Jeff Berk

Before you give up and buy a replacement, you might try to clean it. Often times the problem is due to a bad capacitor or transistor but if it is just gunked up like mine, contact cleaner might free up the mechanism. I think I used contact cleaner like CAIG Laboratories D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT Contact Cleaner to remove the gunk. Something every Z owner should have on their shelf. If you get it moving, use a tiny amount of clock lubricant on the contact points using a needle applicator. Using household oil or too much oil will just gum it up. If you have nothing to lose, why not try and get the clock working before you give up.

FYI: I misunderstood the OP. From the photograph I thought the discussion was about the glove box but regardless, the plastic piano hinge I mentioned will likely work.

Sorry for the delay, I had to dig into a box in the garage. It looks like I purchased 1588A733. If anyone would like to give it a try, I have 38 inches of this left. I needed less than a foot at $3.81 per foot, but the minimum purchase was four feet. I selected polyolefin but its available in four or five materials including carbon fiber. I'm happy to provide my left over material for the cost of postage. If you'd include the $3.81 per foot that would be appreciated but not mandatory since its been sitting around for maybe 6 years now. Jeff

I ended up using one of these https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hinges/plastic-piano-hinges-without-holes~~/?s=plastic+henge

I had the same issue on my '74. I replaced several melted connectors, removed the wire harnesses (dash and cabin), and then rewrapped them after adding a larger ground wire. You'll find that a lot of ground wires in the harnesses connect into a single wire of the same gage. As contacts become corroded, the resistance builds up and eventually one or more of the ground wires overheat. I also switched to LEDs and relays for high load circuits where possible to reduce the load. I'm currently adding a grounding strap between the engine and frame after melting another ground wire. I've come to the conclusion that a lot of my electrical issues are related to bad grounds. PS, invest in a tube (or tub) of dielectric grease. PSS, Also, get some contact cleaner https://www.acehardware.com/departments/home-and-decor/cleaning-and-disinfectants/specialty-cleaners/80745?store=12080&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155431095&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJEFdtA4A_aB9bwsPhN-f2YXn&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3YvXBhCDARIsAKB-ox-O6GYnXYg-JSmsM8d83TAQFY4gi9A5KtU8s6Kqy2i2ehieeI2J30IaAkIoEALw_wcB

Thanks for checking. I'll just keep my eyes out for one.

Ohio permits historic license plates through 1974 to be used on classic cars with the stipulation that the plate's year must match the model year of the car. Ever since I obtained a 1973 license plate with "D 260Z" I've been looking for a similar 1974 plate for my 1974 260Z so I could register it in Ohio and mount it on the back of my Z. I ran across someone at a car show with a fake vanity plate that he was able to get away with registering. It was manufactured by some company in FL that looked identical to the real state plate but I don't want to go that route. Today I got a notification that ebay had a posting for a 1974 plate "Z 1975 P". So close but not quite there. I'll keep looking.

I called MSD tech support and if I understood them correctly, I need 2.0 ohms. With the Mallory coil being 0.6 ohms, I need 1.4 ohms of resistance. The stock ballast resistor is 1.3 ohms so I think I'm close enough if my stock resistor is still in specs.

Sorry to have to revive this discussion but I have some additional information regarding the second ballast. While searching for an answer to another question, I stumbled upon the source of the second ballast resistor and now wonder if I actually need to add one back in. This figure appeared in https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/MalloryDist.htm It shows a second resistor supplied by Mallory, I'm assuming their part No. 8214. I have an e-mail to Holley's technical support so hopefully they will get back to me. Does anyone have a UniLite and Promaster Coil setup in their car and if so are they using two ballast resistors. Note that my car has been running fine without the second resistor but I don't know if I'm causing a potential problem with perhaps supplying too much voltage to the ignition module or whatever.

I went ahead and ordered the OEM bushings from Tasca Parts (thanks Zed Head). I decided that unless there is an issue with the rear alignment, there is no need to use the adjustable bushings. The PO likely installed them to keep with his attempt to install every known modification at that time. Thank you all.

I think you figured it out. Back in the early 80's, the owner did a major resto modification. Triple Webers, 280z crate engine, 5-speed, Sumitomo MK63 brakes, yada yada yada... Unfortunately, between owners, the Webers got stripped off. The bushings do have a hex shaped flange and appears to be an aluminum alloy. If I'm correct about the age of the aftermarket bushing, maybe the bushings are ready to be changed out. If I do change them out. Should I replace them with identical, adjustable bushings or the OEM ones. I'm not sure about how to approach alignments since I'm only familiar with doing the front wheels. I'm guessing I can find someone that can do a real alignment.

I took the bracket off to inspect the bushing. So that's not an issue. The bushing is rubbing metal on metal on the bracket. Is that correct? Z car depot shows a rubber part.

Z Car Depot shows a bushing (parts 63 and 64). The photograph of these parts appear to show them as rubber. Looking at my 260Z I think I'm missing them. If so, that may explain all the noise I'm getting from back there.

I set up an order for a door just to see what was involved and the part was FOB Shanghai so I guess the shipping and logistics are up to the person placing the order. That and the Independence Day Tax will likely significantly increase the cost.

I've got a zip tie there as well. A Z specialist in my area put it on when he did some work on my car and I meant to ask him why, now I know.

Thank Jim, That should fix the problem. Jeff

I recently have an issue crop up with the car not returning to idle after I let up on the gas unless I tap the gas pedal a few times. I traced it to the front carburetor. The return spring attached to the heat shield is present but maybe I have it's attached to the wrong hole on the carburetor linkage or maybe something is missing. I've attached two photos. the close up one shows where there appears to be a mounting hole on the linkage possibly for a spring (note black arrow). If I reset this lever position manually, the front carburetor returns to idle.

It looks like there are two different filters sizes depending on the carburetor. You might try Z Car Depot. Early 1973 (2.36" Tall Housing) K&N E-2910 Air Filter Nissan OEM 16546E3210 Late 1973 (2.00" Shorter Housing) K&N E-2900 Air Filter Nissan OEM 16546-N3310

You might be right. I can mail it to you if you want to give it a try. I wasn't going to charge you for it other than shipping.

I thought I found it but I couldn't get it to fit on a counter shaft I had in my bin so I have my doubts.

Are you still looking for this? I just noticed this request and I might have one in a bin.

Nevermind

I just finished installing the molding after 4 attempts. It looks like all 4 corners fit properly. I just need to find out where I put the two corner and junction trim pieces. Once again, the molding came from Z Car Depot.

Got it... Thanks. I had the glass out while we were painting the car and I'm at the point where I need to put it back together.

Thank you. From the photos it looks like the molded bend is at the bottom and the stretched bend is at the top. But I could be wrong.