Jeff Berk

I went ahead and ordered the OEM bushings from Tasca Parts (thanks Zed Head). I decided that unless there is an issue with the rear alignment, there is no need to use the adjustable bushings. The PO likely installed them to keep with his attempt to install every known modification at that time. Thank you all.

I think you figured it out. Back in the early 80's, the owner did a major resto modification. Triple Webers, 280z crate engine, 5-speed, Sumitomo MK63 brakes, yada yada yada... Unfortunately, between owners, the Webers got stripped off. The bushings do have a hex shaped flange and appears to be an aluminum alloy. If I'm correct about the age of the aftermarket bushing, maybe the bushings are ready to be changed out. If I do change them out. Should I replace them with identical, adjustable bushings or the OEM ones. I'm not sure about how to approach alignments since I'm only familiar with doing the front wheels. I'm guessing I can find someone that can do a real alignment.

I took the bracket off to inspect the bushing. So that's not an issue. The bushing is rubbing metal on metal on the bracket. Is that correct? Z car depot shows a rubber part.

Z Car Depot shows a bushing (parts 63 and 64). The photograph of these parts appear to show them as rubber. Looking at my 260Z I think I'm missing them. If so, that may explain all the noise I'm getting from back there.

I set up an order for a door just to see what was involved and the part was FOB Shanghai so I guess the shipping and logistics are up to the person placing the order. That and the Independence Day Tax will likely significantly increase the cost.

I've got a zip tie there as well. A Z specialist in my area put it on when he did some work on my car and I meant to ask him why, now I know.

Thank Jim, That should fix the problem. Jeff

I recently have an issue crop up with the car not returning to idle after I let up on the gas unless I tap the gas pedal a few times. I traced it to the front carburetor. The return spring attached to the heat shield is present but maybe I have it's attached to the wrong hole on the carburetor linkage or maybe something is missing. I've attached two photos. the close up one shows where there appears to be a mounting hole on the linkage possibly for a spring (note black arrow). If I reset this lever position manually, the front carburetor returns to idle.

It looks like there are two different filters sizes depending on the carburetor. You might try Z Car Depot. Early 1973 (2.36" Tall Housing) K&N E-2910 Air Filter Nissan OEM 16546E3210 Late 1973 (2.00" Shorter Housing) K&N E-2900 Air Filter Nissan OEM 16546-N3310

You might be right. I can mail it to you if you want to give it a try. I wasn't going to charge you for it other than shipping.

I thought I found it but I couldn't get it to fit on a counter shaft I had in my bin so I have my doubts.

Are you still looking for this? I just noticed this request and I might have one in a bin.

Nevermind

I just finished installing the molding after 4 attempts. It looks like all 4 corners fit properly. I just need to find out where I put the two corner and junction trim pieces. Once again, the molding came from Z Car Depot.

Got it... Thanks. I had the glass out while we were painting the car and I'm at the point where I need to put it back together.

Thank you. From the photos it looks like the molded bend is at the bottom and the stretched bend is at the top. But I could be wrong.

I might be late to the show but If its available, I could use the two seals 80935-E4101 Window crank and handle seating (79-038) I can send you a shipping label if you can give me the size and weight of the package or if it fits inside a post office padded envelope. Jeff

I went to install the stainless steel trim around the window first but I need some reminding. The rubber seal has two distinct molded corners. Do the corners go at the top or bottom of the hatch?

I was looking into doing this as well but does bundling plug wires result in cross-talk between wires.

I just received my gasket for my 260z from Z-Car Depot today. Its marked as being from General Parts in Thailand. I'm maybe a week away from installing it and will post how well it fits.

Is there any reason why the door card could be either thicker or warped? I had to extend my splined regulator shaft because I replaced the vinyl with leather making it slightly thicker.

Has any of you seen examples of an entire Z body from China being transplanted onto a rusted out Z?

I watched this video and was going to post it here and Zed Head beat me to it. The catalog ZH posted only shows a small number of the parts and unfortunately don't list as fitting the 260z's. I like the fact that the narrator apparently owns a 240z so he focused in on them being made.

Maybe you can wait out the zstore. https://www.thezstore.com/product/195/aluminum-rear-brake-drum-70-78-240z-260z-280z

To answer your question about mixing parts between 4 and 5-speed transmissions, the parts with the same part numbers are interchangeable. That said, mixing used parts from different transmissions is less than ideal. Parts will wear in differently and can result in more backlash and noise. I rebuilt a 5 using some parts from a 4 and it worked fine but I couldn't tolerate the noise in all but 4th gear. I ended up having a local mechanic who specializes in old Zs rebuild one of my 5-speed transmissions. What part of the country are you located in?