SteveJ

No excuse, @Av8ferg. I went to high school in the 80s, and I knew that one. 😉

I use the brackets for a GoPro mount

If the voltage is too low, yes, you can hurt some electronics.

Did the Haltech come with wiring instructions? If so, post them. It's hard to guess what you are trying to do. It would probably be easier for me to draw it up correctly for you. For the right price, I could even make a junction harness for you to plug in between the dash harness and ignition switch. Why hack into the wiring if you don't need to? The drawing you posted on the Pertronix has a flaw that could lead to hard starting. Having a couple of diodes in the right place would give the Pertronix the correct voltage when the car is starting without trying to power the ignition circuit.

Meh. Even I don't believe much of what I say. 😉

In the START position, the G/W wire goes through the tachometer and comes out B/W. The B/W wire goes to the positive on the coil. In the ON position, the B/W wire goes to the ballast resistor and comes out G/W. The G/W wire goes through the tachometer and comes out B/W (different B/W wire than at the switch). The B/W wire goes to the positive on the coil. The B/W wire from the ignition switch (ON position) branches off to a few different functions. The most important one is going to the fuse box. Downstream of the 20A fuse it powers the turn signals, tachometer, brake warning light, and switched source for the alternator/voltage regulator. (Note: for some of these circuits, the wire is Green, but it came from the same source.) Before the fuse box, there is also a branch off the B/W wire that is Green. It goes through an inline fuse and comes out Green. That is for the electric fuel pump. It might have been re-routed for the Nissan modification that actually installed an electric fuel pump in the North American 240Zs. (Long story...) The B/W wire also provides power for a couple of emissions related circuits, but I'm guessing you or a previous owner have defeated and/or removed most of that. For the 240Z, the black wire off the coil is grounded by the points when they collapse.

As @Captain Obvious has mentioned in the past the "fuel pressure regulator" in a stock 240Z or 260Z is the orifice on the return line of the fuel rail. The 280Z was the first with a stock FPR.

An hour isn't enough.

Yeah, it doesn't look good @inline6. I sent him a text. He wants to hold onto it.

I'll pass your name/number to Randy.

Darn it. I just sold a Bridgestone spare to Randy Jaffe a couple of months ago.

One more thing, a fuel pressure gauge could be helpful. Put it between the fuel filter and fuel rail. If your CO is high or NOx is high, you'll need to know your fuel pressure. It could be off spec.

Adjust your valves. Check your compression to make sure you don't have a weak cylinder. Ask and pay for a pretest. That way if you do not pass, it does not count against you. Then you can adjust and try another pretest. After you pass the pretest, do the regular test. If you fail the pretest, post your results. Excess HC - You aren't burning your fuel. (Ignition/timing/compression) High CO - You are running rich. High NOx - You are running lean.

Having spent plenty of time in the High Desert in the past, I'm impressed with 0.03 in June. Meanwhile I run a portacool in my garage to dehumidify it enough that I don't suffer heat stroke here.

You might want to post photos so we can see what they look like.

But it's a dry heat...

Too bad you already pulled the trigger. Nostalgic AC has a compressor with a bracket for the L series engine, and they will adapt the Z control panel to work with their controls.

That is the original anchor point. You might consider adding a small spacer (1/4 inch or so) to aid in clearing the panel.

Yeah, Randy also doubts it refers to Brock Racing Enterprises, but he might email the photo to Peter anyway.

I would doubt that BRE on that block would have anything to do with Brock Racing Enterprises. Pete disbanded BRE in 72 when he decided to get into hang gliding. The N42 block came out in the 280Z. However, to cover my bases, I did send the picture to Randy Jaffe. Considering how much of a BRE fanatic he is, he may be able to shed some light onto that.

Just a couple of words of warning, there are several components that you will need to find suitable substitutes for, such as the drier and condenser. Even if you could find a stock condenser, you'll probably be running R134A, and the stock condenser is suboptimal for that refrigerant. Also, I tried to see if I could find a way to bench test the expansion valve at the evaporator. There doesn't seem to be such a method. If the expansion valve is bad, you'll end up tearing the system apart and trying to figure out what you could do for a replacement. That's the risk of used AC systems.

I have installed a set of these bulbs in a 280ZX. The nice thing about them is that they do NOT require relays. Just pair them with some nice H4 housings, and they will work fine. On the 280ZX, we used Hella housings. I had to modify the rubber seal a little, but they worked out nicely. They are on sale at Amazon as a lightning deal for the next few hours for $40. https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Headlight-Bulbs-000LM-6500K/dp/B07TQLK6SH

Originally, it was only 1 key for ignition and door/hatch/glove box locks. However, many ignitions were worn because of the weight of the keychains, and the keys would slide in and out. I replaced my ignition switch a long time ago, so I have two keys.

Yes, that was mine, and thank you. It's easier to make good videos when you have good subject matter. Look through my channel to see videos from ZCON 2018 and ZCON 2020, too. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXsvj3EGiok2_deomAZErHg/videos As for the owner of the shop, Larry Chen of Hoonigan Autofocus did some videos of a few of Randy's cars. https://www.youtube.com/c/HooniganAutoFocus/videos

While I won't be there, I recently got to spend time with a car that will be in the hotel lobby. Break out your leisure suit, lace up your boogie shoes, and step into the time machine to relive 1980.