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Found 16 results

  1. I just bought some 280z struts that I am gonna use for a coilover conversion because I cut mine too short. I plan to clean up the rest of the assembly later, but I need to know what to do with the brakes. They have new wheel bearings/studs but the rotors are pretty rusted up since they have been sitting for a while. So I'm wondering, what is easier? Clean up rust on rotors and use new struts Swap existing "clean" rotors onto new struts If I clean off the rust, how thorough do I need to be? Is it a "shop should resurface these" thing or can I just use a wire brush and call it good? Or better yet, will the brake pads just do the work for me on the first drive? "New" Struts: My existing clean rotors:
  2. Could someone please post a pic of their 240z brake check valve? I can’t locate mine maybe it doesn’t exist My running, almost rust free 1973 240z scraed me a bit on my first drive yesterday. The brakes are horrible. Feels like when I botched a bleeding on my wife’s brakes years back. Lots of pedal effort with just gradual slowing. Applying brake while idling causes an increase in RPM. A squishing airish sound when the brakes are first applied. I was originally thinking it was definitely the booster. Then I started to wonder about the check valve. I can’t even find the check valve. I assume it’s on the vacuum line somewhere between the brake booster and the engine. Assistance would be greatly appreciated.
  3. ynot1

    squeaks

    Does anyone have a good fix for squeaky front brakes when depressed. New pads and discs were installed. 78' 280z
  4. My 240z has hard brake lines connected to the stock brake proportioning valve below the master cylinder. There is fluid seeping from around these hard lines even though the nuts on the proportioning valve are cranked down tight. I'm going to be upgrading my master cylinder to install 4 piston calipers which I've had on hand for a while and can not seem to find somewhere to purchase a new proportioning valve (which I believe is the issue). Thank you for your help and any comments or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Hello All, I have decided to upgrade the front brakes in my 11/70 240z. I ordered cross drilled/slotted rotors and the 4 piston caliper kit from MSA and before I install them I have a few questions. With the new calipers will I need to upgrade the brake master cylinder? What about the brake booster? If anyone has any experience with this, I'd greatly appreciate the input! I'm also leaving the stock drums on the rear! Chris
  6. Hello All, First off i am new to my Z, and new to the forum. Im sure my problem has been discussed previously but i am having some very odd symptoms! I bought my car maybe 2 months ago. After sitting 30 years in dry storage the whole brake system was shot. I purchased all new pads and shoes and retainers and rebuilt the calipers and the wheel cylinders, along with new flex lines. I also bought the correct master cylinder for my car, it being built in 12/1970. My problem is that even after bleeding the entire system, i cannot get pressure to the front calipers. The bleeder on the master to the rear has pressure, but the front bleeder, once opened, does not. The pedal pumps up and seems rock hard. Please I have no idea why i am not getting pressure to the front system. Oh and the reaction disk is glued to the back of the pushrod so that did not fall out of place.
  7. i just brought home a 1973 240z. i was parked outside for about 1 year. i got it to start and it runs good. now starts as soon as you turn the key. though im having some issues with a few things. the glove box is locked and i didnt get the key for it. the hatch lock wont unlock.(i broke my spare key trying to unlock it) so i need guidance opening those and making the brakes stronger.(barely any stopping power) i would like to take out the emissions control crap if i can. the dash lights do not light up. thank you in advance
  8. Hi, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post. My car is a 1976 280Z 2+2. I have removed the dashboard of my car to work on the hoses in the AC system and re-upholster the top foam. After re-installing the dashboard I have 2 problems: Headlights won't turn on. All other lights do. The brake light in the Speedometer is on and the brakes are way too low. I have reviewed the switches and the fusible links and they are all Ok. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Thanks,
  9. So basically the title says it. I got these new Brembo brakes from a corvette but its pretty big, and I need to change the rotor and brackets that holds the Brembo brakes. I have a 76' Datsun 280z. Can somebody please give me some advice/suggestions? Here is some brief information about me and my car. I'm 19 in the US Air Force and is currently doing for fun. My goal is to make this car a daily driver. This is my first project car and I'm new to this forum. Its a 76' Datsun 280z and I'm swapping it with a VQ35DE 350Z Rev-up rebuilt 06' engine with a 360Z tranny 06'. Any suggestions from you guys would be extremely helpful.
