260Z. I hate stopping at gas stations to check the gas and fill the oil. However, the cloud behind me does deter tailgating.
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All I see on my screen is "Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah."
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Cliff, Didn't you listen to us? Sell the 280Z! https://gadsden.craigslist.org/cto/5713085960.html
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The solenoid should also be connected electrically on the positive side to the starter.
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