SteveJ

Are you ready for the photo flood to start? Day 1 (or is it Day 0?) https://photos.app.goo.gl/xLN3ymszPDNSx87j6 This morning https://photos.app.goo.gl/UxdKfupPw7E6ZDyh6

Actually, you need to post a photos of the passenger side headlight out of the car (front/side/back). If it has two adjustment screws, then it's possibly one of two things: 1. Someone replaced the headlight in the past with a driver side headlight. 2. You somehow managed to mount the headlight 90 degrees out. Without being able to look closely and not knowing much about your car, I would consider #1 first. Getting back to an earlier topic in the thread, I think I found a better source for the DRLs. The washer fluid motor isn't close to the front, but you could use power from the blue/red wire, again with an inline fuse right after where you tap. That way if the fuse blows, you only lose the DRLs and you still have your wipers.

Some people got preferred paking in the hotel.

With using the coil, you must use an inline fuse, or a short will stop your car dead. I will try to find another source, but it won't be until much later today. I'm hitting the road for ZCON. As for the headlight adjustment not lining up, that should be part of the factory assembly. Please post clear photos.

Yes, I'm bad about discovering something wrong with the electrical diagrams and not telling everybody.

Look through the 74 BE section and wiring diagrams. They should be available on this site. I was helping a friend with his 73 when I realized that the wiring I saw didn't match the 73 FSM. I then compared it to the 74 FSM and found that it matched up better.

This looks promising for those of us who like to choose our own gears.

$5.98 at Home Depot. $5.60 at Lowes.

Another reason you should consider the Dawson County/Forsyth County option. There are plenty of good Z people who would be willing to lend a hand.

Check to make sure the resistor is still plugged into the tachometer circuit.

No, hence unobtainium - A substance that cannot be obtained.

Year? It helps to narrow down what I'm looking for in my collection.

Unobtainium This is about as close as you will find: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html

Another sneak peek. I'm looking forward to Tuesday.

Well, I was able to confirm what my wife noticed in the ZCON emails. John Morton won't be coming out to ZCON, though Pete Brock will be there.

So, the local Caffeine & Octane decided to feature Japanese cars among others in the main lot. (It's not unusual for 2500+ cars to show up monthly.) Several Z car owners signed up and parked in the lot. Afterward, we also did a group photo with the Z owners who stuck around.

Got it.

I thought you said it was a 72. That year doesn't have any EFI components.

The parts catalog only lists one part number for the 240Z for the headlight assembly. The same applies for all of the parts in the sub-assemblies.

Are you sure they aren't swapped around or mounted improperly?

And if you're wondering where to get a new ignition switch (back portion) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

What do you mean by "no current"? I asked you to check voltage to ground. How do you know the swapped module is good? Could you tell if the key was turning the module?

Likely suspects include the ballast resistor, tachometer, and ignition switch. This diagnosis assumes the car to be stock. Put the key in the ON position. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to ground at each terminal on the ballast resistor. If one side does not have voltage to ground, replace the ballast resistor. If neither side has voltage, the problem is with the module in the back of the ignition switch. If both sides have voltage, then lift the negative wire off of the coil. Measure voltage to ground on positive side of the coil. If you do not have voltage, the problem is the tachometer. Check to make sure the tachometer is firmly connected to the dash harness.

That's a red wire?

Green wire? That may be the EFI fusible link.