  10. I am slowly rebuilding a 1973 240z. I was getting leaking from a rear cylinder and a front caliper was not getting any fluid so I replaced both rear cylinders, new brake shoes, new front calipers and pads, and a new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder first and then bled all four brakes beginning with the right rear using a vacuum bleeder as well as the traditional buddy system. I have checked over all the lines for leaks and have found nothing. No matter what I do I can not get a good solid brake without pumping them a couple of times. When I depress the brake pedal my brake light comes on. According to the manual this could indicate a pressure differential between my front and rear brakes. I can get my rear brakes to lock up but my front brakes always feel like they are barely working. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be? At this point about the only thing I have not replaced is the master vac, the NP valve and the warning light switch. I am very frustrated at this point as I have moved a lot of brake fluid through the system, replaced a lot of parts, bought a fancy vacuum bleeder that I am not impressed with and still don't have good brakes. I have taken the time to read many, many posts here. I have found some excellent advice but nothing that matches this problem. I am rebuilding this with my son for him to drive and I won't let him move it until I am positive he has great brakes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. hello, this is my first post here, as i just bought my 1974 260z! i looked on this forum and others for an answer to this and have decided to join this forum as it seems to be a bit more mature than some others. anyway.... i'm not new to cars, but am new to this Z, so i figure i would ask before diving buying parts. symptoms; 1 car revs to about 3k rpm when not moving and brake pedal is depressed. 2 no power brakes(barely stops) if this was a car i was more familiar with, i would guess compromised diaphragm in brake booster. thoughts? thanks in advance -the wombat
  12. I have a '77 280z, previously the car sat around for about two years without being moved or started. I got it running again about three months ago with a couple fixes and got the brake fluid flushed in the process. About two weeks ago the brakes ceases up on me when I was driving around. It happened pretty slowly, it wasn't an abrupt stop. A couple days ago I replaced the calipers and pads in hopes that would fix it. Now I'm getting almost no pressure at all. There are no leaks in the lines that I can tell. Did I mess something up or am I missing something?
  13. 1970 240Z Front brakes are good no air in the system (toyota 4piston). Back: Nissan Maxima disk. Had to rebuild driver side rear due to leak. Went to bleed get no pressure to both rear calipers and not much flow. When cracking the rear bleeder, the brake pedel does not go to the floor it stays the same. When Bleeding the front it does go to the floor. Got some people helping me out and this is what we think might be going on. 1. porportioning valve locked out the rear when it was leeking. I have opened the electrical part on the top to get a look at the valve. Not sure what way it should be, at this point the small diameter part is at the firewall and the larger is just in view at the front. 2. Front part of the master cyl not working (1980 280zx master) on the 280zx it is opposite the original 1970 master cyl. So the front feeds the rear brakes. Tryed to bleed the front to push the valve back in place. Did't work. Could have hydralic lock working against the rear keeping the fluid locked out of the rear. I don't have the diagram of the distribution valve to see how the lock out part works. All my books in storage. At this point I only have front brakes. Anybody run into this before? Need some help/suggestions.
  14. Can you use an aftermarket rotor such as the vented, slotted and cross drilled rotors of r1 concepts that are made for the stock 240-280z calipers with the S12, S12W or later 86-88 S12+8 Toyota calipers without using the rotor spacer? I am trying to save the $100-150 cost of the spacer. Thanks, John
  15. I went through my brakes, put on new rotors and pads, new back brakes, wheel clylinders, stainless braided lines, cleaned out the old nasty fluid from all the lines and put in DOT 5 fluid. what happens now is that the brakes will function great, good pedal for a indeterminate amount of times and then they will go to the floor and the brake warning light comes on! Sometimes it will be one good pedal and maybe the next time it will be 6 times and they always pump up fine. I'm stumped!
  16. If have a '77 280z coupe and recently had a complete re-work of the brakes. While they are functional - - - they scream loud enough to hear them in Chattanooge from Atlanta. They used to use the old asbesots pads but we don't do that anymore. Does anyone have recommendations for a braked pad for my car that is quiet?
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