SteveJ

Yes, I did. Shipping info on my second order was sent to the carrier today. I expect to see it next week.

Well, I received the 1st of two orders today. I think that's about the fastest I ever received anything from them. I was disappointed that the 260Z taillight gaskets I purchased were from two different vendors and were different thicknesses and don't line up with each other.

Well, $380 for a set is well under the $1000 I paid for stainless steel bumpers about 3 years ago.

About as soon as I saw the notice, I grabbed my wallet and went through the whole catalog.

I just saw the email, too. Damn.

That is definitely a possibility. The yellow wire comes off the alternator and is spliced to go to the voltage regulator and to connector C-7 under the dash. From C-7, the yellow wire goes to Electric Fuel Pump Cut Relay #1. Conspicuously absent from this circuit is a fuse. The relays are below the dash on the passenger side near the fuse box. You can find out more about the circuit in the FSM section EF.

Your front carb was too lean as told by the spark plugs in that photo. If you got the rear to match, both carbs are too lean.

The wiring is completely different. It is documented in the FSM.

That won't work. The motor has to be running, too, as the power for the fuel pump comes off of the alternator.

October 14 & 15. Friday is track day at Road Atlanta. I'm going there to hang out & take photos. Saturday is the car show at Coolray Field in Gwinnett. That's the parking lot for the Triple-A Braves affiliate. Send me a PM if you plan on coming up.

When I drained my tank a few months back and replaced rotten fuel lines, I did not have any trouble pulling fuel through it, but the line to the mechanical pump wasn't pulled. You might try priming the fuel rail and the line going up to the mechanical pump. The electric pump doesn't run unless the key is in the ON position. It doesn't get power when cranking the engine.

I think @Zup and @S30Driver may live in Northwest Arkansas. That's a lot closer to you than most of us.

1. She Who Must Be Obeyed has a strict policy against me bringing home strays. 2. I have no place to put them, and I don't think the HOA NAZIs would be fond of them. 3. I need to focus on my 240Z.

Read up on it first. One of the things you'll need to do is see how the electric fuel pump is powered. If it is the Nissan modification, the power for the coil comes from between the voltage regulator and the alternator. People with a 1973 240Z experienced the battery draining on their cars because the coil stayed energized all of the time. I had that problem until I removed that part of the harness.

This will give you a good idea of how to get to Greg's place. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Cohutta,+GA/Lugoff,+SC+29078/@34.3087835,-83.9771355,8z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x886078136ab0abfd:0x607ffea3819d63a8!2m2!1d-84.9527235!2d34.9595209!1m5!1m1!1s0x8855f9301a989ad7:0x9aaecd3c9951c49a!2m2!1d-80.6892486!2d34.2273712 Frankly the road that cuts through Tennessee looks to be the most enjoyable route. Greg is good Z people, too. It would be worth the trip for you.

Well, you have a voltage regulator, and the alternator has stock plugs connected to it. It's probably a stock sized alternator.

I bought this one in 93, but I don't think I have any photos of it before this one taken in 2001.

And it's available. Snag it!

To which are you referring not to miss: ZNationals or your wife's birthday? Heck, combine them and treat her to Chateau Elan. http://www.chateauelan.com/ Leave her at the spa while you enjoy the car show.

That's okay. You'll feel better after you get it running right.

You look to see if the voltage regulator is missing. If you haven't already, download the 72 & 73 factory service manuals from the link in my signature. The EE section will have info on the voltage regulator. The 72 will have good information on the carburetors. You could also contact @Bruce Palmer from Ztherapy about the Just SUs video they sell.

Yes, the mechanical fuel pump is on the right side of the engine toward the front. I guess a PO fabricated that blue box as an AC compressor bracket. Rotten fuel line will let air into the system. It's good just to replace as much as you can. Verify that the electric fuel pump is running/pumping, otherwise it's just drag.The voltage regulator would normally be right where the AC compressor is. Did someone swap to an internally regulated alternator?

I was looking up the procedure for replacing the rear wheel bearings this morning. I looked at the PDF of the 74 manual, and then I looked at the 73 manual PDF. It was like night and day. As @CanTechZ said, the 73 manual PDF is a much higher resolution.

Just a couple of notes from experience: 1. Buy a non-contact infrared thermometer. Take the temperature at the thermostat housing when you think the gauge is reading high. The stock thermostat should open at 160 degrees. 2. Make sure you don't have any loose bolts on your exhaust manifold. I had a couple work loose under the rear carburetor. One of the symptoms was crappy running when the car had been sitting in traffic because the exhaust leak was right under the rear carburetor and would heat up the intake on cylinders 5 & 6.