Ed

My Z, before I took her apart:cry: would handle like it was on rails. Wet or Dry. I would seriously have to push her real hard to break traction. Then is was usually the front that would push. My tires are Yokohama 215/60 14 rear and 195/60 14 front.

You must remember the car is 30 years old and anything that is made of rubber that has not been replaced within the last 5 years will probably need to be replaced and I mean EVERYTHING. The gas tank is another place you should pay attention to. I don't know of any tricks to see if it's full of rust or what. Check out the brakes too. If the body looks like it's in good shape and not all banged up. And the interior is all there then go for it. It's hard to find a Z that doesn't require some work. But most importatant is you've got to have a solid body to start with. While you do the engine, work on the suspension, tires and brakes. The interior and paint can wait. First make the car safe to drive then work on her looks. Most important of all is have fun!

WOW!!! That's one good looking paint job!!! Is that the Persimon 110? How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? :love:

If your car is sliding around on wet roads you could try a few things. First make sure you are not braking in a turn. Have the allignment checked to make sure everything is rolling properly. Next check your tire pressure. Try around 30psi to start with and see how that feels. Have you had your car lowered? Stiffer suspension won't handle real well on wet roads. Besides that maybe you could try something I learned up here in snow country, throw a couple of sand bags in the back orf your car for extra weight.

Awsome!! I love it when those guys at the "back" gets up front. Now if Mark can finish.:classic:

Hang in there!

I'm having a mental block right now so someone help me. Dero behind the timing cover there is a shaft that goes from the crankshaft to the distributor. On the lower end is a gear with teeth and on the other end is a flat screw driver looking tooth that turns the distributor. Make sure that this shaft is properly set. One tooth off in either direction will produce the symptoms you are describing.

Like 2many said, Make sure the car is worth fixin before you buy it. Check her out especially the floor pans. If you have some rust already I guarantee you will find more. Z's are fairly easy to work on and most parts are still available. But do remember that All Z's are 20-30 years old. They will require a steady budget to keep her running. I'm not trying to discourage you just make sure you know what your getting.

It would really help us if you could pin point where the sound is coming from. It might be a bearing but unless you can pin point it who knows which one. Take a long screw driver phillips or flat tip it doesn't matter the longer the better. Place the tip of the screw driver against a stable piece of metal close to a bearing while the engine is running (watch out for that fan!) put it as close to the bearing as you can. Check the alternator, water pump, air pump & A/C. Next put your ear against the handle of the screw driver and listen. Move the screw driver around to different parts and listen. Basically you are using the screw driver like a stethascope. Eventually you will find where the whine is coming from.

I like HOT ROD. They usually have a lot of decent articles. I always wonder though if a Zed has a V-8 is it considered a hot rod? Or is that name reserved for American cars only?

One less ZX on the road = One more powerplant & 5 speed donor for our Z's.:classic:

What about a little bit of Nitrous?

This is another pic of the box that shows the engine.

This is one of those plastic models. 1:25 scale.

Kind of hard to tell. Have you had any work done on the engine prior to this? If it does it four times a second it sounds like it might be your cam scraping metal off on the rocker. Your cam oiler might have broken or come loose thus not providing oil to the cam. Pull the valve cover and do an inspection on the cam lobes and rocker pads. Turn the engine by hand and use a flash light to really check it out. Also check for anything that doesn't look like the others.

The best thing I could tell you to do is get a shop manual. Hayes, Chilton or other. They break it down for you pretty good and the manual is worth it's weight in gold.

I've got a bridge that's for sale. It's in New York city. bridge

Your talking about the thing that has two notches on it. First notch is to hold the door open halfway and the second notch is to hold the door open all the way? If so what's it doing? Is it pushing against the little wheel? Is the little wheel turning? Does it feel like it's really hard to open the door or does the door open & close without any resistance? How does everything else look? Does the door latch properly and does everything line-up?

Not to mention slow. I ordered a bunch of parts two weeks ago. I guess it's all on backorder.

If I remember correctly MSA has the spring compressor. I also remember it wasn't cheap. You might be able to get away using a large screwdriver, using the cam as a lever push the valve spring down far enough to put the rocker back on. First make sure you turn down the bolt used to adjust the gap. It's the one on the passenger side that has a bald round head. A 17mm wrench will loosen the lock nut and a 14mm will turn down the bolt. Also make sure you lash pad is still in place. From there you will need your manual to properly adjust all your valve clearances.

I have taken the glove box out before when I was replacing the clock. Talk about a pain in the a**. I was just hoping to avoid damaging it more. I guess I'll try with out removing it first.

In Wick Humble's book on "How to Restore your Datsun" on page 74 he says the first thing is to remove the glove box. Is this procedure necessary to remove the dash? I already have the wire harness that goes to the engine & rear of the car out. Also the heater controls and the A/C. I think I'm almost ready to try and remove the dash when I noticed this in the book.

Mike, when you buy the extraction tool buy the biggest one that will fit. What I mean is lets say the bolt is 6 mm wide. Don't drill it with a 1/8 drill bit and use a tiny little extraction tool. Use a drill bit almost the same diameter as the bolt, this way you can use an extractor that is as big as possible.

On some of the factory sound deadaning(sp) material on the inside I've noticed that after I tap it with a hammer a few times it detaches from the body, thus making it come off in large pieces. I actually found this out when I was banging away at the floor boards in an effort to try and straighten them.

Atleast it all matches.